Fresh Water tubing size

dsteele1

New Member
Apr 27, 2008
325
San Diego
Boat Info
Previous: 260 Sundancer 2006
Engines
350 MAG MPI Mercruiser w/Bravo III Drive
I was wondering if anyone knows exactly what size (1/2"I.D. or 15mm I.D.) the hot and cold fresh water tubing is on my boat? Is the tubing made by Sea Tech or Whale?

P1010157.jpg


I'm having water leaking trouble on the fittings at the water heater near the crimped on fitting area. :wow: :smt021 I'm thinking of replacing them with Sea Tech connectors:

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|106370|316448|315123|751689&id=762020

Any help would be appreciated... :grin:
 
My fittings have "15mm" molded into them. (actually inside the fitting). But they are not the crimped type hoses. Maybe you can check inside the fittings for any markings.

Did your hoses come labeled or is that your handywork? Nice.
 
The tubing on my 2002 280DA is 15mm. I ordered replacement fittings and hose from West Marine and it looked exactly like the original tubing and fittings that came from the factory.
 
A 2006 is 15mm If you decide to change over to Sea Tech fittings, be sure to get a good tubing cutter for clean and square cuts. A utility knife won't do.
 
Go to the local hardware store and pick up stainless steel cladded line pre made lenghts better and cheaper (made for sinks and toilets)
 
My fittings have "15mm" molded into them. (actually inside the fitting). But they are not the crimped type hoses. Maybe you can check inside the fittings for any markings.

Did your hoses come labeled or is that your handywork? Nice.

Can't take credit for that - Sea Ray did do that right... :thumbsup: :grin:
 
If you want to use Brass barbed fittings in place of the existing fittings, here is what you need. (A Half Inch is 12.7MM but these worked fine.)

DSC06361.jpg


In case anyone wants to look at a posting where I discussed my problems with these factory fittings and how I replaced them with the Brass ones, here is the link to that as well.

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6463&highlight=barb

And here is a picture of my conversion.

DSC03774.jpg
 
I believe the color tubing is metric ( 15mm ).....the older models used the gray tubing thats 1/2".

From my research I found out Sea Tech makes colored tubing in red and blue in both 1/2" and 15mm ID tubing www.seatechinc.com They also make fittings in inch and metric sizes. The tubing on my boat now is Whale-X 15mm tubing. I called Sea Tech CS and confirmed that their fitting will fit my Whale-X 15mm tubing.
 
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If you want to use Brass barbed fittings in place of the existing fittings, here is what you need. (A Half Inch is 12.7MM but these worked fine.)

Dave, I just picked up two of those exact fittings ( and S.S. hose clamps) at Home Deposit for the heater hose connections only just before I read your post. Great minds do think alike... I am going to get some of the Sea Tech fittings and try them out elsewhere to see how they work. The female brass 1/2 NPT to 1/2 Hose Barb fittings are tapered threads mating to the existing straight thread plastic fittings and may be a problem although the teflon tape will probably prevent any leaking. The hose barb also reduces the I.D. of the fresh water system but probably doesn't affect flow rate too much??? The Sea Tech fittings do not reduce the I.D. as they fit over the tubing, are made for 15mm tubing and they have straight female threads - so no teflon tape or hose clamps needed. And they cost about the same as the brass fittings and ss hose clamps. I'll let you know how they work out...

These didn't work out... tubing is NOT 15mm, it's 1/2" I.D. Parts maunual says that manifold fittings are 1/2" NPT (National Pipe Tapered) so NPT brass fittings you used are perfect. I will be using plastic 1/2" adapters x hose barb and SS clamps for my setup. Everyone of my original crap fittings is leaking now! :smt021 :smt021 Who makes those crimped on fittings???? :smt013:smt013 Absolute garbage!:smt021:smt021:smt021:smt021
 
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I was wondering if anyone knows exactly what size (1/2"I.D. or 15mm I.D.) the hot and cold fresh water tubing is on my boat? Is the tubing made by Sea Tech or Whale?

P1010157.jpg


I'm having water leaking trouble on the fittings at the water heater near the crimped on fitting area. :wow: :smt021 I'm thinking of replacing them with Sea Tech connectors:

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|106370|316448|315123|751689&id=762020

Any help would be appreciated... :grin:

those fittings will not work on your flexible hoses.
 
Don,

With respect....That's an effin mess. A manifold would make it a lot neater and easier to service.
 
A 2006 is 15mm If you decide to change over to Sea Tech fittings, be sure to get a good tubing cutter for clean and square cuts. A utility knife won't do.

It's not 15mm.... I bought 15mm Sea tech fittings - they are WAY to small - tubing would not even begin to enter the fittings... decided to order a whole bunch of 1/2" NPT polypro x 1/2" Hose barb fittings and 1/2" FPT pvc couplings with all SS hose clamps.
 
I had to do the water heater connections with the 1/2" barbed fittings and double clamped. I was in the bilge and sneezed both of them started leaking.:smt013
 
Don,

With respect....That's an effin mess. A manifold would make it a lot neater and easier to service.

I agree with that. Has anyone considered making (or has actually made) a manifold out of PVC parts? Would that be "legal" according to the regs (both CG and ABYC)? Sure seems like it would be a lot easier to deal with if there were a 12-18 inch long manifold with the connections spread out a little bit. I bypassed the HWH by looping one of those hoses when I winterized. I am planning on having to replace that hose in the spring. It really didn't want to bend. It had memorized the shape that it was in, and put up quite a fight when I made the loop. There will be pressure on those connectiona all winter.
 
I made a copper manifold using standard plumbing parts with threaded fittings for the air compressor in my garage. I don't see why the same parts could not be configured to work with the Sea Ray water system. Since this manifold would be on the potable water system and isolated, there should not be any corrosion issues and would be more durable than PVC.

Henry
 
I had to do the water heater connections with the 1/2" barbed fittings and double clamped. I was in the bilge and sneezed both of them started leaking.:smt013

Hey Brent!

Have to replace nearly all of my original crimped connectors as they are all leaking to some degree...:smt013:wow::smt021
 
Hey Brent!

Have to replace nearly all of my original crimped connectors as they are all leaking to some degree...:smt013:wow::smt021
Welcome to the club. :smt043:smt043

Now when you get around to it remove the transom shower and do that one too. I had to do mine.

Has anyone considered making (or has actually made) a manifold out of PVC parts?

I considered doing that too but the tubing is so hard (not flexible) that you may have other problems. I found the existing manifold easier to work with and it doesn't leak either.
 
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Welcome to the club. :smt043:smt043

Now when you get around to it remove the transom shower and do that one too. I had to do mine.



I considered doing that too but the tubing is so hard (not flexible) that you may have other problems. I found the existing manifold easier to work with and it doesn't leak either.

How about the fresh water washdown spigot connector and the fresh water hose inlet connector? Those are going to be fun!!!! :wow: Have you done those also?

I hope I'll have enough hose length left after cutting off the crimped on connectors - cutting them off cuts about 2" off the hose length and Sea Ray made the hose lengths pretty exact - no room for error. I can always make two new manifolds (hot and cold sides) out of 1/2" NPT tee's and 1/2" NPT couplings if I need to. :smt009 :smt013
 

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