Engine Hatch Lift for 280

MExcelsior

MExcelsior

Member
Oct 23, 2006
497
Iowa
Boat Info
2007 310 SeaRay DA
Kohler
Engines
Twin 6.2 MPI Bravo III
OK, all you 280 owners who feel my pain and also have a callous between their middle and ring finger... I have a question. Other than the obvious using a rope with an eye for manually opening the engine hatch, are there any other options?
 
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I don't know about a rope but the hydraulic lifts on these hatches are seriously underpowered for the weight involved. I replaced one with the OEM unit already. I should have replaced both with a more powerful aftermarket brand. That being said, the initial pull will always be a challenge as the door is laying flat with all of the weight fighting against gravity with minimal help from the lift until you get it up a bit more.
 
gerryb said:
I don't know about a rope but the hydraulic lifts on these hatches are seriously underpowered for the weight involved. I replaced one with the OEM unit already. I should have replaced both with a more powerful aftermarket brand. That being said, the initial pull will always be a challenge as the door is laying flat with all of the weight fighting against gravity with minimal help from the lift until you get it up a bit more.
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I need to replace one of mine due to the plastic end breaking off (not sure how that happened). Has anyone found an aftermarket replacement that would work rather better than getting another one from a dealer?

They dont seem to be very cheap at my local MM dealer, especially since i really only need the plastic end piece but seem to have to buy the entire lift arm.
 
I was having a difficult time with mine, until someone pointed out that you only have to lift the hatch about 6 inches and then the struts should lift the hatch on their own. They do but slowly. I was trying to pull the hatch all of the way up and was actually fighting the strut by trying to lift faster than it could go. :smt021
 
Unfortunately, the rope trick is about it as far as I can tell. I love my 280DA, except when I have to lift that $#&! engine hatch ... boy, what an ordeal that is. I agree with Ciao Bella though, once you get it up about six inches, the struts seem to take over and the burden is overcome. From that point, the lift is easy with no strain. If SeaRay needed to fix anything on the 280DA (in my humble opinion) it would be how to better design this so it could be opened manually without giving yourself a hernia.
 
Don't forget to make sure the rear-facing cushion is pushed up tight all the way or the hatch will stop, even worse, once the hatch is up make sure the cushion is pushed in or you will have a nice tear/rip on the top of your cushion.
 
I have never had a problem with mine, probably because I'm strong like bull!! My friends would say I'm full of bull but seriously, I just get it started with my hand and it goes right up the way it's supposed to. I agree that the position of the rear seat is very important also.
KV
 
You might try these folks for replacements:


http://www.spdhardware.com/catalog/list.asp?id={CE060225-C41E-48CB-B765-670C994D2323}

This link is for all stainless gas springs which is the only ones I've used on my boat. I've replaced several and these are about 1/2 the cost at the dealer, but you will need to understand the terminology and your specs to order. If you want other than stainless, click on "gas springs" and there are enough different ones to get confused.
 
Frank,

Thanks for the link. I ended up going through MM before seeing your post. Luckly I complained enough to the parts guy that he gave me 20% off.

Ill try your source next time, looks like it still would have saved me more than going through the dealer.
 
I don't know if they ever fixed the hatch (hard to open) part of the 280da, but that was one of my few gripes I had when I owned my 280da. I could open it but my wife would never be able to have done so. Serious design flaw at least in my 2003 280da. Just my humble opinion....
 
Mine has a switch on the dash and it works like a charm...effortless.

When did they implement the engine hatch lift in the 280?

.
 
The switch has been on the dash panel from at least the 02 model (probably longer but I can only speak definitively to the model I have). I got the 2002 sales brochure from the PO and it is not listed as an option.

There have been a couple of discussions on the topic of either installing, or the effort of lifting. During those discussions no one ever piped up as you just did. The 2008 I saw at the boat show was the first I'd seen, so I am guessing it may have only been very recently.

Henry
 
The all you've recommended are good but I do in my 280 hold up the rear seat cushion, get hold the grab rail at the ent.center with the left hand and wear a glove to the right and then pull up the hatch pin approximately 10cm then wait the hidraulic lift goes up. but I'm gonna change the lift with an electrically operated one.
 
You can possibly use your Trim Tab hydraulic system to double as an engine hatch lift (depending on what Trim Tab system you have). The following is from Bennett Trim Tab Owners manual...

Hatch Lifter:
The Hatch Lifter system raises hatches at the press of a switch—up to 250 lbs. Operation is smooth and quiet. For space and cost efficiency, the system shares the same Hydraulic Power Unit as the trim tabs. The Hatch Lifter cylinder features a stainless steel shaft with an anodized aluminum housing. Various kits are available with cylinders in 12”, 18” and 24” strokes. Also available independent of trim tabs.
Click to expand...
 
Lenco and several other make electric hatch lifters in several different lengths. They operate @ 12V with a remote mounted rocker switch. The Lencos come with a clevis pin that you can rig with a pull cord/wire up thru the deck so that you can disconnect at the attachment point and lift your hatch manually if you have lost your electrical power.
 
rabyers1 said:
Lenco and several other make electric hatch lifters in several different lengths. They operate @ 12V with a remote mounted rocker switch. The Lencos come with a clevis pin that you can rig with a pull cord/wire up thru the deck so that you can disconnect at the attachment point and lift your hatch manually if you have lost your electrical power.
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The Lenco lifts look like they're priced reasonably. How big an ordeal would it be to install the Lenco lift to work with the factory hatch lift buttons on the helm?

I couldn't find reference on the Lenco site to see if the lifts are ignition protected. Anyone know if they are safe to be installed in the engine room?
 
strategy9 said:
The Lenco lifts look like they're priced reasonably. How big an ordeal would it be to install the Lenco lift to work with the factory hatch lift buttons on the helm?

I couldn't find reference on the Lenco site to see if the lifts are ignition protected. Anyone know if they are safe to be installed in the engine room?
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Can't answer the ignition protection question, but I bet they are if they are marketed as 'engine hatch lifts' by a supplier of marine parts.

I have not dug out the lift wires, but have utilized other unused switchpad functions with success. The 280 wiring diagrams give the pinout position for all of the switch functions on each EIM. In the case of the engine lift the EIM is in ER. The EIM also provides a breaker function, so as long as the Lenco lift motor did not require more amps than SR provided on the EIM, it would be pretty much plug and play. It will certainly save the headache of getting wires from the helm to the ER!.

Henry
 
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