Fire Extinguisher Reccomendation?

N

NorCalGlenn

New Member
Feb 20, 2012
402
Bullards Bar Reservoir, CA
Boat Info
230 SLX
Engines
350 MAG / Bravo Three
Hey!

So, unless I overlooked it, my new boat doesn't have a fire extinguisher. I could be mistaken, but won't be able to check for a few weeks.

With that being said, when I do some research online (i.e. WestMarine, etc.) I see several types of extinguishers which have a HUGE price difference.

Looks like the less expensive are chemical based, and there are some (very!) expensive inert gas based?

The chemical ones have disclosures that using them can damage the components of the engine.

WTH?!?!

Any thoughts or opinions would be appreciated.

Or maybe there's an extinguisher tucked away in my boat, and I just haven't come across it yet?
 
ABC covers ALL. C02 is not correct but if you have an engine fire it should work and keep white powder off things. That was the recommendation from a fireman I know.
 
I would think all dealers do the same thing, but I can't say for sure. We install an extinguisher on any boat, new or used, that leaves our place. Chances are you have one - or maybe they just forgot to install it since extinguishers are not installed by Sea Ray.
 
I'm not sure how much "real" damage a chemical extinguisher will do to your engine, but... if it's already on fire, does it really matter?:smt001
 
Don't know if this helps or is just redundant, according to my documentation boats 16-26 ft must have at least a class B-I Fire extinguisher, USCG approved. This covers all B type fires ( gasoline, oil, or grease). Larger boats 26-40 ft a B-II, or two B-I's.

Sounds like the B type is the key.

Btw, I did not get one with my new Sport 190 either, but still have the one I had in the old 180...
 
Well, thanks for the feedback. I surfed over to Amazon and eBay, and it became evident that a CO2 wasn't going to fit the bill. And (as always), Dennis's words of wisdom are appreciated. The common sense of it (the fact that there would be damage from the fire) caused an audible "D'oh!" that I suspect was heard by those outside my office. LOL

Oh, and my 185 and 190 came with mounted extinguishers. Maybe I just need to look a little harder...
 
We have 5 hand held on our boat. The intent of them is to be able to fight a fire to the point it will go out or you can get off the boat. They are located at the point you are going to exit through. A small galley fire you can probably put out. An electric fire probably. A gas fire do not think so. I also have Halon in the engine room. It came with the boat. Also have a ball in the engine room that is suposed to discharge and put out an engine fire. I have seen engine room fires that were put out with ABC extigushers and the area looks like a snow storm. Coat Guard has a minimum requirment you need to do that. What ever you feel after that you can add. I remember boats do not require ABC but ABC covers all fire types.
 
CO2 is most effective in enclosed spaces such as the engine room. Not so much out in the open air. The manual from merc says to kill the engine first before putting out a fire with a dry chemical extinguisher so as to not ingest the powder into the engine. I have 2 dry chemical extinguishers in my boat. never had to use one yet thank God.
 
Lazy Daze said:
I'm not sure how much "real" damage a chemical extinguisher will do to your engine, but... if it's already on fire, does it really matter?:smt001
Click to expand...

Yes, it does matter. Many fires in a bilge are not going to harm the engine block, heads and other metal parts, the fire may be localized to a small corner of the bilge, but typical dry chemical will cause corrosion on and in the engine, wiring, and electrical parts that may not actually be destroyed by the fire itself.

The halon type are the best extinguishers for the ER and what my boat had from the factory. This is from a motor coach site on our topic.

"There are several types of fire suppression devices using foam, powder as well as Halon and other "clean agent gas" formulations to squelch a fire. Some will remove the oxygen from the fire while others cool the fire as well as create a layer separating the fire from it's oxygen. All of these will be effective in their different ways and you need to select one that fits your situation. I prefer to use the "clean agent gas" and "foam" AFFF-- Aqueous Film Forming Foam) driven fire suppression systems in an RV. In the confined compartments of an RV, these systems will dramatically knock down a fire without causing damage to the coach. You not only want to protect your investment from the fire danger but also want to protect it from the fire suppression system as well. Cleanup from a fire can be costly from the detrimental effects of the fire extinguisher. The "Clean Agent Gas" systems leave no residue and dissipate into the atmosphere while the water based, non toxic, non corrosive "green" Foam suppressants are easily cleaned up with water. Dry Chemical fire extinguishers leave a caustic, corrosive residue which can corrode wiring and do other very damaging things to your coach.

Of course the fire will damage and destroy property but some fire suppression systems can cause as much and in some cases more damage than the fire itself in a vehicle. A caustic soda fire suppression systems used on an engine fire can corrode wiring easily to the point of destruction and even if you put out the fire right away, the clean up of the aftermath can be expensive because of the fire suppression material itself. The "Dry Powder Chemical" designed fire extinguishers will cause these problems and using one on the interior of your coach may save the coach but in many cases will require most everything it is sprayed on to be replaced. We received a coach after an engine fire that actually ran but the estimate to repair the damage was extensive in that all the wiring, all connections and most all the aluminum in the engine compartment had to be replaced. Needless to say the coach owner was not a "happy camper" when he saw the bill.

I recommend "Clean Agent Gas"gas or Aqueous Film Forming "Foam" (AFFF) systems, these systems remove the oxygen from the fire which puts it out quite effectively. In the case of AFFF "Foam", being water based it also cools the heat source which is very important to guard against reigniting the flame. Both of these suppressants will not cause damage. "Halon" gas is arguably the best fire fighting material ever made by man but as it goes has been found to deplete the ozone layer of the atmosphere in quantity. This gas is no longer produced but is being reclaimed from previously manufactured fire suppression systems and is still available through several companies. Other new "Clean Agent Gas" formulations (HFC227 & FE36) are replacing Halon, these formulations are available now and do a similar great job at removing oxygen from the "fire Triangle" (oxygen-- heat-- fuel) without causing damage. The AFFF "Foam" systems both cools the heat source as well as cuts the oxygen from the fire. A water soluble chemical AFFF "Foam", is an easy cleanup and will not damage wiring (non corrosive) and non toxic."

http://www.gmccoop.com/fire_suppression.htm

From BoatUS:

"Dry Chemical Extinguisher
The economically priced, handheld dry chemical fire extinguishers are the most common type found aboard recreational boats. The retardant functions by coating the material on fire and removing the oxygen from the flame similar to throwing a fire blanket on a fire. An accurate aim at the base of the fire directs the retardant at the source. Sometimes our testers found that by aiming at the top or middle of the fire, they could not put out the fire completely, and frequently required an additional extinguisher to finish the job. Clean up of dry chemical extinguishers can be messy and it is corrosive to electronic components and wiring."

http://www.boatus.org/fire-extinguishers/

MM
 
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Most of what you reference, Mike, is in regards to permanently mounted systems. Do any of those things come in handheld units (which is what the OP is referencing)? I can't imagine a small electrical fire taking much to put out that it would cause any real damage to other structures. Chances are, the stories we hear about extra damage is from overuse and panicking. Plus, that's what insurance is for. BUT, if there's a reasonable alternative to a dry chemical handheld, I'd be open to hearing more about it.

Speaking of systems... Glenn, there's a possibility that you also have a system (still need a handheld). You can check by looking for the little green LED on your dash, or look on the transom wall behind the engine for the bottle.
 
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Interesting. Boats will need at least the # "10" version. Probably not an option for most people with smaller boats - due to it's increased size and cost. But it's nice to know that the option is there.
 
I will still keep DC extinguishers for many situations such as cockpit cooking fires etc. but would love the halon for a helm or bilge fire.

MM
 
I looked on Amazon for Halon FE's and found several, but wow, are they expensive.

A 2.5lb version is $182.39. The 5lb size is $215.01, and the 10lb size is $399.95.

We have about 10 of the dry chemical ABC type on our boat. I think I'll stick with those and let the insurance pick up any cleanup costs.
 
Hey Guys!

Thanks for all the feedback, I appreciate it. Dennis, I am certain there is no automatic/built-in extinguisher as I did look for it behind the engine - and there is no dash light for it next to the stereo remote. The CO2 extingishers I saw online all seem to have a cone at the end of the nozzle, which don't seem condusive for the engine room extingisher port - so I'll probably go with a (smaller) halon gas one, but there's no immediate rush as I won't be taking her out for another month or so.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Interesting. Boats will need at least the # "10" version. Probably not an option for most people with smaller boats - due to it's increased size and cost. But it's nice to know that the option is there.
Click to expand...

Hey Dennis, why will boats need the the #10 version? The little one is rated B-1 which is what the USCG requires.

MM
 
Maybe I'm reading the ratings wrong, Mike. We carry the normal dry chem extinguishers at the store - "5BC" and "10BC" and the 5BC is only rated for PWC's. The 5BC is physically smaller.
 
Based on my readings from the WM site and the USCG regs the smaller one is a B-1 and I could have 2 of them and be in compliance on my 270.

MM
 
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