Flush Engine AND Outdrive on a lift without muffs

Morpheus

New Member
May 7, 2007
2,450
Odessa, FL
Boat Info
2006 SeaRay Sundeck 240
Engines
5.0MPI Mercruiser w/ Bravo III
Ok I've been part of many threads and either the answer doesn't exist or the answer is just not clear to me :huh:

I want something that I can add to my boat that will let me flush not only the engine but the outdrive as well without using the muff's. As an added bonus I'd like to be able to flush it with a salt preventative.

The boat right now is kept on a lift. After I lift it out of the water I'd like to be able to hook up the host and either flush with or without running the engine but not only flush the engine also flush the outdrive. The only thing I've see is to flush the engine only.

:smt100
 
Why don't you want to use muffs? You'd need to run the engine, but that would indeed flush both the motor and outdrive. You could also use Salt Away (or a similar product) with the muffs. Are you an anti-muffite or something?
 
Why don't you want to use muffs? You'd need to run the engine, but that would indeed flush both the motor and outdrive. You could also use Salt Away (or a similar product) with the muffs. Are you an anti-muffite or something?

Well I've not yet mastered the art of walking on water :grin:

The boat is on a lift, the dock does not go around the lift there for I can not reach the outdrive to put the muff's on.

This is why I'm looking for another way to flush both the engine and outdrive from inside the boat.
 
Well, I suppose that's a fair answer! I guess you either need to start praying a lot or find a way to reach down there from your swim platform.

No personal knowledge of this product, but take a look at this link and click on the I/O section. They seem to suggest that the outdrive can be flushed as well: http://www.yachtsofstuff.com/userPostings.asp?xID=yachtsofstuff&cexs=mtg

Yup been looking at that.

Someone pointed out though the water pressure to the engine side of that set of valves from the hose could damage the engine by causing it to ingest water where it's not suppose to be.
 
Morpheus,I was thinking about the water pressure issue... Most marina's will have in excess of 40 psi of pressure, but you really only need around 15-20 psi to get the job done. Just tone the pressure down some. If you are really concerned you could get a water pressure guage with a hose adapter to make sure things are right ($20-$40). http://www.professionalequipment.com/product_images/W132_product.jpg
 
Morpheus,I was thinking about the water pressure issue... Most marina's will have in excess of 40 psi of pressure, but you really only need around 15-20 psi to get the job done. Just tone the pressure down some. If you are really concerned you could get a water pressure guage with a hose adapter to make sure things are right ($20-$40). http://www.professionalequipment.com/product_images/W132_product.jpg

So at 15-20PSI there should be a problem.

I guess to avoid all risk all together I could use the winterizing part they advertise and a bucket and have the impeller suck water out of the bucket and use the hose to keep the bucket full enough not to run the engine dry. They I could also through some salt prevetative in the bucket as well so it runs through the engine.
 
20-25 PSI is usually the WOT number, but at idle it can be as low as 8 PSI. I spotted the information from a service bulletin for a Mercruiser overheat issue. But to be sure, you can just send an email to Mercruiser (be sure to have your engine serial number) and ask them specifically. I usually get a response back in 24-36 hours.
 
wow! that's exactly the gizmo i made myself for my crownline back in 2003. you have to tap into the raw water intake line and place that baby in place. it works great! that boat ( it was a 2002 ) had a 350 mag horizon and it would collapse the hose if i didnt keep the pressure up (at idle). if you're uncertain of the adequate pressure, start with the valve (at the spigot on the dock) on low and see if the hose collapses, then just open the valve a bit until the walls of the hose remain slightly compressable. i wouldnt worry too much about pressure b/c water cant really work it's way past the impeller - but to be safe, when flushing i always shut the water supply OFF prior to shutting the engine off.

this also works great come winteriztion time. after running pink thru the engine, you shut the valve that heads towards the engine, leave the other one open and pour pink into the garden hose connection until it pours out of the drive. and you're done.

i used a pvc T but the concept is the same.
 
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