Delaminated Fiberglass in foredeck

[Drug Money]

Last year, I discovered a small soft spot forward of my deck hatch. The area was small, about 1 foot x 1 foot. I think the damage was caused by a leaking deck hatch. I recaulked the hatch and stopped the leak, but the soft spot has grown to about 1 foot x 2 foot in area. I'm hauling the boat to have the damaged area repaired.

Any advice on the best method of repairing the damage. I don't want to spend a ton of money as the boat isn't worth a ton. Can this be repaired adequately by drilling holes and injecting epoxy into the damaged area, of does this require removing the entire area, removing the damaged wood, and repairing the top?

Additionally, should I be concerned about water drainage into the bottom of the boat? Is more damage being done below, and how would I tell if it was?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Mark

 

[tobnpr]

This is one of those repairs that either needs to be done "right"- or or don't bother doing it at all. Half-assing it will mean you're going to be re-doing it again, and spending more money than doing it correctly the first time.

Injecting epoxy into a delaminated area can often be successful- but only if the underlying coring is bone dry. Based on what you've said it sounds like a leak around a hatch, into the coring which was not protected, has resulted in rot underneath (the soft spot).

The plywood coring under my windlass was rotted out (completely gone...) on my 390 when I bought it. It wasn't easy, but I managed to replace the coring from the bottom side through the access over the berth. Topside repairs are more difficult and expensive because of the cosmetics involved (matching gelcoat and non-skid).

If you have access to the underside- or can make access by adding a hatch of some sort- it becomes a "relatively" easy repair. Do you have any pictures of the area?

 

[twomad]

This is one of those repairs that either needs to be done "right"- or or don't bother doing it at all. Half-assing it will mean you're going to be re-doing it again, and spending more money than doing it correctly the first time.

Injecting epoxy into a delaminated area can often be successful- but only if the underlying coring is bone dry. Based on what you've said it sounds like a leak around a hatch, into the coring which was not protected, has resulted in rot underneath (the soft spot).

The plywood coring under my windlass was rotted out (completely gone...) on my 390 when I bought it. It wasn't easy, but I managed to replace the coring from the bottom side through the access over the berth. Topside repairs are more difficult and expensive because of the cosmetics involved (matching gelcoat and non-skid).

If you have access to the underside- or can make access by adding a hatch of some sort- it becomes a "relatively" easy repair. Do you have any pictures of the area?

can you please post how to do repair from below, would you cut out and replace or inject epoxy

 

[tobnpr]

Don't know, without seeing some pics...

But as I said, epoxy will only work on DRY wood. And drilling a bunch of holes topside to inject epoxy creates a much more difficult-probably professional- repair.

Cutting out and replacing from the bottom side- if you have or can make access- is much easier from the perspective that there are no cosmetic repairs necessary.

 

[sbw1]

When done from below (the best way), you remove the headliner and route out the rot without damaging the exterrior gel coat. You glass and epoxy in new balsa or whatever wood is there and reinstall the headliner. Make sure you have no leaks so you don't have to do this twice.

 

[twomad]

I had a leak but rebedded all deck hardware and hatches including windshield. I'm in the process of replacing the headliner and have removed the old was thinking of possibly installing a micro-vent in the weak spot and repairing at the same time the soft spot is about 1ft in diameter and a good spot for a micro-vent

 

[Drug Money]

I'll post some pix when I get a chance. The boat is being pulled this weekend to do some other work and I will get some professional quotes then. I think it may be possible to fix from below by pulling the headliner and removing the damaged area and fixing as was mentioned. I'll post what the "professionals" recommend after I get quotes. Not sure I'm going to tackle this on my own at this point.

Mark