Digital Camera recommendations

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hack4alivin

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Apr 18, 2008
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My Daughter wants a Cannon SLR Digital Camera for Christmas. She has show an interest in photography and has done some very creative work with Photoshop. I don’t want to take a second mortgage to get one but at the same time I know good ones don’t come cheap either. (600 to 1000 range is where I’m looking)

I know we have some good photographers on this site so your thoughts and ideas on a camera are welcome.
 
I really like the Canon 7D (thinking about buying one soon). As you probably know, the lenses are almost as important as the camera.

Here is a great sight for checking some of these out- they can go into a great amount of detail (over my head). http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sidebyside.asp If you narrow your search to a particular camera be sure and check out the Review/preview link on the left of the screen . It gives you a crazy amount of detail and tests results. The navigation window for this is under the title of the camera you have selected.
 
If you're looking only at Canon then your best bet is the EOS Digital Rebel T1i in the $800 range. On the Nikon side, the D5000 is a great choice for the same price. Both come with a basic lens for that price.

I own the D5000 and love it. The Canon has more megapixels but that is irrelevant if the image sensor can't process them properly. I owned the T1i but returned it because I felt the images were soft and less vibrant than the Nikon. That's just me though. Both are great cameras for the money and both will shoot HD video too.
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Good point on the price range. I missed that in the OP.

Like boating, buy as much as you can afford (in the camera body) now. Then, when you/she can afford it, you upgrade your lenses. My recommendation would be to get the best camera body (with a minimal 55 mm lens). Then make a goal of getting the 18-200mm 3.5-5.6 Canon lens that's all the rage right now (this lens alone is $600.00).

Try to steer away from the "kits" that entice you to get it all for one price - without first checking into buying the body only with a lens you really want.
 
Lenses are what differentiate a good SLR and DSLR from a crappy one. Beyond a doubt both Canon and Nikon make the best lenses and bodies. Therefore, you can select from either of the two.

Since you asked about Canon, I'll concentrate on them. Within Canon's line you'll find two levels, the D series, which are more performance orientated and the Rebel series, which are more consumer orientated. In general the Ds have metal bodies, more features and controls, and upgraded performance. The sensors and Digic processors are roughly the same, but not exactly the same parts. The Rebels tend to have more plastic parts and fewer features. The software is also different. Within the D series you'll find APS-C and full sized sensors. Discounted the 50D, the lowest priced body, is barely within your budget constraints. Adding a decent lens will put you well over a grand. That leaves the Rebels, which are good cameras. You're going to have to juggle features and performance Rebel T1i, Rebel XSi and Rebel XS with the cost of a good lens or set of lenses.

I don't care for the low-end packaged lenses that Canon makes. While the optical performance is OK, the build quality isn't great (all plastic including the important lens mount), and they can be difficult to use manually. The "package" lens is usually the Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Autofocus Lens which is about a $140 lens. It's OK. But much better is the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM Zoom Lens -- about a grand. No surprise there that it's better. There is a EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM lens that's priced about mid-way. A good lens. Note that, except for the EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 lens, the others are relatively slow lenses. I typically like having at least one 50mm fixed focal length lens of about f/1.4 for indoors and other situations where lighting isn't bright.

Have fun. Good luck.

Best regards,
Frank
 
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Bill

I have been researching this topic as well. I decided that the best deal seems to be a Canon Ti1. I actually purchased a Canon T1i from B&H photo last week, a 2 lense kit for $824. Discover card had some promotion that I wanted to take advantage of, that I didnt learn about until after my purchase, so I cancelled my order so I could switch cards. When I went to re-order the 2 lens kit, it was no longer available. They have the camera with a single lense for $719.

I am going to wait for the 2 lens kit deal to come back before I make a purchase (since it is for me, I don't have a Christmas deadline)

You might want to check these reviews out.

BTW, the camera does not come with a memory card, so if you want to use it right away, you should order an SD card.

Happy Shopping!

http://digital-cameras.toptenreviews.com/professional-dslr/

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/CanonEOS500D/

http://www.digitalcamerareview.com/default.asp?newsID=4010&review=canon+rebel+t1i
 
I have been looking at Digital SLR's Canon specifically - since I already have EOS lens - so what do folks do with their 35mm film cameras keep them - if so do you ever use them?
 
I have an older non-EOS Canon SLR that I still use occasionally. There are things that one can do with emulsion prints that don't work so well digitally. Besides the A-1 is a classic.
 
Bill,

You can't go wrong with either Canon or Nikon. If your daughter generally shoots action shots (wildlife, sports) consider the vibration reduction lens from Nikon and Canon (VR and IS terminology respectively). This improves the lens speed by over 2 F-Stops which is very important at long focal lengths. This is electronic enhancement at it's best.....it really works. I have pictures taken with the Nikon 70-200mm 2.8VR (probably one of the best Nikon lens ever made, but it's expensive $1700 5 years ago) at 12 hours Sebring sports car race (cars going 150MPH) that are as good as any magazine images and my youngest daughter wakeboarding that look like a wakeboard advertizement. Also look at the out of focus area around an in focus image with a wide open lens, this is called bokeh or something like that. The better lens use more fingers in the apature which makes for a more pleasing out of focus image area. This is important if you mostly shoot portraits.

Get the best body you can affort and don't get too involved in # of pixels (6M is fine for just about everything until you print greater than 8X10), what is important is the image chip size. This directly relates to the chip sensitivity which is very important. This is what you are paying for in the higher priced bodies. A full frame or 1:1 chip is very expensive because it's the same size as 35mm film. You can get an idea of the relative chip size to a full frame 35mm by the focal lenght multiplier used with older non-digital lens. The Nikon D70 I think has a 1.5 multiplier which means the chip diagonal is 1/1.5 as big as 35mm film. Since the image is impressed across a smaller area the result looks like it is magnified by the same amount.

Anyway get the best body you can afford and I would consider a single high quality vibration reduction lens for starters. You will soon accumulate many more $ in lens than you invest in the body, this is what keeps you with Nikon or Canon, it's the lens not the body!!

I have Nikon from way back but think that Canon may offer a slightly better value. If you get a Nikon body get the 50mm F1.8 plastic lens for $80 from B&H as a side lens if it's still available. This lens was a mistake by Nikon. They wanted a cheap lens for a cheap film SLR way back, so they designed a cheap lens with cheap glass and plastic case made in China. Well the cheap glass characteristics helped correct some of the cheap design drawbacks to such an extent that this lens produces images that are as good if not better that the high end ~$400 50mm lens. Long ago I heard about this and got one for $80 and it is really good....tack sharp at the image edges. I took an image of a full frame tree at F16 with water on the leaves in bright sunlight, the leaf water sparkles at the image edge all the way around were as sharp as the center. A cheap lens will be fuzzy around the image edges, so this was a cheap lens with expensive performance in the sharpness area.
 
I have been leaning in the Cannon T1i direction. Sounds like several here think it would be good as well. It looks like a good starter camera for her, something she can learn and build up if she wants. Trouble with kids though (She’s 18) you never know just what direction they will head :smt021so I don’t want to dump a ton of money in it. She is very creative though and is headed into the graphic arts field, so a starter camera would be my plan.
 
hack4alivin said:
I have been leaning in the Cannon T1i direction. Sounds like several here think it would be good as well. It looks like a good starter camera for her, something she can learn and build up if she wants. Trouble with kids though (She’s 18) you never know just what direction they will head :smt021so I don’t want to dump a ton of money in it. She is very creative though and is headed into the graphic arts field, so a starter camera would be my plan.
Click to expand...

I own a marketing firm.We have designers in-house. One has a Nikon. Seems popular with folks. That being said, our design stuff seems to be moving more and more online and less print oriented. So resolution is becoming less important for our stuff. I am looking for my own use, on the boat - hiking... the T1i or the Xsi would probably meet my needs. Seems as if the T1i has the latest processor.
 
Forgot to mention repeative images and how quick and deep in the memory buffer you can go. These are important for action shots like a ball game, being able to fire off 5 shots at full resolution in 1 second. These are how the pros get the amazing images you see, they take a fast burst and pick the best one. A coworker was trying to get images of her sons playing football with a point and shoot and not having any success. She got a good quality Nikon and VR lens, then learned how to shoot in burst mode, now she has images she can frame. BTW if you like to shoot action shots like ball games or races get a monopod and learn how to use it. Makes a big difference and it's cheap.
 
I know you said in the post, this is for your daughter, however, if you can, go somewhere, where you can handle each of the models you end up being interested in at the same time. I found the rebel series didn't feel as nice in my hand as my old AE-1. The D series does feel good. The menus and such on each of the canon are very similar. Just another input point for your decision.
-VtSeaRay
 
Happy Thanksgiving! I am also looking for a new digital camera, but one that can fit in my pocket if need be and was considering the Canon G11 or the Nikon P6000 ? any thoughts also I am old school and like to look thur a range finder.
 
John Hampton and I(and I'm sure others) have had good luck with the Canon Elph Series (also called the canon powershot). See this link http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sidebyside.asp to check out the different Elph's. I like how natural the color saturation is on the canon's and how fast they are now.

Again, I would go to a local store once you get a couple you're interested in, and play with them. Unfortunately, after I got mine, I realized how much of a pain it is to turn it on (they put the on/off button in a crease). I wish I'd have caught that when I went to the store to get it. The previous model I'd had, the power button was just a close button next to the shooting button. So, with one hand, I could hit the power button, and then in 1-2 seconds, I could slide over 1/2" or less, and start pressing to get the shots I wanted.

Below is one with a "rangefinder" lens to look thru. After getting used to IS (Image Stabalization) I wouldn't get a camera without it now. Especially in these smaller units, but it's also great in the larger DSLR's with longer lenses.

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs/Canon/canon_sd1200is.asp


 
I have more than two Canon cameras.

My view is straight forward: The quality -and capabilites- of most Nikon and Canon cameras on the market today exceed the capabilities of most photographers. And a good photographer will easily overcome the few limitations the lower end cameras impose.

The statement that the Canon Rebels and T1i are mostly plastic, and that the Canon X0D's (40D, 50D) are metal and more durable is correct. HOWEVER. . . the Canon Rebels are not junk. For everyday use, they are adequately robust, and probably will go obsolete long before they wear out.

Having dealt with the old 10D, original dRebel, as well as the more recent XTi, XSi, and 40D; I can tell you two things;

1) In terms of Megapixels, all these cameras have jumped the shark. Sure. . more is better. . .but the bottom line is ALL of them have ENOUGH.

2) In terms of image quality, what I have seen in the Canon's is that the more recent camera has the better sensor**. The XSi is superior to the 40D which in turn was superior to the earlier XTI, which in turn was superior to the (still earlier) 30D/20D cameras.

Having said this, what I see as most important for the camera body is how it feels in your hand. The key is being comfortable with the weight and feel of the tool. For small handed people, the 40D and 50D is often simply too big and heavy. The admiral hates using my 40D; while I find her XTi to be feather weight. Same with a XSi of another relation.

SO you must SEE the cameras. . .and go from there. All of them (Nikon and Canon) are good photographic tools.

As for lenses. . . . good glass will last longer than a body. I still use Canon lenses from the early 1990's on my dSLR's. I expect the lenses I bought with my 10D several years ago to be used on my NEXT dSLR. So be a bit snooty about lenses. :)

The 18-55/IS kit lens is really good for the money: I recommend this as a starter lens for the "bang for the buck" factor. Don't fear the plastic mount. I am still carrying my "plastic fantastic" 50/1.8 that I bought 15 years ago.

I tend to sneer at the rest of the EF-S lens line because they seem a bit overpriced for what they are, and cannot be used on older film cameras or on the higher end "full frame" cameras. The exceptions in my mind are the 18-55/IS (bang for buck!) and the 10-22/EF-S; which has no "EF" lens equivilent. The 17-55/2.8 IS is a nice lens . . . .I can understand the $1K price, but I personally would never pay so much for a "Non Pro", "crop factor" lens. And I do carry several expensive lenses in my day bag.

The 18-200. . .I saw this lens today, and I was not thrilled with the double barrel extension design. I am also skeptical of the image quality of any "hyper zoom" (Hyper zoom > Lens with a focal length range that is HUGE, like more than 5:1)

So for a "kit", the 18-55/EF-s is a good starter; It does pair well with the 55-250 zoom ($299); although if your budding photographer is starting to reach for MORE and you are willing to invest, I would jump to the 70-300/IS zoom.

_ _ _ _

** The 50D got some mixed reviews after it's release related to high-ISO noise. I have not followed the review recently to see how the camera is proving itself over time.

*** The 7D, 1D and 5D cameras are different beasts, in a different price category.
 
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velooce said:
Happy Thanksgiving! I am also looking for a new digital camera, but one that can fit in my pocket if need be and was considering the Canon G11 or the Nikon P6000 ? any thoughts also I am old school and like to look thur a range finder.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the Admiral is a huge viewfinder fan. For ALL the point and shoots, you need to get over that bias. Really, the POWER of the point and shoot (besides small size) is the LCD screen on the back. This "feature", unfortunately is also the reason these cameras suffer in terms of "shutter lag" (the noticable time lag between pressing the button and taking the picture).

The G11 has been getting rave reviews. Check this one out: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/kidding.shtml
Yup. A comparison of the G11 to a $40,000 Hasselblad. And the author is in the league were a $40K camera is justified.

I just heard about the Canon S90. Ergonomically, a disaster (in my view); but earlier Sx0 cameras shared the same imaging system with the G series cameras. This might be worth a look.

For the last year, the Admiral has been using a Canon SX110 alongside our dSLR's. A sweet camera with full manual controls. And despite having a 10x hyperzoom lens. . this sucker takes great images!! For only $220; if I had to buy a P&S today. . .this would be the one.
 
Well.... I'm no pro like corn-muffin, but I would say to spend your money on the lens(es) and not a fancy body with features you'll never use.

I'm in the Nikon camp and have about 5 different lenses. I have a Nikon D50 body and it's my second one (first one fell in the drink). I'm looking now to upgrade to a D5000 as the D50 is showing its age and the D5000 is a big step up in technology.

The lenses I use most are this one:

http://www.nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon/ProductDetail.page?pid=2147

It's a 17-55/2.8 and I use it as my everyday lens now. I used to use a Quantaray 28-90mm lens but the Nikon lens makes that thing look like crap.

I also have this lense which I use a lot (the one Mike/mayatt referred to):

http://www.nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon/ProductDetail.page?pid=2139

It's a 70-200/2.8 and is an awesome lens around the boat... it has Nikon's vibration reduction technology and a pretty good zoom. Trying to zoom in on something with the boat bouncing all over the place is impossible and this lens made a big difference. Being out on the water with zoom is a big deal IMO.

Good glass is expensive... Those two lenses alone are worth over $3K... and the D50 body can be picked up on eBay for $150-200 now (used)... I think the d5000 body is about $600 (new)...

My 2 cents.
 
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Four Suns said:
Well.... I'm no pro like corn-muffin, but I would say to spend your money on the lens(es) and not a fancy body with features you'll never use.

I'm in the Nikon camp and have about 5 different lenses. I have a Nikon D50 body and it's my second one (first one fell in the drink). I'm looking now to upgrade to a D5000 as the D50 is showing its age and the D5000 is a big step up in technology.

The lenses I use most are this one:

http://www.nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon/ProductDetail.page?pid=2147

It's a 17-55/2.8 and I use it as my everyday lens now. I used to use a Quantaray 28-90mm lens but the Nikon lens makes that thing look like crap.

I also have this lense which I use a lot:

http://www.nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon/ProductDetail.page?pid=2139

It's a 70-200/2.8 and is an awesome lens around the boat... it has Nikon's vibration reduction technology and a pretty good zoom. Trying to zoom in on something with the boat bouncing all over the place is impossible and this lens made a big difference. Being out on the water with zoom is a big deal IMO.

Good glass is expensive... Those two lenses alone are worth over $3K... and the D50 body can be picked up on eBay for less than $100 now (used)... I think the d5000 body is about $600 (new)...

My 2 cents.
Click to expand...

Gary,

If you get the 5000 let me know what you think about it. I looked at one not to long ago and could not justify the move from my D80...I figure a significant move for me would be to a D300. Don't loose your D50...it's one of the few that will drive the auto focus in the older pro lenses...my D80 will also but a D90 will not...I dont think the D5000 will either.

Your 70-200 VR is a fantastic piece. I keep a 18-200 3.5 VR on my D80 all the time and keep a Nikon 70-300 4.5 for distance and a Sigma 10-20 in the bag for interior and close work. I opens up the cabin or engine room of a boat like a Circus Tent.:thumbsup:
 
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