Engine alignment issues

[pchansen]

I just finished a transom service today including replacing the gimbal bearing. Upon checking the alignment, I can tell that I'm off just a fraction as the alignment tool drags a bit too much as I withdrawal it from the engine coupler. I've determined that the front of the engine needs to be raised ever so slightly. So here's the problem. Even after removing the alternator, raw water pump, and loosening the cool fuel unit, I can not under any circumstances or techniques known to reasonable humans reach the starboard engine mount. There is simple no access. None. I can get a finger on the bolt and that's about it.
Is there anyone who knows a trick to bending the tab washer out of the way or simply a technique on getting a wrench on the bottom nut I would greatly appreciate it.
BTW, if there are any Searay or Mercruiser engineers lurking on this site, you should all be ashamed of your selves for building a boat that is basically un-serviceable. I will be paying closer attention to serviceability when I make my next purchase.

Paul
'05 220 Sundeck
5.0 MPI Bravo III


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[dvx216]

I have no tips on the mounting bolts but I do have a question? When you do an alignment test do you roll the motor to check to see if the coupling is true?

 

[pchansen]

I did the whole 90 degree engine rotation and insert the alignment tool and bang on the tool with a dead blow hammer at 12, 3, 6, and 9 O'clock and it still shows just a slight drag ( can't push it in with just a finger, you have to use your whole hand). The grease shows it's dragging on the bottom more than the top. But again, the tool will go in and out, it just has more resistance than it should.


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[pchansen]

I'm admitting defeat and will call my shop on Monday and schedule a time where I can bring the boat in and see if maybe they have a spider monkey on loan from the zoo that maybe can get in there and adjust the mounts.


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[Bob & Sue]

If it's that hard to push in & you can see marks on the spline you will shorten the life of the coupler. I know this from experience blew my coupler a few years ago after pulling the drive to replace a shift cable the drive went in kind of tight the mechanic said it was ok 2 months later the coupler splines were gone LUSR did make it right but it was a hassle. I would contact Sea Ray customer service or LUSR & ask for some advice on how they do it might be something simple.

 

[pchansen]

Yeah I've watched a few vids and seen how easy it can be to slide the tool in and out. You've hit the nail on the head. I don't want to be replacing a coupler anytime soon. Boating season is not quite upon us so if it takes a few weeks to get right then so be it. It's just frustrating that something so simple can't be accomplished because Searay designers apparently didn't consider that these mounts would have to be adjusted at some point. I understand that during construction, the drivetrain is installed and adjusted prior to the top half of the boat being lowered and bonded to the hull.


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[Fly4Kix]

I'd be curious what your shop says. We have the same year SD with the same engine and drive. Two years ago I had the cone clutch go bad and subsequent drive removal for repair. I'm lucky that I live in the same area where the boats were built and there are a lot of ex factory mechanics around. During that ordeal one of the extras has done was an alignment check, my alignment sounds similar. The mechanic said not to worry it was within spec and many left the factory in the same shape. Otherwise he did say there was some special tooling required for engine adjustment/removal of mounting bolts.

Makes me me wonder if he was being straight up with me now.

 

[Bob & Sue]

According to the maintenance manual a Bravo drive should have the alignment done every 200 hours or 2 years except Horizons which is 300 & 3 years.

 

[pchansen]

I'd be curious what your shop says. We have the same year SD with the same engine and drive. Two years ago I had the cone clutch go bad and subsequent drive removal for repair. I'm lucky that I live in the same area where the boats were built and there are a lot of ex factory mechanics around. During that ordeal one of the extras has done was an alignment check, my alignment sounds similar. The mechanic said not to worry it was within spec and many left the factory in the same shape. Otherwise he did say there was some special tooling required for engine adjustment/removal of mounting bolts.

Makes me me wonder if he was being straight up with me now.

This is my first time trying to adjust the alignment so I too am not sure what "little resistance" actually means. It takes I firm hand hold on the tool to insert and remove the tool from the coupler. The YouTube vids show people pushing the tool in with just a finger and pulling it out with a thumb and forefinger only. Other than age (10 years now), the only reason for the transom service was a very slight groaning noise that could be heard when the boat was idling in or out of gear. The hallmark of a failing gimbal bearing. The bearing popped right out and honestly seemed to be in pretty good shape. Maybe a slight grittiness when spun in my hand.
I'll update when I can get the boat down to the shop.


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[pchansen]

An update: it turns out the engine alignment was within spec. So my preseason tuneup consisted of new bellows, gimbal bearing, cool fuel filter and strainer, engine oil filter and change, gear lube change and new raw water impeller(bravo 3). So..... Everything went back together and I test run the engine hooked up to water muffs. I couldn't get the engine to take any water. It just sprayed out the sides of the muffs. I did notice some significant scoring in the pump housing when I changed the impeller. Apparently this issue is pretty common with a new impeller and an old pump housing. So on Tuesday I'll remove everything again so I can remove the pump. I'll make sure there are no blockages in the water lines and then I'll order a pump rebuild kit from www.jcmarinellc.com. If anyone has any experience with this kit, I'd love to hear about it. Thanks.

 

[OllieC]

Yes - I had scoring on my water pump and you described. I had to basically 'prime' the pump by squeezing the muffs while taking in a few gulps of exhaust to get flow. Obviously this is an incorrect procedure.

The kit you are looking at is similar to what I used last year and worked great. However, when reattaching the mounting bracket onto the water pump after you install the plate, it will not align properly because you have made the pump deeper with the plate. It will take some finesse and patience. The kit beats a new pump at $300+.

 

[pchansen]

That sounds like the same kit and why I was hesitating purchasing the kit vs a new pump or even a new stainless steel Hardin Marine pump. By "finesse" do you mean drilling out the hole on the mount slightly so you can get the bolt to line up? It doesn't move the pulley out of alignment in the vertical plane? In other words, the pulley still lines up with the other pulleys and the serpentine belt?

 

[Woody]

Yes - I had scoring on my water pump and you described. I had to basically 'prime' the pump by squeezing the muffs while taking in a few gulps of exhaust to get flow. Obviously this is an incorrect procedure.

The kit you are looking at is similar to what I used last year and worked great. However, when reattaching the mounting bracket onto the water pump after you install the plate, it will not align properly because you have made the pump deeper with the plate. It will take some finesse and patience. The kit beats a new pump at $300+.

I pull the blue plug out of the thermostat housing and put the water hose up to it until water comes out at the stern....then hook up the muffs. She starts up pumping water immediately.

 

[pchansen]

I pull the blue plug out of the thermostat housing and put the water hose up to it until water comes out at the stern....then hook up the muffs. She starts up pumping water immediately.

I'll try that. I'm still going to order the kit because my pump housing is scored but it would be nice to know that there isn't an obstruction in the water lines caused by something I did during reassembly.