Electric Problem

C

Craig Soeth

New Member
Jul 22, 2009
3
I just got a 1998 370 Sundancer. Love the boat! I plugged in a heat gun in the 110 volt outlet in the cockpit to remove the old decals on the back and something popped. I looked in the controll panel and the breaker did not trip. Is there a ground fault outlet somewhere that may have tripped? I looked at all the outlets you can see and none of them were ground fault outlets. Is the outlet behind the coffee maker a groung fault? I did not get an owners manual with the boat. Can anyone help me with this?
 
You might need to look behind the microwave or refrigerator to see if the outlets that they are plugged into are GFI.

Too bad you couldn't determine a direction to the offending breaker/GFI by the sound.
 
There may be a breaker near the power cable inlet. Check that.
Also, I looked high and low for my ground fault and found it inside the locker in the head.
Your panel has toggle breagers for each circuit and a maine breaker for the main line. Check for both.
If this fails, call Sea Ray. They are very helpful and will tell you exactly where to look.
 
The 320 has a GFI in the head locker, and I think in the locker under the cockpit sink tucked way back in there. Good luck searching.

Mike
 
I believe all "inaccessible" outlets are not GFCI's units (they are connected so they are "protected" by the GFCI but do not have a "reset" feature (they are connected down-line from the actual resetable GFCI outlet). However Sea Ray has hidden a number of the GFCI's in (and under) cabinets and lockers that may need to be searched for with a hand or flash light (like in the kitchen counter locker on a 380!).
 
What good does telling someone looking for a GFI outlet location on a 37 where the outlet is located on a 32 ???? Good Grief:huh:
 
There was no cockpit outlets on a Bayliner I once saw at a boat show. Hope that helps.
 
Don you were right. I found it and it was tripped. Thanks a bunch! I have another one maybe you have seen before? Under the floor in the galley area there is a water holding box for the AC & shower drain water. That was overflowed when I got the boat. I took out the pump and there was a wad of hair stuck in it. I took the pump out and cleaned it. I then hooked it to a 12 volt battery and the pump is fine. After checking I have no power to the float switch for the pump. I could not find a blown fuse or tripped breaker. The wire going to that switch (which should be hot and is not) is brown with a orange stripe. Do you know where the other end of that wire is?
 
ImpulseIII said:
What good does telling someone looking for a GFI outlet location on a 37 where the outlet is located on a 32 ???? Good Grief:huh:
Click to expand...

Frank, I was merely trying to point out some boats had them in different places. The 320 has one in the head cabinet also. My dealer had to find the 2nd one, saying that Sea Ray had different set-ups for different boats.
Mike
 
Craig Soeth said:
Don you were right. I found it and it was tripped. Thanks a bunch! I have another one maybe you have seen before? Under the floor in the galley area there is a water holding box for the AC & shower drain water. That was overflowed when I got the boat. I took out the pump and there was a wad of hair stuck in it. I took the pump out and cleaned it. I then hooked it to a 12 volt battery and the pump is fine. After checking I have no power to the float switch for the pump. I could not find a blown fuse or tripped breaker. The wire going to that switch (which should be hot and is not) is brown with a orange stripe. Do you know where the other end of that wire is?
Click to expand...

The float switch is usually the culprit here because it gets surrounded by all the trash that flows from the a/c units and the shower. I have to clean mine about twice a year.

Start by replacing the float switch after cleaning everything. Clean the strainer in the shower and pour a little bleach through it to clean any scum out. Do the same thing with the a/c units. If they don't run regulary, and even if they do, it ID of the lines will eventually clog. They get mold, but also start to get rust the begins to accumulate from the drain pans of the a/c units after a while. Get everything clean, and then replace the float switch. (the float switch may be OK) The pump and float switch are wired in series and get their power from a block on the DC panel.....these should have no fuses or breakers to prevent accidently turning them off. The block on the DC panel is hot wired all the way to the battery.
 
Isn't one of the wires going to the switch supposed to be hot? The pump in the overflow area next to the box has a hot wire to the switch. All I did was take the hot wire from the overflow switch and hooked it to the switch in the box and it works. Maybe I should just hook the 2 switches to the same power wire?
 
The reason the pump in the adjacent overflow area has has a hot wire connected to it is because it has the ability to be turned on manually from the helm. The pump/float in the sump are only turned on by the completion of the circuit when the float rises, closing the switch.

If you want to compare the wiring of the sump to something, compare it to the lower bilge pump in the rear of the bilge. It should be automatic.
 
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