Dinghy Outboard Motor Winterizing Questions

[Alex F]

I just picked up 4HP Tohatsu 4-stroke motor and looking to winterize it. I read the manual, but still would like to clarify few things, since this is my first outboard.

- How do you guys flash the engine? It looks like there’s some kind of fitting that connects where the PEE comes out. Is this the right spot? Where do I get the fitting and how to get the plug out? What’s the proper way to flush the engine? I can’t understand how it works if I run the city water in to exhaust and run the engine. I'm guessing that I'm thinking of a wrong spot where the hose gets connected to, otherwise where would the exhaust come out?

- Do you guys use regular procedure to run the engine and use fogging oil to lubricate carburetor? Manual say to take the spark out and use storage oil. I’ve never used this method.
- Do you guys take all the fuel out of the tank (I have integral tank) as per manual or do you add fuel stabilizer? I’m concerned about the plastic tank and ethanol combination, which I’ve herd may cause damage to the tank.

Thanks for any suggestions,
Alex.

 

[Blueone]

I have the same Tohatsu 4hp ...I have never flushed it as I am in fresh water so can't help you there. Winterizing.. I change the Gear oil and engine oil. I also drain all gasoline including the carb bowl... for some reason I have trouble with my carb getting the jets plugged up...so I drain the bowl a lot if it is going to sit for a few weeks at a time even during the summer. As far as fogging I don't do that. I just remove the spark plug and add fogging oil and crank a few times without starting it. Fogging the engine while it is running would be better if you can figure out the cooling

 

[Alex F]

Dan,
I would imagine that fugging procedure shouldn't be any different from how I did it on my carburatored 175BR with 135HP I/O. I have a large garbage can that I'll fill with water where I'll place the motor in. This will allow me to run the engine. While running I would spray fogging oil to the carburator and the motor shall stole. Then, I'm planning to add the fogging oil to the cylinder by taking the plug out.

I guess, since these are such a small motors it's easy to drain the fuel and let it sit dry over the winter.

Is there a special procedure to drain the water or is it just going to drain out from the bottom when the motor is shut?

 

[Alex F]

Does anyone else winterizes their outboard for dinghy?

 

[Lazy Daze]

I always winterize/fog anything with an engine - weed whacker, chain saw, etc. Including my little 7.5 Evinrude. Granted, this is a 2-cycle, but same difference.

I use stabilizer year round as I believe it helps to keep the fuel system cleaner.

Aside from having the stabil in there, I spray the fogging oil directly into the carb as it starts to run out of fuel (I disconnect the fuel line from the engine). It only takes a few squirts with these little guys.

Lastly, I'll pull the spark plug(s) and dribble a teaspoon or two of straight 30 (or spray fogging oil directly in if I don't have any 30wt laying around). Then, I s-l-o-w-l-y pull the cord to turn the engine over a couple times. If you pull too fast, a lot of the oil will shoot back out the plug hole.

Yes, water will drain right out with the engine vertical.

Dan: Don't worry about ethanol harming your plastic tank (assuming it's polyethylene).

Also, Dan, to try and fix that gumming-up issue: Try running a few tanks of gas treated with a healthy triple-dose of stabilizer. Then, use the stabilizer year-round.

 

[rondds]

Alex
I had a 3.5hp Tohatsu (internal tank) for two years and never winterized it. I kept it in the basement during the off season. Just emptied out the tank. I flushed it out after each use during the season by sticking it into a bucket of water and running it for a minute or two. This was easy to do since it weighed about 30lbs. Not sure if the 4hp is too heavy to do that. If it is, you could rig something up outside (on, say, a handtruck) and run it in a spackle bucket filled with pink antifreeze. Then pull the plug(s), squirt in some fogging spray, pull the cord to move piston(s) up and down and you're done.

 

[Alex F]

Thanks for the tips guys,

Ron,
Did your motor have flushing fitting or is this something new they resently starting to come with? The unit is closer to 60lb. I do have a stant and fabricated large garbage can for running it when at home. I was trying to understand how that flushing fitting works so I can flush it next season after using the dink during the weekends.

I'm planning to stor the motor in my garage. I don't think it gets to a freezing point, but I'll do a quick test to see where the water intake is and see if I can supply some pink, if it's not a big deal. I don't want to overkill a simple task either. Basement is an idea. I guess, if the fuel is out it shouldn't stink so much the surrounding area. May be covering it with large garbage bag will help as well.

 

[berth control]

I've never really "winterized" any outboard. I do change the gear lube annually and drain the carb bowl (or just unhook the gas tank and run it 'til it dies) every year, but that's not really "winterizing". Never had a problem either. I don't know anyone that winterizes their outboards.

I have an 88 honda 5hp four stroke, never really been "winterized" and it runs like new.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I've never really "winterized" any outboard. I do change the gear lube annually and drain the carb bowl (or just unhook the gas tank and run it 'til it dies) every year, but that's not really "winterizing". Never had a problem either. I don't know anyone that winterizes their outboards.

I have an 88 honda 5hp four stroke, never really been "winterized" and it runs like new.

I probably shouldn't have used the term "winterize" up above as no draining of water or adding AF is needed.

But, an engine is an engine is an engine. It's still got cylinders and moving parts. IMO, still a darn good idea to put some fogging fluid through it.

 

[berth control]

I probably shouldn't have used the term "winterize" up above as no draining of water or adding AF is needed.

But, an engine is an engine is an engine. It's still got cylinders and moving parts. IMO, still a darn good idea to put some fogging fluid through it.

I agree completely. :thumbsup:

 

[Alex F]

I guess, it depends where the motor is stored and if the temps drop below 32F. I never had a thermometer in my garage, but I assume it doesn't drop below the freezing point. Probably the "long term storage" applies better vs. winterizing, but we all know what we mean when we say winterizing. I actually wasn't sure if these motors need antifreeze. But, if the water runs out when the unit is in vertical position, then obviously it's a waste. I'll perform all the items we've discussed and start with keeping my motor in the garage. If I see that the temps are dropping I'll use Ron's suggestion to move it to the basement.

 

[berth control]

Freezing won't matter, I live in Michigan and keep mine in cold storage.

 

[rondds]

Alex
I don't know if my outboard had a flush connection. It was a 2005 model year. If you drain out the gas you won't get any smell in the house. I used to put it back in the box (styrofoam coffin) it came in, inside a plastic bag.

As for garage temps, since we don't live all that far away from each other, you can use my garage as a model - and mine gets into the mid 20's at times. My garage is open on 3 sides and above. Check your car's thermometer when you get in in the morning. They're pretty accurate.

 

[osd9]

I have a 5hp 2 stroke, with a built in fuel tank, that is self draining. It stays on the back of the dinghy, outside, 7/24/365. When not in use, it is covered. After each use I stick a big bucket under it, shut the fuel valve, and let it flush with fresh water till the fuel in the bowl runs out.

The only thing I do differently for the winter, actually I do this around the September time frame, is that I add some stabilizer to the fuel.

Otherwise, it sits outside all winter, on the back of the dink, under the cover.

It's 4 years old and so far it looks and runs like the day it was born.

 

[Alex F]

As for garage temps, since we don't live all that far away from each other, you can use my garage as a model - and mine gets into the mid 20's at times.

Wow, how quickly I tend to forget about how cold it gets. I never cared about garage temps, but now that I plan to keep the motor in there I'll monitor. By some reason I was under the impression that mine is warmer than 20s.

I have a 5hp 2 stroke, with a built in fuel tank, that is self draining. It stays on the back of the dinghy, outside, 7/24/365. When not in use, it is covered. After each use I stick a big bucket under it, shut the fuel valve, and let it flush with fresh water till the fuel in the bowl runs out.

The only thing I do differently for the winter, actually I do this around the September time frame, is that I add some stabilizer to the fuel.

Dom,
That's great. I guess, even with minimum care these little motors survive well. Great tip on running the bowl empty. Looks like I'll be using the bucket method to flush the engine until I found more about the flushing fitting and how it works.

 

[rondds]

Alex, your garage may vary. If you have living space above and along side your garage, it will stay warmer than mine. It's definitely warmer than outside always. But when you get a steady cold streak, things will even out a bit. Save yourself the grief and run it dry, close the gas cap and vent and stick it in the basement. You will NOT get any gasoline smell.

 

[mrsrobinson]

Own a 2 year old Tohatsu 5HP 4 stroke. I add Stabil to the tank, let it run for a few minutes and then disconnect the fuel hose from the engine side leaving the engine running until it shuts down. I do this on a saw horse with the prop sitting in a 5 gallon bucket of pink antifreeze.

2 seasons in a row she started on the first pull in the spring.

 

[ImpulseIII]

Where is my T shirt ?

 

[quality time]

Club Regal not as good as Club Sea Ray? :grin:

 

[Alex F]

Did my motor winter storage prep today. Boy, I wish the mians on my boat were that easy. I was also surprized that when I closed the fuel valve it took like 5 min to run it dry. I thought that the valve was broken and gave it a little thruttle to speed up the burning rate. But, eventually it stole. It was imperssive to see how little fuel this motor takes.

I have a quick question about air valve on the gas tank. Does it have to stay open at all times or only during the startup? When I was doing the sea trial of the motor the PO opened the valve to start it. I left it open and took off, the engine would not get the boat on plane just with me on board. I came back frustraited, so PO told me to close the air valve. When I did close the valve the motor performed very differently and all went well.

Manual states to open the air valve when starting but doesn't say anything about when to close it. How do you guys use it?