Custom Teak Table
- Thread starter promocop
- Start date
- Oct 6, 2006
- 12,155
- Boat Info
- 1996 450DA
- Engines
- 3116 Caterpillars
Assuming you have a teak table,
High Gloss-
Clean crisp finished look
No finish screams class any louder
Lots of work to apply enough coats to get a finish that can be buffed with compound
Surface will show surface scratches so you have to be careful with the finish
Does not absorb liquid
Requires periodic sanding and recoating, about every 3-4 years
Oiled-
A more natural look
Doesn't show surface scratches as bad
Easier to apply
Much harder to maintain since it must be kept clean and oiled every few months
Will absorb moisture and mold/mildew sets up in the grain
Surface gradually gets rougher as it is cleaned and re-oiled
I prefer a high gloss finish............
High Gloss-
Clean crisp finished look
No finish screams class any louder
Lots of work to apply enough coats to get a finish that can be buffed with compound
Surface will show surface scratches so you have to be careful with the finish
Does not absorb liquid
Requires periodic sanding and recoating, about every 3-4 years
Oiled-
A more natural look
Doesn't show surface scratches as bad
Easier to apply
Much harder to maintain since it must be kept clean and oiled every few months
Will absorb moisture and mold/mildew sets up in the grain
Surface gradually gets rougher as it is cleaned and re-oiled
I prefer a high gloss finish............
Attachments
Henry Boyd
Well-Known Member
- Apr 24, 2007
- 6,014
- Boat Info
- ‘09 Sabre 38 Hardtop Express “Serenity”
- Engines
- Volvo D6 w/IPS450 Pods
There is more to it than surface finish. It has to do with the way the wood is treated/sealed. Oil finishes such as teak oil are basically linseed oil with dyes. Traditional paint by the way was just linseed oil and pigment. The oil will penetrate the wood fibers and with time the volatile compounds mixed with the linseed oil for improved viscosity will evaporate leaving a hard surface.
Traditional gloss finishes come from products like shellac, varnish and polyurethane. Shellac is made from a secretion from insects that is mixed with denatured alcohol. Shellac has the best moisture impermeability of any wood wood finish and is used by serious wooden boat builders as sealant between inner and outer hulls. The downside of shellac is that it is soft and over time dirt will become impacted in the surface and it lifts very easily when exposed to alcohol.
Varnish is a nitrocellulose product, is a little more resilient than shellac, but does but weather especially well in comparison.
Polyurethane is serious chemistry, results in a very resilient barrier coating. It essentially is a plastic coating. Downside is that it is very labor intensive to apply. A marine grade poly can take up to six coats for a minimum covering and often more. With 12 to 24 hours drying times between coats...
For my interior furniture projects I prefer shellac because in many cases I am trying to recreate a historical period look. For boat projects, I usually teak oil the wood first then follow up with a poly top coat. Keep in mind that marine polys only come in high gloss and to get satin finishes all you need to do is mix a dulling agent with them. So it is possible to get the satin look of an oil finish with the durability of a poly.
Henry
Traditional gloss finishes come from products like shellac, varnish and polyurethane. Shellac is made from a secretion from insects that is mixed with denatured alcohol. Shellac has the best moisture impermeability of any wood wood finish and is used by serious wooden boat builders as sealant between inner and outer hulls. The downside of shellac is that it is soft and over time dirt will become impacted in the surface and it lifts very easily when exposed to alcohol.
Varnish is a nitrocellulose product, is a little more resilient than shellac, but does but weather especially well in comparison.
Polyurethane is serious chemistry, results in a very resilient barrier coating. It essentially is a plastic coating. Downside is that it is very labor intensive to apply. A marine grade poly can take up to six coats for a minimum covering and often more. With 12 to 24 hours drying times between coats...
For my interior furniture projects I prefer shellac because in many cases I am trying to recreate a historical period look. For boat projects, I usually teak oil the wood first then follow up with a poly top coat. Keep in mind that marine polys only come in high gloss and to get satin finishes all you need to do is mix a dulling agent with them. So it is possible to get the satin look of an oil finish with the durability of a poly.
Henry
- Oct 6, 2006
- 12,155
- Boat Info
- 1996 450DA
- Engines
- 3116 Caterpillars
Henry has given you the story behind the finish, but in choosing which chemistry to use you need to also consider the application process.
I've never has any luck trying to finish oiled teak and end up with a deep gloss finish. Perhaps the reason is that you must repeatedly block sand to get a level finish and if the oil prevents the first coat from curing, you have some sanding problems.
Single part polyurethane has a nasty habit of lifting earlier coats when you recoat.
On wood projects that end up on my boat, I have the best luck by first sealing the teak with West Systems epoxy, removing the blush, then using a high grade marine varnish like Interlux Schooner or Epifanes. Since it takes lots of coats to get the depth and smoothness, I usually brush on the first 2 coats, block sand and begin spraying after that. Perhaps the type finish on the table in the photo isn't what you are aiming for since it is so labor intensive. I just refinished that table and there are 16 coats of varnish and 2 coats of epoxy on it plus lots of sanding and several hours with compound and a buffing machine.
I've never has any luck trying to finish oiled teak and end up with a deep gloss finish. Perhaps the reason is that you must repeatedly block sand to get a level finish and if the oil prevents the first coat from curing, you have some sanding problems.
Single part polyurethane has a nasty habit of lifting earlier coats when you recoat.
On wood projects that end up on my boat, I have the best luck by first sealing the teak with West Systems epoxy, removing the blush, then using a high grade marine varnish like Interlux Schooner or Epifanes. Since it takes lots of coats to get the depth and smoothness, I usually brush on the first 2 coats, block sand and begin spraying after that. Perhaps the type finish on the table in the photo isn't what you are aiming for since it is so labor intensive. I just refinished that table and there are 16 coats of varnish and 2 coats of epoxy on it plus lots of sanding and several hours with compound and a buffing machine.
Henry Boyd
Well-Known Member
- Apr 24, 2007
- 6,014
- Boat Info
- ‘09 Sabre 38 Hardtop Express “Serenity”
- Engines
- Volvo D6 w/IPS450 Pods
I haven't. Could you post a link?
Henry
Henry
sorrr...www.marinerswoodshop.com
- Oct 6, 2006
- 12,155
- Boat Info
- 1996 450DA
- Engines
- 3116 Caterpillars
I have not........I prefer to build my own wood projects.
jrirvine1
Member
9 coats of Epifanes high gloss on custom teak and ash table.
Hint: never use the Epifanes at full strength, always cut it about 50/50 for proper flow.
Hint: never use the Epifanes at full strength, always cut it about 50/50 for proper flow.
