First DIESEL Fill Up ?

JC3

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Oct 6, 2006
1,336
Kentucky
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Alright Guys, Will be Filling my Tanks on the 19th. What all goes in with the diesel that will keep my system flowing. Thanks Guys as ALWAYS, JC
 
JC:

I am by no means an expert, heck, I don't have ANY experience filling a diesel boat yet. However, I spoke with the CAT representative, I've read all the posts here at CSR and have had some back-room emails. I'll share with you my plan:

First tank of the season I added the "Shock" concentrate of a good diesel Biocide. I chose Racor Biocide. Read the directions on the back of the jug to determine the amount you need to add.

I will replace both Primary and Secondary fuel filters half way through the 2nd tank of the season.

All subsequent tanks, at the the fuel dock and before refilling, I will add the correct amount of "Maintenance" concetrate of Biocide for the amount of fuel I estimate to fill the tanks.

At all fuel stops, I will also add Power Services Diesel Kleen (Silver Jug) to each tank in the 6 Cetane boost concentrate.

This is just my own personal plan, and it comes with ZERO real world experience. YMMD.....good luck...
 
I had all the Diesel concerns last year - but never had a problem...

I used the PowerService stuff with each fill up...not sure if it's overkill or not... But, I never did have a problem - and it is supposed to help keep all clean!

I haven't done the shock or anything...Now I left about 1/2 tank in from last year (heated storage, so not too worried about condensation). Around here as well - we have to be careful (midwest) because many of the marinas still have diesel from last year in the tanks.... So my plan is to finish this tank off - fill up - possibly run that one through (if it's fuel from last year - will ask the marina when I fill up)... and then change both fuel filters...
 
I haven't used the shock either.I did use a stabilizer in the fall when I winterized but the name of it escapes me.

I try to use Valvetec fuel when I can get it as it already has biocide and other "good stuff" in it. It was easy to get in NJ but its not yet available in MD. :smt017

The only suggestion I would make at this point is try to use a fuel dock that pumps a good amount of fuel. This ensures (to the degree that it is possible) that you will be getting fresh fuel and not fuel that has been sitting in a storage tank at the marina collecting water and water-born critters. We don't have the critter problem that our southern CSR brothers do but you need to be aware of them non the less and take steps to keep them from contaminating your fuel.

FrankW has posted a number of times about diesel fuel and its management. Try doing a search. Hope this helps.
 
Thanks Guys, It is all very usefull! JC
Will try and find FrankW's old post on this subject. JC
 
I use the same plan that Dom uses, courtesy of fwebster. I ran 147 hours last year, used a lot of diesel, and once I got my fuel system healthy (previous owner not so much into fuel system maintenance) I had no issues. I swapped Racors every 50 hours, but the last swap was really unnecessary. The element came out pretty clean.

regards
Skip
 
I just had racors changed. Iam going to follow youre all's lead. JC
 
Here's what I do, Just swapped my Racors (5) counting the genny, Launch the boat and run. My Cummins guy says "save your money-you run alot of fuel thru the boat. He has told me this before and I listen.
 
Fuel Additives

With tanks layed up for months without being circulated, a shock of biocide might be in order, ten minutes of running will tell you as the proof will be in the bowl.

People think that Florida boats donwt have such troubles beacuse we boat all year. False, I'd estimate that 80% of the boats over 40 feet down here never move for months at a time, with little more than a five minute run once a week to keep things oiled. The tanks get sludged quickly during our summers when a boat is not used. Here is what we've learned. NEVER go to sea on stale tanks and ...

If you can run off the stale fuel do it. But if you must shock, the existing fuel will still harbor the dead organisms and wioll clog up the filters. You'll need to filter this out by running. So, shock, run off existing fuel and then change the filters all the way to the engine blocks. Refuel and use the boat. If you are not going to use the boat for extended periods, at least a few hours a week, then treat the new load of fuel as a new tank and then add as per directions for the balance of season.

What biologicals that were left in the begining stale fuel levels, will be killed off and pumped to the racors. Change filters as specs require there after if you are an active boater.

Many boats in the 40-60 foot size are adding onboard fuel polishing systems to manage fuel better. A good idea but a little difficult to do on fuled tanks.
 
JC,

Use OSD9's method and you'll be ok. There are a couple of points worth making, however.

The stuff in the gray bottle, is Power Service Products "Diesel Kleen w/Cetane Boost." Is should be run in boost concentration in all your fuel because it contains lubricity improvers and a cetane booster to replace the lubricity and cetane lost as a product of removing the sulfur from the fuel when ULSD is made. This will protect your fuel pump and injectors as well as improve cold starting ability.

Power Service also makes a product called Diesel 9-1-1 that is magic in a jug. It disperses moisture and breaks up the moleccular structure of the microbial growth in fuel sludge so that most of it will pass through a 2 micron filter which means you will burn it rather than clog up Racors with it. If you do have a load of algae and sludge in your tanks and you shock them, without Diesel 911 you will need a boxcar full of Racors to clean up the system because the sludge stays in clumps. Whenever I shock my tanks.....once a year.....I always use Diesel 9-1-1 at the same time. On 150 to 175 hours per year, I only change my Racors at annual service time.
 
Fuel Additive

Another thank you on the 911 tip Frank, I'm going to run off my winter fuel load in two weeks and this stuff soulds like a good bet.

Any idea what Cummin's take is on this juice?

Chad on Asureyez
 
I sent an e-mail to the GM of my local Cummins Service Center, his deputy, the service manager, etc. Not a word back. I recommend the Cummins guys order the Cummins tech bulletin on fuels, it is good reading. When the Cummins tech came out to re-commission the TCOTs he said look, this is not official Cummins position, but use biocide and diesel kleen and you will be fine.

So I do.

regards
Skip
 
Hi,

Does anyone know where to find Diesel 911 around Barnegat Bay NJ? Or best supply source over internet?

Thanks...Splashdown is almost here :smt038
 
I've seen it at the Walmart......also try NAPA on route 166 in S.T.R.
 
Wow...those Walmarts have everything. BTW, what does S.T.R. stand for? South Tom's River?

Thanks...Ed
 
EKM said:
... BTW, what does S.T.R. stand for? South Tom's River?

Thanks...Ed

Yes...but the more I think about it, I think that NAPA closed and the Motorcycle store is there now.... :smt017 ...there is a NAPA on Lacey Road in Forked River....
 
Never answer a question with a question but....
Does anyone have experience with Walker Algaeseps and if so, will it take care of these kinds of concerns?
 
An Algaesep is a fuel polishing system. When they are running, such systems continuously filter the fuel in the tanks via a low volume pump withdrawing fuel, pumping it through the filters in the polishing system then returning it to the tank.

No fuel polishing system can replace smart fuel management, nor can they add lubricity to the fuel or raise its cetane level. In addition to biocides and moisture dispersants, fuel additives also replace the lubricity and cetane which is lost as a by product of removing sulfur to make LSD and ULSD.
 
I have been reading your posts about fuel additives with renewed interest. Next week I will be able to post our "new" 400DA-D boat name AND treat the tanks for the first time as suggested!

I'm pretty wired about her arrival on Lake Ontario!
Cheers,
Warren
 

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