Exhaust/risers and manifolds

Hi - I'm doing some research before buying a 2000 Sundancer 260.
The 5.7 260HP engine has the original manifolds and risers.
I'm also having a surveyor check out the boat.
Should I plan on having these replaced soon after purchasing the boat?
And what is a ballpark cost on having these replaced (no way can I tackle this myself - at least not immediately).
Thanks in advance,
Keith
 
How many hours on the boat? What type of water has the boat been used in? Is it stored in a wet slip, dry stack, or trailer?

These all can affect the life of the risers. Ours were original and were still good after 250 hours but the original owner kept her in fresh water, and we flushed the engine after every use. Your mileage may vary.

Jeff
 
Hi - the boat only has 140 hours on it - it will be stored in salt water slip, and I'm assuming it has been in salt water it's whole life. Again, in NY, we are only in the water for 5-6 months.

If the boat is kept in a slip, is it possible to flush the engine with fresh water each time?
Also, do any of the 260DA's have a fresh water cooling system, or are they all raw water intakes?

Thanks for everyone's help,
K
 
370 dancer said:
Be sure if your doing it to get the stainless plate Merc is buying from Gil and using on all there exhaust as part of updates. My boat was fixed under warranty a few years back and I ripped it down this year just to be safe and found this plate. I went to buy gaskets and brought it with me and the guy was shocked I had them in my boat. Gil calls it a turbulator and owns the patten on it and Merc is now buying it from them for the valve overlap issues. Mine was done 3 years ago and everything still looks great so maybe this is the fix they needed. I cant believe mine was done three years ago and this has never come up anywhere. It is sold as a Merc part with a gil patten sticker on it.
Click to expand...

I looked into this and it is a neat and simple design. It basically provides a "lip" for condensation that can build up in the riser(spacer) or elbow. Any condensation that would build up would be caught by this lip before it reaches the manifold itself. Then, when the engine is started, it would burn the moisture off.

It is clever.

-John
 
Re: gaskets

jackson said:
Not sure if everyone does this, but the service manual states to apply a 1/8 in. bead of LOCTITE 510 Sealant around all holes on both sides of new gasket.
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I was wondering the same thing about the loctite 510 sealant for the riser gaskets.

The replacement gaskets I received have a graphite like coating on them and I was wondering if I needed to clean this off the gaskets or is it part of the gasket?

The sealant has primer 7471 and cleaner 7070 that I would imagine if used on the gasket would remove the graphite like coating. Thus if it is important to use the loctite 510 then the graphite coating needs to come off. This seems to be a straight forward job but I definitely want to get it right. What do you guys think?
 
Those graphite gaskets require no sealant BUT Quicksilver Perfect Seal is what I and ALOT of marinas use on those gaskets. Actually use it on bolts,gaskets,plugs (Everything except manifold to head gasket.)
 
I've got big blocks and have never had a really good seal. I even changed from the stainless steel elbows to the cast ones to improve this <and with new manafolds>, but no luck. I've used the paper gaskets, the teflon ones, all with and without Perfect Seal, but nothing has worked. My latest attempt is paper gaskets with Hi Temp <Black> Permatex. I'm getting ready to crack them open for the yearly inspection. I hope I am not dissapointed again.
 
What do you find when you do a yearly teardown? What brand manifolds/risers do you have installed now? Do you retorque them during the season?
 
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I find some scale on the inside exhaust passages showing that water has been getting in. No rust or water, just signs of some water seeping in. Valves are clean and compression is great. I've only used Merc parts, except for some of the gaskets I've tried, which were Sierra. Yes, I torque, and re-torque.
 
If no luck with Merc parts maybe try some aftermarkets? I just bought perfprotech's compl manifold & riser set. Ceramic & EDP coated just like Merc. They did alot of R&D for merc for 25 years so I figured they knew what they were doing and a 3 year warranty on the manifolds & risers.
 
SAshton said:
Those graphite gaskets require no sealant BUT Quicksilver Perfect Seal is what I and ALOT of marinas use on those gaskets. Actually use it on bolts,gaskets,plugs (Everything except manifold to head gasket.)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feed back. Has anyone ever used the rust encapsulation products that they sell for car frames and the like inside the water passages of the risers? I was wondering if this would prolong there life or if it would just cause more trouble than its worth. Flaking and a chance of blockage would be part of the problems that could exist.
 
I wouldn't use it or anything at all to try to make a corroded riser last longer.

The reason I wouldn't is because I don't think it would work since the riser is subject to exhaust pressure and expansion/contraction due to some pretty drastic temperature changes.

Once you find corrosion, the end is in sight.....bite the bullet and fix it right. A band-aid repair only delays the enevitable and you do it at the risk of having to buy a complete engine instead of just some cast parts..
 
Yea I kinda figured it was a long shot for used ones. I was fishing to see if anyone had tried it.

I am going to do what SAshton suggested and use the Quicksilver Perfect Seal on my graphite coated gaskets. I have been using a razor blade to clean the surfaces is there a better way? I was thinking about a brass brush in a die grinder. Any thoughts?
 
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laquer thinner helps and I use sand paper but dont go crazy because you don't want to sand the metal surface. You can use the grinder brush but again be careful not to remove the surface.(only the gasket)
 
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