Damaged Prop...

H

Hotbirk

New Member
Nov 2, 2012
35
Rochester, NY
Boat Info
2011 185 Sport
Engines
4.3 Mercruiser TKS 190 HP
So today I hit some rocks and chipped up my prop with a couple big nickel size chucks and a few chewed up marks... everything seemed to drive ok with little vibration but who knows. My question is how much is this going to cost me and more importantly what type of oem prop do I need to buy? I don't want stainless just a decent aluminum prop. I have a 2011 185 sport. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

TB
 
I would think you could get a decent aluminum prop for around 130 bucks, the size should be stamped on the old prop, just get one the same size if it worked well for you.
 
From your description, it sounds like the prop can be reconditioned. It'll come back looking like new and ready for another run-in with another rock in the future. Probably less than half of what an aftermarket prop would cost. Get it fixed before you use the boat again. I hope it wasn't used too much after the hit.
 
Dennis is right, get it retuned. BEFORE you use the boat again. A great deal of damage can be done from a mess up prop, that would only run you around $100 or less to fix
 
There will be some numbers on your prop. Write the numbers down and you can just plug that into a Google search to bring up what prop it is and who supplies them.

Go online and buy a new prop and hub kit and install them on the boat. Take the old damaged one and get it reconditioned. Once that is done, you have a good spare prop to keep on board for when you really mess up a prop and need to swap it out while on the water. You can also buy one of those plastic floating prop wrenches if you like too...
 
Thank you for the quick responses! My boat is 2 hours away so I did some research and it seems like I should go with a 21 pitch? Think I'm just going to pull the trigger on a black max. Any thoughts? Also is it easy to replace? Never have done this before...
 
Hotbirk said:
Thank you for the quick responses! My boat is 2 hours away so I did some research and it seems like I should go with a 21 pitch? Think I'm just going to pull the trigger on a black max. Any thoughts? Also is it easy to replace? Never have done this before...
Click to expand...


its pretty easy all you need is a socket big enough to fit the nut (mine is 1 + 1/16) and a piece of wood to stop the prop from spinning
remove keys from ignition, take negative battery post of battery etc. pull tabs up toward you to unlock locking washer from "castle ated" spacer (washer immediately behind prop nut) take notice how the thrust washer is oriented and make certain you put it back on the same way (big disc between/behind prop and outdrive), re torque prop nut to 50 ft lbs press tab from locking washer back unto castle washer to lock prop nut in place
 
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And don't forget to grease the prop shaft. Might be a good idea to pull the prop once or twice a year to inspect the prop shaft for debris such as fishing line. A friend just blew up a lower unit on his 225 merc when fishing line ate through the seal and the gear lube leaked out. Now he has a Yamaha blue lower on his black mercury which looks ghetto.


The grease will protect from corrosion and help keep the prop from freezing on.

+1 on the floating wrench
 
Blaster walked me through a messed up prop a few years ago. (Thank you!) I had mine reconditioned by Prop Doctors out of Minnesota. Cost effective and they sold me the Mercury hub kit at a very reasonable price. Blaster's comment about occasional inspection is very good. Also, Prop Doctors or someone can likely set you up with a reasonably priced reconditioned second prop and hub kit you can have on hand to keep you going during the season if you have a mishap. Just had my second prop incident. It is part of boating, and the challenge is to avoid it.

FWIW, I have stainless and appreciate it. The benefit of aluminum is that it is sacrificial as the cost of boating goes.
 
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So I found the prop and hub kit for about $150 online but couldn't get them to ship to me by Thursday so I found a local marina and picked up the new prop, hub kit, and grease for about $200. Didn't want to risk not having my boat for the 4 day weekend I have coming up! I'm throwing the prop on first thing Friday morning when I get out to my cottage!
 
Changed the prop... super easy. Also noticed a chip in the skeg. The boat seems to ride great and got on plane real fast. Topped out around 48 but my rpms Seemed high although I never paid attention in the past. I was around 5000 or slightly over. Also at first at low speeds I felt like I heard a whistling type of noise??? Might just be paranoia. .. any thought on the chipped skeg or how to make sure everything is running ok?
 
4800 is your MAX RPM. Just don't make a habit of going over it. If the prop is the exact same prop, you should get the exact same RPM. If it's a different pitch and/or a different style or manufacturer, then it could be different. A "no name" brand prop will likely not be as consistent with their manufacturing or quality control, since it's likely that someone else (AKA China) is making it. Not to say that better brands don't sub-out as well, but they will have much better quality control.

Skeg damage - it depends. It may not be that big of a deal. Do you have a picture?

Whistling - tough to say on that. Could just be the air intake that you're hearing.
 
they have these things called skeg gaurds that you can buy approx. $100 if the looks of the skeg guard bother you
 
sibnai1 said:
they have these things called skeg gaurds that you can buy approx. $100 if the looks of the skeg guard bother you
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not a fan of those
makes metal stiff where it is supposed to bend or break to save the drive unit.
hit a rock again and it breaks off it will probably waste the foot completely
 
I bought a quick Silver prop with flo-torque hub. Same size same pitch same everything... boated from sandy pond to sackets harbor and back... about 2 hours of driving. Everything seemed ok. Still hearing a whistling at low speed, about 1000 rpm. As far a the skeg, I will post a pic tomorrow. Thank you for all the help!
 
never seen one 1st person as yet much less used one but is it at all possible that the design is such that the bolts that fasten the skeg guard would "share off" before that would happen??

cause if it's not I know what business I'm going into next!!
 
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sibnai1 said:
never seen one 1st person as yet much less used one but is it at all possible that the design is such that the bolts that fasten the skeg guard would "share off" before that would happen??

cause if it's not I know what business I'm going into next!!
Click to expand...
most skeg guards are harder than the aluminum they "protect"
drilling the holes will weaken the support material aka skeg..and the bolt fairly high
I was missing abour 4" of skeg on my 240 and didn't seem to have any adverse effects on handling at all
but I pulled the foot and sent it in for a proper repair
 
moparlvr4406 said:
most skeg guards are harder than the aluminum they "protect"
drilling the holes will weaken the support material aka skeg..and the bolt fairly high
I was missing abour 4" of skeg on my 240 and didn't seem to have any adverse effects on handling at all
but I pulled the foot and sent it in for a proper repair
Click to expand...

barring the removal of the leg and a "proper" repair; so drilling the holes in the skeg for the mounting hardware will weaken the support material to the point where using mounting hardware that is made to be easily shorn will not benefit it??

Ah well I better move on to my next business idea
 
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