Electric Garage Heater

Interesting product - I haven't seen that before. I suppose you just use foil tape to seal it? I agree with what you mentioned about drywall vs foamboard in regards to insulation. I'm envisioning the swanky-looking, all silver ceiling, though... :wow: But that's just a personal preference. I suppose there's any number of ways to accomplish this - with the main goal being to avoid trying to heat the upper area.

I think that common sense would prevail in regards to loading. Once a few pieces of plywood are laid down to make an attic "floor", it should actually make the trusses stronger, no? Or am I not thinking of that clearly?
 
I used that bubble reflecting stuff underneath my metal roof at my river camp.

My ceiling height is only 8' 2". I'm afraid putting drywall up there will seem like a real low ceiling!
 
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Mine's only a few inches taller. I never knew it another way to compare, but I never really thought twice about the height. I guess it's a tradeoff - put up a ceiling and make it more comfortable in there with less energy needed, or keep the 'openness' and use a bunch more energy. If you put up the silver stuff, be sure to get a disco ball. :smt001
 
Lazy Daze said:
I think that common sense would prevail in regards to loading. Once a few pieces of plywood are laid down to make an attic "floor", it should actually make the trusses stronger, no? Or am I not thinking of that clearly?
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I am by no means a structural engineer, but not all trusses are created equally. The plywood may make them "stronger" when it comes to withstanding high winds, but now that you have a "floor", and are tempted to store more stuff up there, the added weight might cause issues. Especially given the span of the unsupported area.
 
I'm also far from being an engineer, but my line of thought was that the plywood is spreading the load out over a much larger area with neighboring trusses sharing the load (with the obvious caveat about common sense). Also keeping the trusses from twisting when weight is supplied. I suppose if one would check with the builder of the house/trusses, then that would definitively answer the question, but it feels like we're going way, way overboard with our concerns about what will likely only ever be 500-1,000 some odd pounds spread out over about 15 trusses. Granted it will never be spread out perfectly evenly, but in theory that's 67 pounds per truss. Again, someone please correct me if I'm heading down the wrong path here. But, at least from my experience with many, many personal/family houses and cabins, this seems pretty inconsequential. I'm sure I'm not alone with using this kind of space for storage?

I should add -- the main thing I was really getting at was that, while I mentioned stairs as a side note, he could still store the long pipes/lumber by hanging them a few inches down from the proposed ceiling... thereby not losing the storage that he's currently using.
 
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So its all set.

-Tear off existing roof and roof trusses and replace with load bearing, open space truses for proper storage in ceiling
-Wood floor in new storage space
-steps up to new storage space
-drywall ceiling and insulation between two spaces
-switch roof to metal roof
-insulate roof trusses for heat loss
-insulate entire garage

did I miss anything?
 
wish2fish said:
So its all set.

-Tear off existing roof and roof trusses and replace with load bearing, open space truses for proper storage in ceiling
-Wood floor in new storage space
-steps up to new storage space
-drywall ceiling and insulation between two spaces
-switch roof to metal roof
-insulate roof trusses for heat loss
-insulate entire garage

did I miss anything?
Click to expand...
:smt043 See how easy it is....another problem solved at CSR:smt043
 
Chris Nowell said:
You may want to do something about insulating too. I'm sure most of your btu is going towards trying to heat the great outdoors.
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That would be my suggestion. Trying to climatize a space that is uninsulated is a futile effort. Insulate first then find a heater as Dale recommended and you will be in hog heaven (it always comes back to a pig reference?).
 
While you have the roof trusses off you may as well raise the walls 2 feet so you have more headroom :grin:
 
mwph said:
Sorry Wish.

I remember a few years ago a guy inquired about resealing a deck hatch. By the end of the thread he was considering moving up in boat size by 8'.
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:smt043 That's what happened to me, I was wishing that my garage was different, gotta have room to do things and put stuff....I should have just got rid of some stuff. Here's how it ended, making room for the new building
building site.JPG
 
Of course it couldn't be that simple....a certain female decided that the site was much too pretty to have a big building on it,
building site2.jpg


so it will be turned into a beautiful grassy field for all the wildlife to enjoy....and now we are working on the new building location, I should have just gotten rid of the stuff:smt043
new site.JPG
 
wish2fish said:
So its all set.

-Tear off existing roof and roof trusses and replace with load bearing, open space truses for proper storage in ceiling
-Wood floor in new storage space
-steps up to new storage space
-drywall ceiling and insulation between two spaces
-switch roof to metal roof
-insulate roof trusses for heat loss
-insulate entire garage

did I miss anything?
Click to expand...

- Don't forget to continue that 240V around to a new, large capacity air compressor.
- Might as well not only raise the walls, but extend the garage for a longer boat, too.
- Dig out a "pit" in the floor so working under a car is super easy (I'm actually seriously considering that one)
- As long as you're paying for it, I'm sure we can keep adding to the list!
 
We'll heck, at that rate you'll be done before Christmas!
 
wish2fish said:
Haven't decided but since power consumption is a big concern, I decided to build one of these to supply power for my new garage.

cooling-towers-of-a-nuclear-power-station-150x150.jpg
Click to expand...

That's definitely overkill. 2 would suffice.
 
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