FW Pump Runs Continously

Windjammer

Well-Known Member
Nov 10, 2007
727
Acworth, GA
Boat Info
340 Sundancer 2006
Engines
8.1 Mercruiser V-Drives
Was in the engine compartment yesterday just having a look. Heard something running and it was the fresh water pump. I checked all the faucets for leaks/drips, etc, and did not see anything.
Since plumbing is not my Forte, should I pull this thing and see if it can be repaired, or just replace (since it's original).
It's a Shurflo model 39010216. Is there anything "better" out there to use as a replacement?
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I would check every place that gets water -- besides just the faucets -- like the transom shower, hot water heater etc. Also at the main water distribution manifold right after the pump. It's likely that the pump is running because it's leaking somewhere.
 
If there are no leaks then it is probably just the pressure switch is not shutting the pump off. Could be a broken return spring. No need to replace the whole pump. You can buy just a pressure switch if you can't get that one working.
 
Clean the screen on the pump as well, that was the source once for me. You can blow compressed air thru as well while you have the line disconnected, that was the source for me once as well, compressed air unclogged it.
 
Was in the engine compartment yesterday just having a look. Heard something running and it was the fresh water pump. I checked all the faucets for leaks/drips, etc, and did not see anything.
Since plumbing is not my Forte, should I pull this thing and see if it can be repaired, or just replace (since it's original).
It's a Shurflo model 39010216. Is there anything "better" out there to use as a replacement?
View attachment 144390View attachment 144390
9 out of 10 times it’s the pressure switch …… you can buy a new ps but I would replace I am very disappointed with shuflo

this is what I did

http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/shurflo-vrs-seaflo.112824/
 
While on thread, my pumpcomes on for a second or two about every 30 seconds. is there some kind of back flush preventer that is weak and letting lines lose pressure? There are no leaks for sure, I’m thinking its back leaking into tank thru pump.
 
While on thread, my pumpcomes on for a second or two about every 30 seconds. is there some kind of back flush preventer that is weak and letting lines lose pressure? There are no leaks for sure, I’m thinking its back leaking into tank thru pump.
The pump itself is the backflow preventer. Since you don't have a leak, your pump probably has a dirty/failing check valve. Assuming it's a Seaflo/Shureflo pump, they're easy to open. Finding replacement parts might be the worst part of the job.
 
Check valve, thats the word i was looking for.
It really doesn’t bother me. But if it gets to be top of my boat repair list I’ll just get a new pump. Thanks.
I really miss an accumulator tank that smooths out the pulsing. But SR in their design wisdom on a 250 mounted the pump inches in front of the bulkhead that goes into aft cabin to the interior faucets. So without redoing all the plumbing in the bilge, there is no room to fit an accumulator tank between pump and bulkhead.
Ya I know. First world problems.
 
Check valve, thats the word i was looking for.
It really doesn’t bother me. But if it gets to be top of my boat repair list I’ll just get a new pump. Thanks.
I really miss an accumulator tank that smooths out the pulsing. But SR in their design wisdom on a 250 mounted the pump inches in front of the bulkhead that goes into aft cabin to the interior faucets. So without redoing all the plumbing in the bilge, there is no room to fit an accumulator tank between pump and bulkhead.
Ya I know. First world problems.
If you have a shore water connection, take a look at the check valve there. I was chasing the same thing at the end of last season. Mine seem to "just go away."
 
I really miss an accumulator tank that smooths out the pulsing.
Same here. Here's a pump that adjusts its speed based on demand, so it doesn't need an accumulator! I put one in my RV, and it works great. The only thing I haven't found out is if it's ignition proof, so that'd need to be verified before dropping into the bilge.
 

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