First cruise - couple issues need help with

Crushin It

Crushin It

Well-Known Member
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Oct 10, 2006
1,714
Safe Harbor Marina Kent Island, MD
Boat Info
2006 44 DA
QSC 8.3s
Engines
Cummins QSC 8.3s 500HO
Had this originally on 340 thread but thought that this is most likely the appropriate spot for getting support - so apology up front for repost...

Well today was our maiden voyage on new to us boat with just wife and I. Loved it and have couple questions of things I noticed today. I have searched site but just cannot find answers. First question: Galley fridge runs on 12V but not 110. I was plugged into 110V. Validated 110V on electric panel and made sure the refrig switch of 110V section was on in the main panel but still would not work. When I energized the battery switches the refrig started. When I shut down the battery switch it goes off. Had another person validate switch settings. His thought was maybe refrig is not plugged in... Next, Port window in head leaks water. Have water sitting on the trim area of window and runs down in forward head cabinet. Have tightened the small screws in the 3 window latches but still leaks. 3rd - Starboard fuel gauge reads E. Smart Craft SC5000 does not even indicate Starboard fuel tank, i do have Starboard Oil PSI on Smartcraft and all other gauges in starboard cluster work. Any help is appreciated..
 
Regarding the fridge, on my 2004 the outlets and fridge are on the same circuit. You may have a GFCI outlet tripped upstream from the fridge. I have a GFCI outlet in the head. Check there.
 
On my 88 Sundancer the frig is plugged into an outlet located behind the sink. I THINK the way they work is, when plugged into 110 it operates a converter (converting to 12v). So if it works on 12v but not 110 its a power to the frig issue. My frig came out with 4 screws, not sure if the newer ones are different. Good luck and congrats on the new boat :)
 
1. Did you verify voltage at the outlet the fridge is plugged into? If no voltage there, your GFI is most likely tripped.
2. Open the window all of the way then clean the rubber seal and treat it with some 303 or something of the sort. Loosen the screws before closing, then tighten them again, a little on each at a time. If it still leaks you may need to replace the rubber seal.
3. Check the ground connection on your fuel tank sending unit. If the ground is good, your sending unit is probably shot. Pretty easy to replace.
 
+1 on the GFI's. Had some frustrating times till I remembered to start checking them.
 
OK couple updates and still need help on the refrig issue -The GFI is working and refrig is plugged in. I pulled out frig from cabinet. Nothing happens on 110V. Frig is not working. No lights..nothing.. The plug is in and the outlet works. All switches on electric panel are in correct position. On 12V the light in the refrig is on.... the fan is on.....for about 60 seconds then the fan shuts off and the compressor comes on for about 5 seconds....then the compressor shuts off and the fan comes back on. repeats this type of cycle.. Frig never cools... Any ideas?????
 
sounds like the fridge 110v side may be bad, runs on 12v until 110v are detected, no need to replace it, so what it uses 12v only
 
blueeyeboatr said:
sounds like the fridge 110v side may be bad, runs on 12v until 110v are detected, no need to replace it, so what it uses 12v only
Click to expand...

If I read the OP's previous above this, it is not working on 12V either. The fan and compressor come on, then go straight off, it doesn't cool.

On 110V nothing happens


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