First boat

SS Leaky Tiki

New Member
Jul 14, 2016
4
Lake Milton Ohio
Boat Info
SeaRay SRV 195
Engines
350 Chevy
Hello all! I was recently given a 72 searay srv 195. It has a 350 in it. Last seen water in 2013. This is my first boat and I am looking for advice and tips on all the aspects a new boater should be aware of . First I need new exhaust end caps . Part 312148. And good sites for classic boat parts?? I am anxious to get her in the water before summer ends but not impatient. I want to make sure everything is safe and secure. Looking forward to the replies!
 
Welcome to CSR! There's plenty of good information and people to help you on this site.

The best advice I can give is to take a safe boating class in your area. If this is your first boat chances are you would really benefit from the information in the class.

Make sure you do all the things necessary before starting an engine that hasn't run in 3 years. Pull the plugs, lubricate the cylinders, change the oil in the engine and impeller in the lower end. There's probably a lot more to do, maybe someone else has more information.

Good luck and enjoy your first boat!
 
i bought my boat from Lake Milton. it was used on Erie but the owners lived next to Milton. i sea trialed it at Milton
 
Welcome to CSR! Good to have you aboard and congratulations on your new SRV. I have a 1979 SRV 195 - great boats. Boater420 gave great advice on getting ready to fire the engine after sitting for 3 years. A few more items to consider before lighting her off so forgive me if this gets a little winded. I would approach this as starting a rebuilt/new engine for the first time. I don't know your background with engines, so please forgive me if I mention things you already know. Change the oil and install a new filter. Give the engine a good visual inspection - check all rubber lines/hoses for cracking/splitting or bulging at the clamps-replace as necessary. check all electrical connections for security, corrosion, proper hook-up (battery cables not crossed, alternator wires hooked up correctly,etc), no bare wire conductors visable. Pull the plugs and squirt a teaspoon of light eng oil (transmission fluid works well) into the cylinders. I would let this set overnight and to allow the oil to soak the rings. Try to turn the eng over by hand (use a breaker bar or large ratchet)to see if it moves freely- if it doesn't, a little more oil can be squirted into the cylinders allowing another soak and try again. If this is successful start prepping for the start- if possible I would pull the distributor and prime the oil pump and turn the eng over periodically (by hand) to distribute oil throughout the eng. If you cant pull the distributor, you can use the starter motor to crank the eng, but leave the distributor in to turn the oil pump. After priming the pump, set the eng to the recommended timing point or to TDC as a base line. While the distributor is out, check the rotor, points and condenser (if equipped)-now is the best time to change the points/condenser. re-install the distributor and set to the #1 firing position. Install new cap, wires and plugs. Inspect/change the carb fuel filter and the water/fuel separator filter (if equipped). If you have a quadrajet carb without the "J" fuel bowl vent, you can try this- I do this in the spring before starting after winter lay-up (I drain the tank and carb for the winter). I spray two quick squirts of carb cleaner into the fuel bowl vent using the red extension wand to flush any residue in the bowl chamber, then I take a syringe and put fuel directly into the bowl to fill it- saves cranking to get fuel into the bowl. Have a source of good clean fuel ready. It may be best to start the eng off an external source of fuel unless you know for sure the fuel tank has good,clean fuel in it. That should help take care of the eng. Go to the drive, change the impeller and service the drive to the proper level. While the drive is off, check your gimbal bearing, bellows and cable bellows for condition/security. if they look bad/cracked or damaged, now is the best time to change them out while the drive is off being serviced. Before re-installing the drive check the alignment if you have access to the tool or ask a local shop or friend if they have a tool you can use. Once everything is back together, get ready for start- if fresh water cooled, top off the heat exchanger, verify oil level and fuel source, put your flushing muff on the out drive, turn on the water and get ready to give give her a go. A quick squirt of starting fluid to help things along and hopefully, she'll fire right off and your on your way. I may have overlooked some things and others will chime in and fill in the blanks, but with the help and knowledge here, you'll be successful in getting her back in the water.
 
one item you may want to invest in is a SELOC(sp?) manual- a valuable reference for engine/outdrive information - kind of a Haynes/Chilton's manual for boats. If you want to go further, ebay is a good source for finding the factory manuals for the Mercruiser engines/ outdrives (if your boat is equipped with a Mercruiser unit). Like many folks here, I try to do as much on my own as I can-to save money and when something breaks or goes wrong, its helpful to know something about the system. Here are a couple websites to help you along with finding parts- http://www.mercruiserparts.com and http://www.sterndrive.info/sterndriveparts/index.html. There are many websites available for parts and 'how to": these are two I used when I went thru my engine/outdrive. You tube is also a good source of "how to" videos
 
Welcome to CSR! Good to have you aboard and congratulations on your new SRV. I have a 1979 SRV 195 - great boats. Boater420 gave great advice on getting ready to fire the engine after sitting for 3 years. A few more items to consider before lighting her off so forgive me if this gets a little winded. I would approach this as starting a rebuilt/new engine for the first time. I don't know your background with engines, so please forgive me if I mention things you already know. Change the oil and install a new filter. Give the engine a good visual inspection - check all rubber lines/hoses for cracking/splitting or bulging at the clamps-replace as necessary. check all electrical connections for security, corrosion, proper hook-up (battery cables not crossed, alternator wires hooked up correctly,etc), no bare wire conductors visable. Pull the plugs and squirt a teaspoon of light eng oil (transmission fluid works well) into the cylinders. I would let this set overnight and to allow the oil to soak the rings. Try to turn the eng over by hand (use a breaker bar or large ratchet)to see if it moves freely- if it doesn't, a little more oil can be squirted into the cylinders allowing another soak and try again. If this is successful start prepping for the start- if possible I would pull the distributor and prime the oil pump and turn the eng over periodically (by hand) to distribute oil throughout the eng. If you cant pull the distributor, you can use the starter motor to crank the eng, but leave the distributor in to turn the oil pump. After priming the pump, set the eng to the recommended timing point or to TDC as a base line. While the distributor is out, check the rotor, points and condenser (if equipped)-now is the best time to change the points/condenser. re-install the distributor and set to the #1 firing position. Install new cap, wires and plugs. Inspect/change the carb fuel filter and the water/fuel separator filter (if equipped). If you have a quadrajet carb without the "J" fuel bowl vent, you can try this- I do this in the spring before starting after winter lay-up (I drain the tank and carb for the winter). I spray two quick squirts of carb cleaner into the fuel bowl vent using the red extension wand to flush any residue in the bowl chamber, then I take a syringe and put fuel directly into the bowl to fill it- saves cranking to get fuel into the bowl. Have a source of good clean fuel ready. It may be best to start the eng off an external source of fuel unless you know for sure the fuel tank has good,clean fuel in it. That should help take care of the eng. Go to the drive, change the impeller and service the drive to the proper level. While the drive is off, check your gimbal bearing, bellows and cable bellows for condition/security. if they look bad/cracked or damaged, now is the best time to change them out while the drive is off being serviced. Before re-installing the drive check the alignment if you have access to the tool or ask a local shop or friend if they have a tool you can use. Once everything is back together, get ready for start- if fresh water cooled, top off the heat exchanger, verify oil level and fuel source, put your flushing muff on the out drive, turn on the water and get ready to give give her a go. A quick squirt of starting fluid to help things along and hopefully, she'll fire right off and your on your way. I may have overlooked some things and others will chime in and fill in the blanks, but with the help and knowledge here, you'll be successful in getting her back in the water.

Great advice. Keep in mind that if you continually bar your motor in the same direction with the distributor out, that it requires 2 full revolutions before you put it back in.
 

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