Dinette table aluminum base is broken

wprice0511

New Member
Jun 9, 2008
31
The base for the dinette table on my boat was broken when I bought it. (it's an '85 Sundancer 260, by the way) Apparently, someone was in the cabin in rough seas, leaned too hard on the table and the aluminum mount broke and pulled out of the floor.

In looking at the floor where the base mount, it's clear this has happened before. Someone re-drilled new screw holes.

Now, I could just buy a new one, pick a set of screw holes and screw it back in. However, I would prefer to fix this in a way that prevents it from happening again. It appears that the aluminum base (where the pole for the table sticks in) was bedded into the floor and there is some real dense foam in that area, which has loosened. I'm presuming that's a safety feature for flotation?

Has anyone made this repair? My thought was not only to screw the base in, but also epoxy it into the hole. I suspect the expoxy may eat away at the foam, though. Before I research this, or go to a lot of trouble, I wanted to see if anyone has dealt with this.

Any suggestions out there?
 
I forgot to add my plan 'B'. I thought about bracing it somehow. Perhaps someone's done that?

Thanks,
 
Do you have pictures?>
Is there space beneath the base to through bolt it?
 
No, unfortunately I don't have pics. I'll be up at the boat this weekend and get some.

It does not look like you can through bolt is based on my recollection. I will take another look at it this weekend though.

Thanks,
 
Well I've reinforced the cockpit table with a ring matching the dia of the base. I drilled and tapped the ring to match the bolt pattern.
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If you don't have the access beneath, but you have a void beneath your base you can drill a 2" or slightly larger hole, cut the ring in half, after you have tapped the hole pattern in it. Slip each half of the ring in the hole attaching cut off bolts or lengths of all-thread to the tapped holes. This will allow you to pull the ring half up through the base to attach the new mounting screws to individually. I hope that makes sense
 
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West Systems epoxy should be your best friend in this case.

The foam under the floor is there for sound deadening and not flotation, so dig out all that is in the way. Working thru whatever access hole you have, epoxy (use thickened West Systems) in strips of 3/4" marine plywood or use aluminum as Todd suggests. The plywood has an advantage in that it can be drawn into place and held with screws while the epoxy cures. Lather up the plywood well and make a mess if you need to.....its under the floor and you won't see it or have to clean it up. When you get a solid reinforcement under the floor, remove the screws holding the plywood and go about filling the holes in the boat cabin floor. Again use West Systems Epoxy thickened with #403 microfibers. When you get the holes filled, the floor patched, and ready for the aluminum base, sand it flat then then top coat it with a coat of West Systems to seal the wood and screw in the table pedestal.

If you do not know about West Systems products, order their Technical Maunal & Product Guide (#002-950) and Fiberglass Boat Repair and Maintenance (#002-550) publications.........they are well worth the cost, whatever it is.
 
Wow! Thanks a lot for the help. Great pictures and great advice. I am familiar with West Sytems. I've done a little bit of repair work in the past.

I'm going to get into it this weekend and decide on an approach. Thanks again for the great help on this.
 
Great idea with the reinforcement ring. Be advised that aluminum and stainless steel are incompatible and will corrode.
Electrolysis.

dg
 

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