Extra battery

[wish2fish]

W2F,

Where do you plan on mounting the amp and the new battery switch? I'd like to get that switch out of there as well.

I'm probably going to go with 2 amps. 1 for the sub and 1 for the 4 speakers. The amps will likely get located under the passenger console by the radio. I think there is enough free flowing air in there to keep the cool. and it is only about a 10ft run to the battery for power.

There is a carpeted vertical wood panel just to the right of the jump seat as you look at it. You can get access to the back of this panel by removing the panel the switch is currently mounted to. I figured I would drill a hole big enough for the wires to connect to the switch and mound the switch to this vertical panel.

 

[MXer478]

Sounds good....I'll have to check out the aft section to look for that spot for the switch.

Heres a stupid question, most likely. I have a 300 Watt (240 W RMS at 4 ohms) amp....do you think this is too much to drive a 100 watt bazooka tube? I'd really like to just drop a tube under the bench seat instead of drilling any holes for subs or build a box for one.

I'd like to use this amp for the sub only. I guess if the amp is too much, I could drive two of them???

 

[wish2fish]

I'm the wrong person to answer your question about amps/speakers. I'm trying to figure this out myself.

 

[MXer478]

I bought my cables today for the second batt....the WestMarine salesmen told me that it would be fine to just hook the new battery up by using the inside terminals along with a wingnut. Is this correct? I mean, that sounds simple but if this is ok, why does my other battery have the normal huge conection on the terminals?? This new batt is a crank/deep cycle combo batt that will be used mostly for stereo operation. Any help would be great! Thanks, J

 

[Boat Boss]

I always go with 2, on a switch. Having a dead battery really ruins the day or at least is a pain. I typically run on one, switching between them every other trip.

 

[wkearney99]

Soldering is not the prefered way to make up a battery cable. The best way is to use pre-tinned marine grade cable and crimp on the the lugs. Using auto grade cable and/or soldering are poor substitutes.

Agreed, the problem with solder is it make too rigid off a connection. The vibrations in a boat will cause the solder to crack. Cracks lead to spark risks, not a good thing. Where as using crimped lugs and screwed-down connections (clamps, terminal strips, lugs, etc) make for secure mechanical connections but usually with enough 'give' to avoid risks. With any style you want to MAKE SURE you securely mount and support the wiring. You do not want to leave it dangling or rubbing against anything. Heat shink, dielectric grease and liquid electrical tape are your friends when sealing connections against corrosion. Use them.