Emergency Start Solenoid

dtfeld

Water Contrails
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Jun 5, 2016
5,592
Milton, GA
Boat Info
410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
Engines
Cat 3126 V-Drives
Need a new Emergency Start Solenoid. Need a pretty close physical match at the wiring is tight and short. I bought an appropriately rated solenoid, but the size is much smaller, and the electrical connections the wrong size. I could probably make this work, but before I try to MacGyver this thing in, was hoping somebody had a lead on a more exact replacement. I'm coming up empty at the usual RV and truck places.

Need to be about 3" in diameter with side mounted 3/8 studs.

IMG_0888.jpeg
 
Parts manual says 144881. Any part numbers on the existing one?
 
This is the replacement (superceeded) for that part number through a Sea Ray dealer - about $70. New #1690833
1690833.GIF
 
Need a new Emergency Start Solenoid. Need a pretty close physical match at the wiring is tight and short. I bought an appropriately rated solenoid, but the size is much smaller, and the electrical connections the wrong size. I could probably make this work, but before I try to MacGyver this thing in, was hoping somebody had a lead on a more exact replacement. I'm coming up empty at the usual RV and truck places.

Need to be about 3" in diameter with side mounted 3/8 studs.

View attachment 144077

Can they be rebuilt like a starter or an alternator?
 
I love the CSR hive mind!

I went with Patrick’s suggestion, 500A. Should be plenty, all 4/0;wire so I doubt I need the 1000A $100. The biggest issue was finding one with 3/8” studs.

I’ll report back, this comes up from time to time, with no resolution.
 
I love the CSR hive mind!

I went with Patrick’s suggestion, 500A. Should be plenty, all 4/0;wire so I doubt I need the 1000A $100. The biggest issue was finding one with 3/8” studs.

I’ll report back, this comes up from time to time, with no resolution.

I wouldn't be so sure about that. I would put the 1K Amp in. Those engines can really draw a lot if they are stubborn to start.
 
I’m pretty sure the original was 500A.
 
Fyi
Those a rated continuous duty
So the 500A used for jumping should be no sweat
 
You'll be good with 500 amp rating. The locked rotor amperage on the QSM11 is 800 amps and cranking is 350 amps; the 3116/3126 has got to be much less.
 
You'll be good with 500 amp rating. The locked rotor amperage on the QSM11 is 800 amps and cranking is 350 amps; the 3116/3126 has got to be much less.

Dam you guys are spoiled. Detroit Diesel specifies a minimum Cold Cranking Amperage of 950 amps above 32*F, and below 32 is 1250 amps. That's a lot.
 
410 part manual shows the main battery solenoids as 200/1200, which I assume is continuous/intermittent, so I think 500 will work considering I've never needed to use it. Beside, 4/0 wire isn't rated at more than about 300A in a engine room.

I looked at the Mfg, looks to be made down in pensacola, but they only have a 1000A version. Hmmm.

upload_2023-5-10_16-43-31.png
 
This is the replacement (superceeded) for that part number through a Sea Ray dealer - about $70. New #1690833
1690833.GIF
Just an FYI. There are a number of these relays that will handle the current, but are significantly smaller in physical size, and the studs are different sizes as well.

Given the very short lengths of 4/0 wire, having the exact relay made this a 10 minute job.
 
Just an FYI. There are a number of these relays that will handle the current, but are significantly smaller in physical size, and the studs are different sizes as well.

Given the very short lengths of 4/0 wire, having the exact relay made this a 10 minute job.
I found your post and am looking for the same solenoid. Did you get it from DB electrical?
 
Would also like to know a source.
Very educational post. Thanks to all.
Just to close the loop, what is the sop when the relay fails? Wait for the genny to charge the bad bank?
 
Yes the DB Electric version. Used Patricks source listed above. Links still valid.
 

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