Fuel/water separator filter

[f4rioboy]

Hi all,
I went to buy some supplies for my winter maintenance routine and a fella in the shop said that one should change out fuel/water separator filter in the spring and not during winterization process. The rational is that you may trap moisture in the filter over the winter.

I would appreciate you thoughts on this. Thanks.

2005 180 Sport (4 cylinder, 135 HP, Alpha 1)

 

[Sea Gull]

I have always changed mine in the fall along with changing the oil and the oil filters, and on-engine fuel filters. The only thing I wait to change in the spring are the filters in the fresh water system and, if needed, the black water holding tank filter.

 

[mooredriven]

I've changed mine in the fall as well, but the rationale to wait until spring makes more sense. I use my boat year around, therefore I typically change it when I change the oil.

 

[Sundancer]

I guess I should replace the 7 year old filter ehh? I have an 8 year old spare sitting in the engine compartment and it would be nice to regain that space!

 

[sbw1]

I do them all in the fall.

 

[Asureyez]

I can't think of even one good reason the leave an old fuel filter on a boat over a freezing winter.

 

[Presentation]

I can't think of even one good reason the leave an old fuel filter on a boat over a freezing winter.

The only reasoning I can think if would be condensation. If you change the filter then not run the engine the filter would be full of air. That being said, the condensation would be very small, like a drop.

I change mine when I change the oil at the end of the season.

Spring is for cleaning / waxing / re-loading everything.

 

[Dave M.]

If you change the filter then not run the engine the filter would be full of air.

Do people really do that? I have always considered running the engine after changing oil and filters as part of the process. If you are going to change the oil so you don't have old oil contaminants trying to corrode your engine over the winter, then it seems to me you need to run it. At least start it and see the oil pressure gauge come up, preferably let it warm up a bit.

But if there is a good reason not to do this, I would like to know. It wouldn't be the first time I was wrong about something.

 

[osd9]

I would never change any filter (oil, fuel, water, air, etc) and then not run the engine or excersise the system. If for nothing else, to make sure everything still works and that there are no leaks around any of the seals.

 

[Dave M.]

I guess I should replace the 7 year old filter ehh? I have an 8 year old spare sitting in the engine compartment and it would be nice to regain that space!

If it has worked fine for seven years, then I think it has proven itself to be reliable. I'd use the spare for target practice and forget about it!

But if you disregard my advice, I am for changing the fuel/water filter in the fall with everything else.

 

[aprilfools63]

During winterization I fill a new fuel/water separator with following mixture:

Fogging Mixture
Mix the following in a gas can:
½ gallon gasoline
7 oz Quicksilver Premium Plus 2 Cycle TC-W3 Outboard Oil
1 oz Fuel Stabilizer
3 oz Fuel Injector Cleaner

Then, I run the engines to lubricate the internal parts. This is done because it is difficult, if not impossible, to fog an MPI engine. You could use the old filter, but I figure that a $12 investment in a new filter will probably not break me when a contaminated filter could cause more serious problem$.

 

[Sundancer]

If it has worked fine for seven years, then I think it has proven itself to be reliable. I'd use the spare for target practice and forget about it!

But if you disregard my advice, I am for changing the fuel/water filter in the fall with everything else.

I keep thinking I'll change it. I just realized I'd been overlooking it every year. Now I'm afraid if I change it, I'll disturb the crap in the filter and it will all rush to the engine! :-( I'll put that on my to do list for this weekend. I've been tripping on the old filter all these years, I might as well spin it on. Wait, I've winterized and I don't want to restart the engine. I guess I'll have to do it in the spring now. Make that an 8 year old filter now! Come to think of it, it seemed like I'd lost a little power this last year...... No I don't want to hear that the filter might be plugged!! I keep thinking the local dealer is replacing it, and they think I'm replacing it. No wonder!!

 

[wish2fish]

During winterization I fill a new fuel/water separator with following mixture:

Fogging Mixture
Mix the following in a gas can:
½ gallon gasoline
7 oz Quicksilver Premium Plus 2 Cycle TC-W3 Outboard Oil
1 oz Fuel Stabilizer
3 oz Fuel Injector Cleaner

Then, I run the engines to lubricate the internal parts. This is done because it is difficult, if not impossible, to fog an MPI engine. You could use the old filter, but I figure that a $12 investment in a new filter will probably not break me when a contaminated filter could cause more serious problem$.

Harold,
where did you get this fogging formula? If I cut down the recommendation in my manual the 2 cycle is close but it would only call for 1/2 oz of stablizer. There is no mention of fuel system cleaner in my manuals fogging mixture but I usually run a double concentrated injector cleaner in the first tank of the spring.

 

[sbw1]

My operating manual says to run the engine after filter changes and check for leaks.

 

[aprilfools63]

Wish2Fish,

I was given the fuel/water separator mixture from a master mechanic at my marina. Could you post your mixture / procedure? In the mean time, I will submit a question to Mercury Marine to find out their recommendations.

sbw1,

Agree, after changing the fuel/water separator, I flush the engines which means running them, which also flushes the mixture through the system.

Question:
Does anyone know about the "ethanol -STA-BIL" mixture that is being sold now? What is the difference with this product verses the standard fuel stabilizer. Is this needed if the fuel mixture already has the enzyme fuel treatment in it?

Here is the description from West Marine:

"New, concentrated formula designed to fight the damaging effects of Ethanol"
· Improves engine performance year-round — not just for seasonal storage
· Double the corrosion protection; Plus five times the cleaning power for your fuel system

 

[Sundancer]

[/COLOR][/SIZE]
· Improves engine performance year-round — not just for seasonal storage
· Double the corrosion protection; Plus five times the cleaning power for your fuel system

Improves engine performance? Sure it does, by not letting the gas go stale. But put it into fresh fuel and then measure or see an improvement difference? I doubt it.

And five times the cleaning power? As opposed to what? How could you prove these claims anyway? If they put in one drop per hundred gallons and now they increased that to 5 drops that would constitute a fives time increase in cleaning power! Somewhere there is a person with an engine that was miraculously cured and that person swears by it now. I put it in just to keep the fuel from getting stale and I think the rest is just marketing hype. It's probably just Sta-bil anyway!

 

[wish2fish]

Harold,
Here is how is reads in my 2003 Merc 5.0 MPI.

1. In 23 liter (6 gal) remote fuel tank mix:
a. 19 liter (5 gal) regular unleaded 87 octane gasoline
b. 1.89 liter (2 quarts) Premium Plus 2-ccyle TC-W3 Outboard Oil
c. 150 ml (5 oz) Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer or 30 ml (1oz) Fuel-System
Treatment and Stabilizer concentrate

2. Allow engine to cool down
3. Close the fuel shut-off valve, if equipped. Disconnect and plug the fuel inlet fitting if
not equipped with fuel shut-off valve.
4. Connectet the remote fuel tank (with fogging mixture) to the fuel inlet fitting.
5. Start and operate engine at 1300 rpm for 5 minutes.
6. After specified operating time is completed, slowly return throttle to idle rpm and shut
off engine.
7. Remove and discard the water separating fuel filter
8. Install new filter.

 

[aprilfools63]

Wish2Fish

Here is the response that I got back from Mercury Marine:\

Good Morning. Here are the instructions on how to prepare fuel system for
extended storage.

+ allow engine to cool down

+ remove the water separating fuel filter

+ pour out a small amount of fuel into a suitable container, then add
approximately 2 fluid ounces of Quicksilver 2-cycle Outboard oil to fuel in
the water separating fuel filter.

+ reinstall water separating fuel filter

+ disconnect harness connections from fuel pump and fuel boost pump

+ start and operate engine at idle speed until the water separating
fuel filter and fuel injection system are empty and engine stops.

+ remove and discard water separating fuel filter

+ install new water separating fuel filter

+ reconnect harness connections at both fuel pumps


Best regards,

Rocky W. Stebens
Consumer Service Specialist
MerCruiser Customer Service

 

[flash gordon]

hello, new to this, where are water fuel separator on 1987 340 SD?? i have looked every where??

thanks gordo,,,,,,,,

 

[Nehalennia]

I'm resurrecting an old thread rather than start another with the same title. Anyway yesterday I changed the oil and Water/Fuel separator. I did not put fuel in the new Water/Fuel separator when I installed it and it wouldn't start. I knew I should have done it, but in my haste, forgot. It was too late last night when I realized this to go restart the engine in the driveway. So this AM I removed the Water/Fuel separator and filled it with fuel and reinstalled. Vrooom!

Video here: