fogging their engine

derek4343

derek4343

New Member
Jul 4, 2008
45
gunpowder cove,chesapeake bay
Boat Info
240 sundeck,wake tower
Engines
5.0,w/bravo 3 drives
has anyone fogged their engine . i need to fog mine and need to know what fittings to use to hook up a remote gas tank with the 2 stroke in it. i have an 09 5.0 merc in board.
 
There are a number of threads on this topic. Is it fuel injected or a carb? Instead of a remote tank with mix you could mix the 2 stroke oil in a small gas can and fill a new water separating fuel filter with the mix. Then just run that for a minute.
 
I started a thread on this. The answer I got was remove fuel water seperator dump fuel, add 2 oz of 2 stroke oil and an oz of fuel treatment. Reinstall and start the engine. Have sumone stay with throttle controls because it will want to stall. Hole at 1300rpm till smoke comes out. Shut down remove and discard old seperator and install new one. Change plugs and your ready found next summer.
 
derek4343 said:
has anyone fogged their engine . i need to fog mine and need to know what fittings to use to hook up a remote gas tank with the 2 stroke in it. i have an 09 5.0 merc in board.
Click to expand...

blaster said:
There are a number of threads on this topic. Is it fuel injected or a carb? Instead of a remote tank with mix you could mix the 2 stroke oil in a small gas can and fill a new water separating fuel filter with the mix. Then just run that for a minute.
Click to expand...

He'll have an MPI motor (standard on his boat). I believe his fuel/water separator is also different - it should be the Gen III model. However, the idea is basically the same. Pull out the canister-style filter (you need to at least check this filter every year, anyways), add 2oz's 2-cycle and 1-oz stabilizer to the container, reinstall the filter and run for 5-minutes at 1,300 RPMs. 1-minute isn't long enough.

If you did want to go the remote tank route, I do recall seeing some posts about using the remote tank and the fittings they used. I don't remember who it was, but maybe you could find it with a search.

Just a thought... You could install a 3-way fuel valve. Terminate the "T" side with an outboard motor fitting and then all you'd have to do is "click" to an outboard tank and turn the valve. It'd be a little more time and money now, but a lot easier in the future. You'll still need to know your current fitting size - but you could just remove it and then take it to a plumbing supply house. Yours may be different (Merc makes changes over the years), but there may be a close-nipple that is used (and easily removed) to connect the fuel supply line to the Gen III module.
 
Last edited:
Xplicitlnck said:
I started a thread on this. The answer I got was remove fuel water seperator dump fuel, add 2 oz of 2 stroke oil and an oz of fuel treatment. Reinstall and start the engine. Have sumone stay with throttle controls because it will want to stall. Hole at 1300rpm till smoke comes out. Shut down remove and discard old seperator and install new one. Change plugs and your ready found next summer.
Click to expand...

Darn it, you guys type too fast! :smt001

He likely won't notice any smoke (you have to look REALLY close). Do the 5-minute thing.
 
thanks to all. i do have the mpi. my marina guy said they like the remote tank way. i need to find out what fitting it is and make up that little manifold so i can easily do it year after year.
 
so i'm looking for the fuel module to hook too?
Lazy Daze said:
He'll have an MPI motor (standard on his boat). I believe his fuel/water separator is also different - it should be the Gen III model. However, the idea is basically the same. Pull out the canister-style filter (you need to at least check this filter every year, anyways), add 2oz's 2-cycle and 1-oz stabilizer to the container, reinstall the filter and run for 5-minutes at 1,300 RPMs. 1-minute isn't long enough.

If you did want to go the remote tank route, I do recall seeing some posts about using the remote tank and the fittings they used. I don't remember who it was, but maybe you could find it with a search.

Just a thought... You could install a 3-way fuel valve. Terminate the "T" side with an outboard motor fitting and then all you'd have to do is "click" to an outboard tank and turn the valve. It'd be a little more time and money now, but a lot easier in the future. You'll still need to know your current fitting size - but you could just remove it and then take it to a plumbing supply house. Yours may be different (Merc makes changes over the years), but there may be a close-nipple that is used (and easily removed) to connect the fuel supply line to the Gen III module.
Click to expand...
 
The fuel module "contains" your filter (and fuel pumps). It's an odd-shaped, black box on the bottom, starboard, front corner of the engine. Just follow the fuel line from the tank - you'll see it.
 
Would that also b the reason why my spark plugs looked like hell when I pulled them after fogging? They had a rust colored blister lolooking burn to them. I'll find out about the injectors and sensors in the spring if she didn't flood in the storm
 
thanks to all. i did manage to get the correct fittings from a pipe and hose fitting supply house named Flowline. all went well and i feel much better doing it myself. all of the maintence that is. now to next question. how many people shrink wrap versus a blue tarp?
 
My first year with fuel injection. No spin on filter...just the stupid Cool Fuel 3 box. I guess I'll be dumping 2 cycle into the black box housing??
 
rondds said:
My first year with fuel injection. No spin on filter...just the stupid Cool Fuel 3 box. I guess I'll be dumping 2 cycle into the black box housing??
Click to expand...

You got it, Doc. Other than accessing the three screws on top of the black box, it's pretty simple. Just do as I outlilned in post #4 and you're good. The black box's screws DO NOT need to be totally removed (10mm hex head, maybe? - I forget - haven't started doing winterizations, yet!). A 1/4" drive socket wrench works well since it gets into tighter areas. Then use the handle on the lid to remove it (it fits somewhat tightly, FYI).
 
Thanks Dennis
I've been told to bring a turkey baster to suck out some gas to allow space for the oil. Also told to remove what's left in there after fogging is complete rather than run it all out in the spring.
 
I've never found the need for a turkey baster, but sure - can't hurt to bring it.

I don't think it's necessary to remove anything. We do about 450 winterizations during the months of Sept and Oct and, including me, no one removes the fuel and we've never had a call back in the spring. Most (if not all) of what is in the box will be straight gas by the time you're done. Even if there is some left, it won't be ANYWHERE near enough to cause any problems. Heck, even if there was a decent amount left it would still be OK.
 
The less gadgets I need of fiddle with the better. Thanks Dennis.
 
rondds said:
The less gadgets I need of fiddle with the better. Thanks Dennis.
Click to expand...

I agree. Sometimes I think we (myself included) put to much "theorizing" into things, rather than reality. Good luck, Ron. Bring a 1/4" universal joint, a 4"-6" extension and also a box end wrench. With those, you should be good to go in regards to accessibility.

Does your fuel box have two blue plugs on it to drain the water? If not, there's a larger, single bolt on the backside that can be loosened to slightly back out the two cooling hoses.
 
I don't have blue plugs. The blue plugs would mean CF4, right?
Dennis...while I have you, any worth to the idea of removing the CF boxes and having the inside sandblasted to remove all the paint? Is that even feasible?
 
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