Engine flushing kits

[jcoll]

I'd like to install an engine flushing kit on my 290 Sundancer. It has 2-5.0L raw water cooled engines and I'd feel better if I could flush them out after every run. Does anyone have any experience or reccomendations on this?

 

[Chris R]

Inboards? If so, I had my dealer install one on each engine (not sure if it was for Mercruiser or what). They implied it was something from the factory (?).

Anyway, very simple to use. They are simple quick-connects "teed" into the main water line coming in from the strainer. Put the male end on the hose, pop it in and go. Of course, close your strainers and all that- and, there are some instructions you need to follow as in not running the water longer than 15 seconds w/o the engine running, etc. Works like a charm.

 

[kazie]

I spent many hours researching fresh water flush system with the concerns of saltwater corrosion. The plastic flush valves systems ( perko flushpro & j.p. flush-o-matic) have a very high failure rate, the MTG quick flush valve system is made of brass but requires moving three (3) valve handles to flush each engine and requires you to have easy access to the bilge where the valves need to be located, Mercruiser has a engine flush connector kit ( part # 22-861932A-1) but the mercruiser mechanics I have spoken to do not recommend installing the kit. When I am required to replace my engines I will have a fresh water cooling system installed on the replacement engines.

 

[Alex F]

This thread will help. Fresh Water Rinse Manifold '05 340Da

Also, some relevant and informative thread. Crash valves or intake diverter valves on the seacocks

 

[Alex F]

I spent many hours researching fresh water flush system with the concerns of saltwater corrosion. The plastic flush valves systems ( perko flushpro & j.p. flush-o-matic) have a very high failure rate, the MTG quick flush valve system is made of brass but requires moving three (3) valve handles to flush each engine and requires you to have easy access to the bilge where the valves need to be located, Mercruiser has a engine flush connector kit ( part # 22-861932A-1) but the mercruiser mechanics I have spoken to do not recommend installing the kit. When I am required to replace my engines I will have a fresh water cooling system installed on the replacement engines.

Thanks for confirming what I had anticipated with perko plastic valves. If you take time to read the first thread Fresh Water Rinse Manifold '05 340Da on how we (John and I) were building and testing our flushing installations you'll see that things can be done much easier. E.g. I don't close my seacocks while flushing and it very acceptible to based on my personal test. My setup workde for almost two seasons now and I'm very pleased on ease of use and functionality aspects.

 

[docofthebay]

He has Alpha One outdrives. The water pickup is in the outdrive. Can a flushing kit be installed that doesnt involve the outdrive itself? If you install a flushing kit on the engine and run the engine to circulate the water, wouldn't that exclude the impeller in the outdrive and damage it?
I also have the alpha ones and if it can be done on the engines, I would love to do it to avoid having to use the flush kit attachment on the outdrive.

 

[trit21]

Mercruiser has a engine flush connector kit ( part # 22-861932A-1) but the mercruiser mechanics I have spoken to do not recommend installing the kit. When I am required to replace my engines I will have a fresh water cooling system installed on the replacement engines.

And what is there reasoning behind not installing the Mercruiser flush kit?

I also looked into the fresh water cooling but since the manifolds, riser would still be raw water cooled, didn't really see the advantage in installing the fresh water system since failures are primarily the manifold, risers.

 

[Alex F]

He has Alpha One outdrives. The water pickup is in the outdrive. Can a flushing kit be installed that doesnt involve the outdrive itself? If you install a flushing kit on the engine and run the engine to circulate the water, wouldn't that exclude the impeller in the outdrive and damage it?
I also have the alpha ones and if it can be done on the engines, I would love to do it to avoid having to use the flush kit attachment on the outdrive.

Good point, I didn't look at his sig. In this case the options are limited. However, lets think about ot for a minute...:smt101....:smt024..I don't recall how the water intake is supplied to the engine with Alpha I (it's been too long ago), but remember that with BIII there's a hose from drive to the impeller pump (impeller not on the drive but on the engine). So, if using the same approach by tapping in to that intake hose with a "T" it could work. When you turn on city water it should over power the row water and supply enough fresh water to the impeller and flush the engine. I wasn't planning to keep my 240DA in water for years in the slip, so I didn't attempt to fabricate flushing system this way. However, it's an idea that can be analyzed in more details and implemented.

Since impeller is inside the Alpha drive I would think that there's no hose involved and there's direct water intake supply from the drive to the engine. I don't have any images of the configuration, but if there's a way to tap in to the water intake at least before the water pump, then it might work. So, in this case when you run city water the idea is that drive impeller will be using raw water while city water will be fighting it's way up to the engine pushing the raw water out back to the drive. Theoretically, drive will be safe and the engine flushed. But, we wont know for sure if the idea would work unless we try it. There are a lot of IFs and BUTs, so before anyone attempts to do something like that they better do more detailed analyses, may be even cosult with their mechanic. Unfortunatelly, we don't see too many cool fabrications when it comes to flushing the engines. I don't know if you'll find any boat done this way, but it doesn't mean it can't be done. Even with v-drives and inboards we don't see many boats flushing the engines, most people thinks that it's not necessary. But, I think it personal opinion. When you approach people with an idea of fabricating something to flush the engine with outdrives they may thing you're creazy. It's nice that you're thinking of a ways to prolong the life of the engine, so I think that if upgrading to a bigger boat with v-drives is not in the near future, then I would think think aboout fabricating a flushing setup.

 

[jcoll]

Great stuff so far - thanks for the input. I'm trying to come up with a system similar to my last boat, a Four Winns 258 Vista with a Volvo Penta outdrive. It had a simple hose connection at the transom and the plumbing went to both sides of the block below the manifolds (where the drain plugs would normally be). There was no connection directly to the manifolds so I would assume water flow was sufficient to make its way up and out the manifolds. Fours Winns did not want the engine running for this procedure. The boat was 5 years old when I got it and 10yrs. old when I sold it and still had the original manifolds and risers on it, so I'm convinced there is merit to flushing. I saw several systems on-line but they are a bit pricey and they have a fair amount of plastic in them - I'd rather not use plastic. I may try to duplicate the Four Winns system but I need to do some more research. Any other input is greatly appreciated. I'll keep you posted if I come up with something good.

 

[Gunn]

I would love to be able to flush my engines (4.3MPI's with AlphaI's) without using muffs. I can't get to my outdrives when on the boat lift so I'm kind of stuck.

I have been thinking of one idea though. My engine has the single-point drain system. Awesome setup, just a single blue valve at the top of the engine that you crank open and the entire engine block drains. So my idea is to somewhere T into a water line somewhere near the thermostat housing and add a quick connect garden hose fitting. Then I would be able to drain the engine of salt water and connect the garden hose to flush it with fresh water.

Now I wouldn't be able to run the engine, so this would really only flush the block, not the risers, etc.

I wonder though if it's even worth the hassle to flush just the block?

 

[Fun Times]

Mercruiser has a engine flush connector kit ( part # 22-861932A-1)

Hi, It appears like this kit would also need to use water hose part number 861590A05 in order to work from merc, Did you run into this at all?

Engine Flush Connector Kit - Fits MIE & Tow Sports engines with drainable circulating pump hose.



SKU: 861932A1, Price : $185.21
Fits MIE & Tow Sports engines with drainable circulating pump hose.


Circulating Pump Hose - Fits MCM/MIE GM V-6 and V-8 (305, 350 & 377 cid) engines

SKU: 861590A05, Price : $47.50
Fits MCM/MIE GM V-6 and V-8 (305, 350 & 377 cid) engines

http://www.mercurypartsexpress.com/us/LarrysMarineCenter/flush-kit-p165481.html