Fly65
New Member
Has anyone changed a mechanical fuel pump to an electric? 454 cu in with carbs . How big a job to do this?
Bt Doctur
Well-Known Member
Fairly simple job. remove the mech pump and get a blockoff plate. use the blockoff plate bolts to support the bracket for the elec pump.
Get a tubing bender, some steel brake line tubing, a double flaring kit, tubing cutter and flat file
To correctly install it you need the pressure switch T`d into the oil pressure sender. A second wire from the small lug on the starter solenoid to the pressure switch. the small lug opposite the small lug with the yellow/red wire on it.
Get a tubing bender, some steel brake line tubing, a double flaring kit, tubing cutter and flat file
To correctly install it you need the pressure switch T`d into the oil pressure sender. A second wire from the small lug on the starter solenoid to the pressure switch. the small lug opposite the small lug with the yellow/red wire on it.
PlayDate
Well-Known Member
I've done this on numerous boats including my own. It is the next best thing to Turn Key Starting that you can buy. I did a few more things that made it a more complicated install. I used the opportunity to replace the all the original fuel lines with the latest USCG approved technology. I also put in a Flo-Scan monitoring system. Additionally, I installed two "Prime" rocker switches at the helm that operate can momentarily switch the fuel pumps on.
Fuel Pumps: Holley Marine Red- Summit Racing(2)
Oil Pressure Switch: Holley- Summit Racing(2)
Two momentary Rocker Switches- West Marine(2)
Wire and Crimping Tools
I mounted the pumps on the stringers so that I had easy access. That is important because on my boat I have gone through several sets over the years (it is good to have a spare). The holley pumps have a fuel vapor vent that needs to be run to the spark arrestor. One thing to note is that vent is on only one side of the pump.....in relation to the In/Out ports one pump can be installed normally but the other will need to be rotated and spaced off the mounting surface for the vent.
I ran the wires from the respective ignition switches since I was also installing prime switches as well. The prime switches main purpose is to fill the fuel bowls and charge the lines if a boat has been sitting for a while.
The fuel pumps, prime switches and the Flo-Scan are great adds.
John
Fuel Pumps: Holley Marine Red- Summit Racing(2)
Oil Pressure Switch: Holley- Summit Racing(2)
Two momentary Rocker Switches- West Marine(2)
Wire and Crimping Tools
I mounted the pumps on the stringers so that I had easy access. That is important because on my boat I have gone through several sets over the years (it is good to have a spare). The holley pumps have a fuel vapor vent that needs to be run to the spark arrestor. One thing to note is that vent is on only one side of the pump.....in relation to the In/Out ports one pump can be installed normally but the other will need to be rotated and spaced off the mounting surface for the vent.
I ran the wires from the respective ignition switches since I was also installing prime switches as well. The prime switches main purpose is to fill the fuel bowls and charge the lines if a boat has been sitting for a while.
The fuel pumps, prime switches and the Flo-Scan are great adds.
John
scoflaw
Well-Known Member
- Aug 10, 2011
- 6,395
- Boat Info
- 1999 Powerquest legend 260 sx 502 mag
2005 Baja 242 islander 496
- Engines
- 502 mpi Bravo 1
496 mag B1
Why do they fail so often?
PlayDate
Well-Known Member
I believe the first couple of sets died due to ethanol. Holley's first theory was the ethanol was eating the fuel lines and debris locked up the pumps (which was why I upgraded the fuel lines). When I pulled them apart, there was white corrosion inside the pump indicating the presence of water but no signs of rubber or goo. Holley replaced them for free. The latest set has lasted for 4 years so Holley may have solved the problem.
John
John