door rattle

[jim_m5]

Any clever ideas on how to stop that metal latch on the transom door from rattling as you accelerate? The metal on metal makes some noice that I wish would go away.

 

[chuck1]

Wedge a sliver of wood in it. (Grin) Sorry could not help myself Jim.

 

[Lazy Daze]

How 'bout shimming out the mount just a bit - something really, really thin, but just thick enough. Like a thin piece of aluminum (think... sheet metal). Or some small SS washers.

Maybe a black nylon strap that gets pulled tight over top of it and snaps in place. Attach the strap with a male snap stud (screw shank) slightly below the metal latch. Put a female snap at the other end of the strap. Put another male snap above the metal latch. Your 260DA might have had something similar.

Oh, also try tightening the door's piano hinge.

 

[JediJD]

One of my early add's was a piece of hollow white self adhesive window insulation to the inside of the transom door jamb. It stopped my rattle.

 

[Scottzzzy]

A little window weatherstripping that is self adhesive will take the gap out! Those kind of rattles drive me nuts too!

 

[Uplate]

I had the rattling issue as well.

whats odd is the transom door sometimes is easy to close and latch, and other times it is a bear. Must be a temperature expanding/contracting thing. A real mystery for me.

It is never the same when latching via the sliding bolt.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I had the rattling issue as well.

whats odd is the transom door sometimes is easy to close and latch, and other times it is a bear. Must be a temperature expanding/contracting thing. A real mystery for me.

It is never the same when latching via the sliding bolt.

I've noticed the same thing. Could also be that there is just enough flex between the transom locker side and the hull side of the opening. I've never thought about it much more than that, though. :huh:

 

[Larry]

If the rattle is excesive, it may be a tell tale sign that your props may be slightly out of ballence. My transom door latch started rattling a few years ago and as soon as I had my props Prop Scaned and brought up to class "S" all the rattling went away. All the things mentioned will minimize or eliminate the rattling but it may be putting a band aid on an underlying problem.


Just my $.02

 

[jim_m5]

What I need to do is coat the sliding bolt with something that will still allow it to slide in and out of the catch. It has to be a very thin coat of something? It is the bolt that rattles against the plate (i.e. metal on metal). Could it be as simple as a piece of duck tape? I think the props are ok. it is not a terrible ratlle and only happens while accelerating to plane at ~3k rpms

 

[Lazy Daze]

What I need to do is coat the sliding bolt with something that will still allow it to slide in and out of the catch. It has to be a very thin coat of something? It is the bolt that rattles against the plate (i.e. metal on metal). Could it be as simple as a piece of duck tape? I think the props are ok. it is not a terrible ratlle and only happens while accelerating to plane at ~3k rpms

You're referring to the "socket", right? (as opposed to the bolt rattling within it's "holder" - sorry about using such a technical term:smt001) I wouldn't put anything on the bolt/slide - it'll just get worn away quickly. Tape will get messy.

All of the above things will move the bolt closer to one of the sidewalls of the socket, serving the same purpose as adding something to the bolt - but on a more permanent level.

You could also replace the metal socket with a nylon one. It won't eliminate the rattle (unless it just happens to be a slightly different size), but it will cut down on the loudness.

Still, though, try tightening the hinge first. It may not help - but then again...

 

[Hampton]

Both of my Sea Rays have done this. For the open position, I glued a rubber chair leg bottom over the fitting that came with the boat. I have to lean against it to latch it open now - it's very tight. On the hook, the boat rocks and the door used to make noise at the latch jiggled back and forth. Even with that, the door will not remain open while cruising, probably due to flex.

For closing, I moved the latch so that you have to lean against it to latch it. It doesn't rattle and it stays latched.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Jim, my appologies - I must have been a little foggy this morning. Shimming it, as I suggested, would not help at all. I'm betting you guys knew that but were just being too kind to say anything:smt001

What would work, is sanding the mounting block slightly, or if there is no starboard mounting block, slightly recessing the mounting area of the actual door.