Do I need a new anchor?

Conditions that can bend the shank of our anchors might also just roll them out. Maybe different anchoring techniques should be used. More scope, more chain, more anchors?
 
Woody said:
Conditions that can bend the shank of our anchors might also just roll them out.
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Agreed. I’ve never been interested in this style of anchor for that very reason.

Big or small, I’ve always used cast iron fluke style anchors. Try to roll one of them out of place.
 
Soulshine said:
Agreed. I’ve never been interested in this style of anchor for that very reason.

Big or small, I’ve always used cast iron fluke style anchors. Try to roll one of them out of place.
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Bingo....you need a better anchor
 
To op, that bend isn’t a big deal, use it the way it is or straighten it out if you don’t like the way it looks. It will be fine.
If you’re serious about your ground tackle, get a new generation anchor and never look back. Replacing that with another plow is like replacing a BW tv with another one. Save your money in my opinion. Anybody here that knows me knows I don’t upgrade or replace anything that isn’t broke that isn’t safety critical, But those anchors just don’t cut the mustard for being a serious anchor for spending days at anchor and not worrying about how hard the winds going to blow tomorrow. It all depends on how you’re going to use the boat. Lunch hooking and sleeping like a baby in nasty wind are two different things. Before you do anything, maybe you should check out “ Anchoring, a ground tacklers apprentice” by Rudy and Jill Sanchez, it’s simple and straight forward. Maybe you will decide to just replace it, or straighten it as is, but you will know a lot more about anchoring afterwards. There are also many other really good reads on the subject.
 
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W
scoflaw said:
That Kodiak is a piece of crap, has absolutely no lateral strength. Bending and straightening was a yearly thing for me.

It bends when the anchor sets, then wind or current shifts and pulls on it sideways.
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What, were you anchoring in a CAT-5 Hurricane?? :)
 
Interesting, but to all those just starting to research anchors, beware of anchor tests that are sponsored by anchor manufacturers.
This isn’t the first rodeo for those boys from Fortress. They know that their anchors are hands down the best for mud, especially soft mud, so where else to have a little friendly competition than in the Chesapeake.
Note how well the plain Jane danforth did, that’s just where those styles shine. What they don’t tell you is they are the worst choice for weedy bottoms or that they are near worthless in hard sand because their light weight doesn’t allow for enough weight on the fluke tips to start bottom penetration. They also do not do well when turned out, they have a problem resetting, and Fortress' are more likely to turn out because Fortress actually recommends a relatively short piece of chain on a combination rode. My anchor drag apps have always shown me that my all chain rode has never allowed my anchor to be turned out, even when anchoring in narrow tidal creeks, just too much weight laying on the bottom.
That said they are great for storage as they can be stored disassembled and put together in 10 minutes or less. And their light weight makes them tops as a stern anchor that I can easily carry out in my dinghy and drop. I have two of the fortress, a big one as a back up bower and a smaller one that I use for the stern. While cruising the Bahamas, I hung the fortress on the bow rail along with 250' of line ready at a moments notice. The wind blows what seems like all the time there in the winter.
For all and various conditions, it’s just my opinion that the new generation anchors are hard to beat, but everyone has to make their own determination based on fit to the bow roller, whether there will be interference with the tip and fiberglass when at rest or hauling it over the roller, bottom types most encountered etc.
IMG_8629.JPG
 
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my3sons said:
Before you do anything, maybe you should check out “ Anchoring, a ground tacklers apprentice” by Rudy and Jill Sanchez, it’s simple and straight forward. Maybe you will decide to just replace it, or straighten it as is, but you will know a lot more about anchoring afterwards.
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CSR never fails to surprise me. I just wanted a simple answer about my anchor! And while I got that, we got into a nice discussion about anchors, anchor repair, etc. Thank you to all! For the time being, I'm probably going to use the anchor as is and see how it performs. My near term anchoring needs are low stress (pun intended), so I'm sure it will perform fine. But it is on the "To Do" list to either straighten or replace. In the mean time, with Fathers' Day coming, I'm going to drop hints for that book Mark recommended. Looks like an informative read. I'll admit I don't keep "which anchor is best for what conditions" info floating around in my head...
 
I just bought a 65 pound galvanized mantis for my 44 2007 Sundancer it seems to have a very long shank on it I was wanting to know if any other 44 owners have that same anchor and did they have to make any modifications to make it fit or did fit in ok?
 
Whatever you do, DON’T modify the shank and you won’t find a shop on earth to do it for you lest you both wind up in prison.

After all, an anchor is a “vital piece of safety equipment”.

:p @ MM
 
Boater71 said:
hi M Prod, how is that anchor working for you? i bent my 25lbs plow anchor and looking to get a new one.
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its been great! Definitely a marked improvement from my old CQR anchor. We spent about 30 nights or so on the hook last summer and never had an issue with catching or holding. Structurally it’s solid. It was a great buy.
 
thanks - that will be my next buy!!!
 
That thing is going to snap the very next time you use it. Clearly the only solution is a shiny new SS anchor, for safety reasons of course. (at least that's how my thought process works :) )

back to reality, that anchor is probably good for another 20 years, as is.
 
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