Forward Bilge Switch always illuminated

[SeaGreg]

I noticed today that the FWD bilge switch is always illuminated and appears engaged on the control panel. It does not matter whether or not the rocker switch is "on" or "off", it is always illuminated even when the solenoids ore not engaged. The FWD bilge pump has not worked since i purchased the boat and is need of replacement. I am wondering if it burnt out as a result of this issue at the switch. Any ideas what could be the issue?

 

[HUMPH]

Either you have water in the bilge that is raising your level switch or the level switch crapped the bed. If you knew the pump didn't work, would you not replace it immediately?

 

[skolbe]

I had that happen with my float switch. Float switch is either bad or has something stuck in it.

 

[Alex F]

It could also be as simple as while jumping off a big wave, the float switch just got stock and needs a bit of cleaning (not necessarely in need of replacement).

 

[SeaGreg]

Thanks for the replies. When the boat was surveyed before purchase it was noted that the bilge pump was inoperable as the surveyor manually attempted to activate the pump. The reason we have not replaced it yet is because the boat is on a lift and we are still fixing much larger items. I will check the float switch today and see if it is stuck in the up position, despite not activating the pump, hoping that will disengage the illumination on the dash.

 

[CliffA]

The reason we have not replaced it yet is because the boat is on a lift and we are still fixing much larger items.

I would move replacing the bilge pump to the top of the list of repairs before the boat hits the water.....not many more important items on a boat than properly working bilge pumps IMHO....

cliff

 

[SeaGreg]

I would move replacing the bilge pump to the top of the list of repairs before the boat hits the water.....not many more important items on a boat than properly working bilge pumps IMHO....

cliff

Yes Cliff, we have the pump (rule 2000) and will replace it as soon as the boat is ready to hit the water. We have one operational bilge pump aft. There is an issue with the packing of the port side rudder and it is allowing a good amount of water to permeate into the bilge. Once this is repaired, the engines run and a handle of other items are repaired, we will replace the pump, clean up the bilge and get to finally start using the boat!


Yes Cliff, we will for sure, already have the pump (Rule 2000), just haven't been able to "hit the water" and have been relying on the aft blige pump . I also have an issue with the packing on the Port rudder which once is mitigated we will install the new bilge pumps. We are essentially performing an extensive "refit" on the boat, replacing most systems and cosmetic components. It has been two months now and are finally starting to see a light at the end of the tunnel.

 

[CliffA]

Yes Cliff, we have the pump (rule 2000) and will replace it as soon as the boat is ready to hit the water. We have one operational bilge pump aft. There is an issue with the packing of the port side rudder and it is allowing a good amount of water to permeate into the bilge. Once this is repaired, the engines run and a handle of other items are repaired, we will replace the pump, clean up the bilge and get to finally start using the boat!


Yes Cliff, we will for sure, already have the pump (Rule 2000), just haven't been able to "hit the water" and have been relying on the aft blige pump . I also have an issue with the packing on the Port rudder which once is mitigated we will install the new bilge pumps. We are essentially performing an extensive "refit" on the boat, replacing most systems and cosmetic components. It has been two months now and are finally starting to see a light at the end of the tunnel.

sounds good....good luck with the rennovations...one of my winter projects is to replace both bilge pumps in my ER...I am going to use an electrical switch instead of a float switch to activate the pumps..it is much more reliable and very easy to install...just use a plastic tie to attach it to the pump...here is a link in case you are interested...

https://www.waterwitchinc.com/new/SiteElements/Pages/SecondaryPages/Products/BilgeSwitches.html

https://www.waterwitchinc.com/

 

[Alex F]

Just make sure it doesn't drain your batteries. If the switch is stuck and the pump is engaged, it doesn't matter if there's water or not, it'll just keep running.

 

[CliffA]

Just make sure it doesn't drain your batteries. If the switch is stuck and the pump is engaged, it doesn't matter if there's water or not, it'll just keep running.

that is one advantage of an electrical swith....no float to get stuck or clogged.....

cliff

 

[Alex F]

that is one advantage of an electrical swith....no float to get stuck or clogged.....

cliff

AS far as I know, depending on the models of course, but on mine, it's like a 3-way switch. Since the pump has constant feed from the batteries, the light is telling you that the pump is running, even having the switch in the OFF position. The switch at the helm is only in case if you wish to manually engage the pump. But, if the float switch triggered it, the helm switch wont stop the pump from running.

 

[SeaGreg]

As I was in the bilge yesterday replacing the underwater lights I decided to remove the failed forward bilge pump. I was surprised to find that it was scolding hot to the touch, not sure if this was correlated without the light being illuminated on dash or if this was an isolated issue. I disconnected the pump and the light is still illuminated, perhaps it is a float switch issue at this point (float switch is still connected to wiring).

I am upgrading to the automatic pump and I see it has three wires. I just watched a video on youtube that explains that you need to add an extra switch for the automatic pump, which I already have. Is there a thread on there with photos and instructions for for a pump upgrade? Will I need to disconnect the battery or power source to perform this replacement?

 

[jason78]

As I was in the bilge yesterday replacing the underwater lights I decided to remove the failed forward bilge pump. I was surprised to find that it was scolding hot to the touch, not sure if this was correlated without the light being illuminated on dash or if this was an isolated issue. I disconnected the pump and the light is still illuminated, perhaps it is a float switch issue at this point (float switch is still connected to wiring).

I am upgrading to the automatic pump and I see it has three wires. I just watched a video on youtube that explains that you need to add an extra switch for the automatic pump, which I already have. Is there a thread on there with photos and instructions for for a pump upgrade? Will I need to disconnect the battery or power source to perform this replacement?

The float switch probably got stuck up causing the pump to run until it burned up. If the float switch is on, the helm light will still be on regardless of whether the pump is connected or not since the float switch controls the ON/OFF of the circuit. As other have said, you need to replace, or at the very least, clean the float switch.

 

[Bt Doctur]

If you have 3 wires coming from the pump ,you already have a built in float switch.
If you have : a brown wire(switched 12v), a brown with a stripe(automatic float switch lead)and a white (ground)

 

[MancaveII]

As I was in the bilge yesterday replacing the underwater lights I decided to remove the failed forward bilge pump. I was surprised to find that it was scolding hot to the touch, not sure if this was correlated without the light being illuminated on dash or if this was an isolated issue. I disconnected the pump and the light is still illuminated, perhaps it is a float switch issue at this point (float switch is still connected to wiring).

I am upgrading to the automatic pump and I see it has three wires. I just watched a video on youtube that explains that you need to add an extra switch for the automatic pump, which I already have. Is there a thread on there with photos and instructions for for a pump upgrade? Will I need to disconnect the battery or power source to perform this replacement?

Make sure your anti siphon valve or back flow valve (whatever they are called) works if you get an automatic pump. I did that on my shower (forward) sump pump and the water in the line would just flow back into the box, bilget kicks on to push water out, bilge kicks off, water flows back from line, bilge kicks on...and at some point you burn up a pump, drain a battery, or wake up in the middle of the night on the boat wondering where that noise is coming from every two minutes