Fuel tank level for winterization??

Liquid Pleasure II

Liquid Pleasure II

New Member
Oct 19, 2009
83
Lenexa, KS
Boat Info
340 Dancer 2003
260 Dancer 2001
Engines
Twin 496-mags, v-drive
I hear all kinds of thoughts on tank levels before closing the boat for winter....90% full; 100% full; 10% full????

Does anyone have a SOLID answer to this question before I shut her down for the winter?

FYI..I have a 340 DA with twin 496 V-drives and she will stay in the slip with 2 agitators in the slip to prevent any ice buildup. Also, Kansas gets pretty cold in the winter with about 20" of snow on average.

Thanks!
 
I too vote for 75-90%....I also swear by the Sta-tron fuel stabilizer (light blue bottle)
 
Your service manual has the most accurate information for YOUR boat... DO NOT use the owners manual as that is generic and not as specific for your boat... You can either download or purchase a manual for your boat. It is highly recommended to do so...

My service manual recommends that I leave the fuel tank dry or as low as possible. That I also drain the engine raw water and pull the blue plugs plus keep air pressure on the engine during storage. (I have the air system).

But.... It also states to not seal off the tank vent but I do that anyway since the lack of fuel in there is not sufficient to cause expansion/contraction problems (Your car gas tank is sealed...)... But I feel sealing it reduces the amount of water vapor over the winter to collect...

Stabil does not affect E-10 fuel...
 
I have an aux. fuel pump system I made. When I detach the fuel lines to replace the in-line fuel filter, I connect in and pump the tank 99% dry, then install new filter. I then add enough Marine Stabil to the tank for a full tank. Fill it in the spring & good to go. I also store inside a heated warehouse:thumbsup:, so the diffential on the tank temp is minimial.

To build a pump - Buy a high flow/drag motor fuel pump @ Napa or the like - mounted mine on a board. Napa has the fuel connection fitting to go from a threaded connection to barb 3/8". Buy a section of fuel line and you are set. Note: This is gasoline and can & will explode. Keep the fuel pump and 12 V connection OUTSIDE the boat and bilge. Hopefully, you are low on fuel and can pump into a nearby car. I pull my empty GMC along side the boat and pump out the 25-30 gallons easily. You also can be nice and offer some to the neighbors too....:smt001

tginz
 
It really depends on local conditions and the type of fuel you use. Find out what is easy and works where you boat. We add Stabil and then fill the tanks full with non e10 fuel. I run the boat over to the marina from our dock which probably burns 15 gallons of fuel. The boat is then immediately pulled and put into a heated building. We have never had a problem with this approach. We've done pretty much the same thing even when we've stored in a cold building and not had any issues. Some of the extra things people do to prevent problems go over the top in my view. Keep it simple if you can.
 
sbw1 said:
Some of the extra things people do to prevent problems go over the top in my view. Keep it simple if you can.
Click to expand...

:thumbsup:

I like the fuel pump idea though, but not to winterize. I would like it to fill my dingy (and generator :wow:) motor when I go on trips, I hate storing gas cans on the boat.
 
I would not recommend the fuel pump system I described for use underway or at a dock/mooring. Unhooking the in-line filter causes a spill of fuel into the bilge. Connecting the fuel pump may cause a little more. Liquid gasoline & associated vapor in the bilge is extremely dangerous. This coupled with connecting a fuel pump and moving fuel......I wouldn't do it all within the bilge.

I do it on the trailer in open air and with the pump and electrical connection on the ground away from the boat by running the line through the bilge plug hole. Futhermore, I can on the trailer wipe up or rinse out any fuel spill.

Now, you might be able to rig up a Y value on your fuel line like older boats used with dual tanks and safely mount a pump with an explosion proof electrical connection.

Bottom line, just be extremely careful when dealing with gasoline.


When purchasing a fuel pump make sure it is a racing or drag application. They are designed to pump 50+/- gal/hr if necessary. It eliminates endless pumping.

tginz
 
Go Aweigh2452 said:
There is NO cure for E-10 separation.
Click to expand...

No, but you can prevent phase separation from happening.

Personally, even with E10, I keep the tanks full. But, I also treat year round with a stabilizer than has the E10-fighting stuff in it (Startron). I have yet to have any fuel issues and have never had to replace a fuel filter during the season.

However, my personal opinion aside, if someone is looking for a recommendation on what to do - then Doug's advice of following your engine's service manual is the most sound.

I am curious to see what happens with the manufacturer's recommendations over the next few years. I wonder if, as they continually test E10 (on their own), they will eventually recommend keeping the tanks full as long as an appropriate E10 stabilizer is used. It usually takes manufacturers like Mercury a bit of time to change their minds on things:smt101
 
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