- Oct 18, 2008
- 949
- Boat Info
- 1989 340 EC
- Engines
- 7.4LX2 Hurth 630A Drives
6.5Kw QS Genny
If you have about 30 minutes and the parts this is a very easy, and cheap way to make your own oil changer to use in the spring for that messy business of draining oil. The parts you will need are very simple and not that expensive. I have yet to hook it to the boat and pump it out, but I have pumped 5qts out of a drain bucket and back into the jug.
Please see disclaimers at bottom!!
1) fluid pump. I got one from Harbor Freight on sale for $29. There is someone on EBAy selling a very similar oil change setup for $80+. The Marine pump they have is rated at 23' lift and 240Gal per hour.
2) Washer hoses, I had some old ones laying around since I just got a new washer and dryer.
3) An old 5 gal bucket.
4) some extra wire and whatever switch you would like to use.
Here's the junk I started out with:
I cut one of the hoses so that it would sit about 3/4 of the way in the bucket, I cut it at an angle to keep it from plugging up.
Thread the hose onto the pump and insert into the open hole, I mounted my pump off center to make it easier to unscrew the hose and pour out the old oil without removing the lid.
After you thread the line and insert it in the hole now is the time to screw the pump to the lid. As you can tell I just used sheet metal screws which bite into the plastic just fine!
Screw the other hose on to attach to the dipstick. You can take the other side of the washer hose and get tubing to make an adapter to use in case you want to force the tube down the dipstick.
The two things I have not done yet because I didn't have the parts are to
1) add 10 or 12 ft of wire to make the clips reach all the way down in the heart of the bilge to reach the batteries.
2) In the wire near the top (where I would splice the additional wire) add some type of switch (rocker, toggle, whatever) to allow me to control the pump without needing to reach down to the clips.
Disclaimer: As I said earlier, I have yet to hook this up to the boat and try it, but you can see it took me about 15-20 minutes to put this all together. I'll let you know when I actually drain the oil and see how long it takes.
Note: This is not to pump Diesel, NitroMethane, Nitroglycerin, or any other explosive or highly flammable liquids. The pump is not ignition protected, so be sure to vent the area of all fuel vapors prior to use. This pump is manufactured for Harbor Freight and therefore only has a one year limited warranty, there are other product which may have longer life. The main point was to show how easy it is to mount a pump to a bucket and run the output line inside to change your oil, also to show there are people paying $80-$100 for what appears to be the exact same thing on Ebay.
Please see disclaimers at bottom!!
1) fluid pump. I got one from Harbor Freight on sale for $29. There is someone on EBAy selling a very similar oil change setup for $80+. The Marine pump they have is rated at 23' lift and 240Gal per hour.
2) Washer hoses, I had some old ones laying around since I just got a new washer and dryer.
3) An old 5 gal bucket.
4) some extra wire and whatever switch you would like to use.
Here's the junk I started out with:
I cut one of the hoses so that it would sit about 3/4 of the way in the bucket, I cut it at an angle to keep it from plugging up.
Thread the hose onto the pump and insert into the open hole, I mounted my pump off center to make it easier to unscrew the hose and pour out the old oil without removing the lid.
After you thread the line and insert it in the hole now is the time to screw the pump to the lid. As you can tell I just used sheet metal screws which bite into the plastic just fine!
Screw the other hose on to attach to the dipstick. You can take the other side of the washer hose and get tubing to make an adapter to use in case you want to force the tube down the dipstick.
The two things I have not done yet because I didn't have the parts are to
1) add 10 or 12 ft of wire to make the clips reach all the way down in the heart of the bilge to reach the batteries.
2) In the wire near the top (where I would splice the additional wire) add some type of switch (rocker, toggle, whatever) to allow me to control the pump without needing to reach down to the clips.
Disclaimer: As I said earlier, I have yet to hook this up to the boat and try it, but you can see it took me about 15-20 minutes to put this all together. I'll let you know when I actually drain the oil and see how long it takes.
Note: This is not to pump Diesel, NitroMethane, Nitroglycerin, or any other explosive or highly flammable liquids. The pump is not ignition protected, so be sure to vent the area of all fuel vapors prior to use. This pump is manufactured for Harbor Freight and therefore only has a one year limited warranty, there are other product which may have longer life. The main point was to show how easy it is to mount a pump to a bucket and run the output line inside to change your oil, also to show there are people paying $80-$100 for what appears to be the exact same thing on Ebay.
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