Fitting a trailer to Sundance 268
- Thread starter Don Tyson
- Start date
mstang64bb
Member
- Jan 3, 2013
- 186
- Boat Info
- 1988 Sea Ray 268 Sundancer
- Engines
- 454 w/ bravo II drive
I can't say much about "adapting" a trailer. But when we bought our 268 I didn't want to risk that much weight behind me with a questionable trailer. We purchased a new Venture bunk trailer for $4000.00. I use it to store the boat on during the winter months in my yard and trailer it yearly to the shore. The ramp we use is deep enough that the boat will float on and off the trailer with little effort.
Just my 2 cents....
Just my 2 cents....
Mike sandor
Active Member
- Jul 28, 2017
- 175
- Boat Info
- 2007 320 Sundancer
Twin 496. Bravo 3
2018 3500 Chevy, Loadmaster trailer
Raymarine Axiom, Quantum 2
- Engines
- 496 Mercruiser/Bravo III drives
For my previous boat, 260 Sundancer, I bought a used bunk trailer. I had to adjust the position of the bunks and the winch/bow roller, but other than that it worked out fine. You make have to adjust the width of the bunks to align properly with the strakes. Make sure your weight rating is adequate. You don’t want the stern hanging past the bunks. I made these adjustments at the ramp, took a few attempts but it worked out. Just don’t do it during a busy time at the ramp!
Regarding a roller trailer, lots of debates on that subject. My opinion with a 260, you are getting heavy and all the weight is directly on the rollers. That direct point of contact is a concern where as the bunks distribute the weight more evenly. I especially liked that additional support area for the long winter storage. Loading is not as easy with a bunk so you have to pay attention to the landing. You are not going to budge the boat with the winch once loaded. Some folks spray the bunks with lubricant, I believe there are roller assemblies that can be added along side the bunks to make the boat slide easier. I also prefer electric brakes. Go slow, slow, slow while backing her in. Depending on the landing, the weight of that boat, along with a slippery landing, you may get a free truck washing. Did I say go slow??
Regarding a roller trailer, lots of debates on that subject. My opinion with a 260, you are getting heavy and all the weight is directly on the rollers. That direct point of contact is a concern where as the bunks distribute the weight more evenly. I especially liked that additional support area for the long winter storage. Loading is not as easy with a bunk so you have to pay attention to the landing. You are not going to budge the boat with the winch once loaded. Some folks spray the bunks with lubricant, I believe there are roller assemblies that can be added along side the bunks to make the boat slide easier. I also prefer electric brakes. Go slow, slow, slow while backing her in. Depending on the landing, the weight of that boat, along with a slippery landing, you may get a free truck washing. Did I say go slow??
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There is no reason a bunk trailer nor a roller trailer can't be used on that hull. I would only caution against a cheapie roller trailer where there aren't many rollers. But a proper roller trailer will have no affect on a Sea Ray hull.
As far as "hard or complex" is concerned - really, that all comes down to your skill set, knowledge and the time you want to put into it. Of course, you need to make sure the rest of the trailer is sound before even considering it... frame, crossmembers, brakes/braking system, bearings, etc.
Same goes for which one you'd be "happier" with. It's all a personal preference. Although, the ramps you typically use can be, at least in part, a determining factor.
As far as "hard or complex" is concerned - really, that all comes down to your skill set, knowledge and the time you want to put into it. Of course, you need to make sure the rest of the trailer is sound before even considering it... frame, crossmembers, brakes/braking system, bearings, etc.
Same goes for which one you'd be "happier" with. It's all a personal preference. Although, the ramps you typically use can be, at least in part, a determining factor.
mstang64bb
Member
- Jan 3, 2013
- 186
- Boat Info
- 1988 Sea Ray 268 Sundancer
- Engines
- 454 w/ bravo II drive
Well said Mike. Go slow!. Additionally, if you trailer your boat you will want to be sure that your exhaust shutter flappers are in working order. Otherwise a back flow of water can happen when launching and will hydro-lock an engine quickly. Also, there are Teflon runners that can be added to the bunks for slid-ability.
As long as your trailer is not custom built to a certain boat moving the bunks to accommodate your boat's hull shouldn't be a problem. You can find different length bunk support online. Personally I always thought that a bunk trailer provide more support for heavier boats because they run across all the bulk heads in the hull rather then the roller which may not be directly under them.
I had a bunk trailer for my old 25’ sailboat. It was a venture and very flexible and simple. But the old sailboat was only 2500lbs.
I don’t in principle agree with the concept of rollers. In a hard breaking situation it would seem that the trailer mast would bear all the stress.
Is the bunk style trailer what I see beeing called a drive on trailer? I sometimes see vehicle white guideposts. Are they structural and capable of leaning the boat against or are they just visual guides. With my old Carolina Skiff 238 dlv I just would drive the boat on and it would go right to the mast very accurately. I might add that I did so very slowly, verrrry slowly.
I don’t in principle agree with the concept of rollers. In a hard breaking situation it would seem that the trailer mast would bear all the stress.
Is the bunk style trailer what I see beeing called a drive on trailer? I sometimes see vehicle white guideposts. Are they structural and capable of leaning the boat against or are they just visual guides. With my old Carolina Skiff 238 dlv I just would drive the boat on and it would go right to the mast very accurately. I might add that I did so very slowly, verrrry slowly.
I understand the sentiments regarding physics... roller trailers vs momentum of stopping. But don't let emotions/thoughts overshadow reality. I'm a life-long boater - lot's of boats/family members - and have worked in the marine industry for 30 years. There is nothing to worry about regarding trailering. Boats bigger than yours sit on rollers. Arguments can be made one way or the other as to what is better, but it's all personal opinions. The one thing that comes into play, though, is the depth of ramps and whether you're allowed to power load. Also, whether you will have a manual or powered winch.
Moral of my story... don't base your decision on trailering and hull support or what we might "think"/"feels" best. Reality and experience tells us otherwise. Both styles of trailers can do equally well. The differences one way or the other are so minute that it doesn't really matter.
A bunk trailer will allow the boat to sit a little lower, though, so there is a slight advantage to having a lower center of gravity for trailering. And bunk trailers will have lower maintenance.
My 260DA was originally on a roller trailer. Personally, though, I prefer bunk trailers for their simplicity and, generally, easier loading, so I converted my roller to a bunk. But that's a personal preference. I have a roller under my Grady and it's just fine, too. Grady, like Sea Ray, is a top notch builder - the Grady has ALWAYS sat on a roller trailer and there are ZERO hull issues from the rollers. Where that boat is used, I can't fully power load and the ramp is too steep for that, anyways. I have a power winch on that trailer.
Those white, PVS load guides... under normal loading speeds, yes, you can bump against them and they'll be just fine. The better the trailer is fit to the boat, the less those guide poles will needed, though. However, in windy/high current situations, they can be very handy to have.
Flappers are in your exhaust pipes. You should be fine as long as you back into the water slowly in a relatively calm area.
Moral of my story... don't base your decision on trailering and hull support or what we might "think"/"feels" best. Reality and experience tells us otherwise. Both styles of trailers can do equally well. The differences one way or the other are so minute that it doesn't really matter.
A bunk trailer will allow the boat to sit a little lower, though, so there is a slight advantage to having a lower center of gravity for trailering. And bunk trailers will have lower maintenance.
My 260DA was originally on a roller trailer. Personally, though, I prefer bunk trailers for their simplicity and, generally, easier loading, so I converted my roller to a bunk. But that's a personal preference. I have a roller under my Grady and it's just fine, too. Grady, like Sea Ray, is a top notch builder - the Grady has ALWAYS sat on a roller trailer and there are ZERO hull issues from the rollers. Where that boat is used, I can't fully power load and the ramp is too steep for that, anyways. I have a power winch on that trailer.
Those white, PVS load guides... under normal loading speeds, yes, you can bump against them and they'll be just fine. The better the trailer is fit to the boat, the less those guide poles will needed, though. However, in windy/high current situations, they can be very handy to have.
Flappers are in your exhaust pipes. You should be fine as long as you back into the water slowly in a relatively calm area.
At the exhaust flaps inspect able or does one need to remove stuff to get at it ? Where are the flaps precisely.
On a normal ramp are the flaps even an issue.
I’ve been on some very steep ramps in my time but never worried as I didn’t have a stern drive ( all new to me).
I am willing to learn and take advise and I appreciate input.
On a normal ramp are the flaps even an issue.
I’ve been on some very steep ramps in my time but never worried as I didn’t have a stern drive ( all new to me).
I am willing to learn and take advise and I appreciate input.
mstang64bb
Member
- Jan 3, 2013
- 186
- Boat Info
- 1988 Sea Ray 268 Sundancer
- Engines
- 454 w/ bravo II drive
Flappers are down where the exhaust enters the drive. You would need to remove the two screw clamps and exhaust hose. The flapper sits on the outdrive exhaust tube. See red arrow..
