couple random questions from the new guy

RLKBOB

New Member
May 2, 2010
55
Michigan
Boat Info
1979 240 Sundancer
Engines
260 Mercruiser
Great site, I've been reading a lot already and reading a lot of the links provided. Have a few questions that have come up in my reading.

1. I've read a few places that it's best to use 4200 over 5200. Bi-State Marine only carries 5200 and looked baffled when I told him I wanted 4200. When I looked into them I read the 4200 dries faster and is half as strong. Why is it preferable over the 5200? Is it just because it's faster curing? Does it remain pliable/workable after cure? Just curious. I noticed some water on the floor in the head and need to investigate further to see if it's the window or a hand rail bracket or the rub rail leaking. Also a leak in the rear corners of the little bunk room under the cockpit.

2. I want to take the kids tubing this year and was wondering if I can hook the rope to a cleat or if I need to install something stronger in a more central location?

3. The guy at the marine shop also never heard of Cetol and after reading on here it sounds like that's the way to go to get my teak looking good and minimize maintenance. The PO used Sickenz(sp?) and it's peeling like dry rotted varnish. Gonna have to sand it all off but I want it to look new. Can someone tell me where I can get Cetol from?

Thanks for all the help so far, great information here.
 
4200 is preferable if you think you ever have to remove whatever it is you are sealing up. :)

I hear many people praise Cetol. I personally like Varnish. . .but there I understand that there is more work involved keeping varnish looking good. On my boat (the one that has exterior wood. . not the searay), I tend to revarnish every other year. Generally 4-6 coats.
 
5200 vs 4200... they are for different applications. Think of 5200 as permanent and 4200 as semi-permanent bonding. If you bond with 5200, and then one day have to remove the bond, you will be pulling up fiberglass with it. 4200 can be separated if needed without destroying the surface it's applied to.
 
Sorry wrong thread that I reply to. .
 
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As for towing the kids, use a harness attached to the lifting rings on the transom. A cleat is not meant for that kind of stress.

Is this ring on top of the transom what you're talking about, it's the only thing meeting your description?

Can a ring be installed above the swim platform to the aft part of the hull with a backing plate to distribute the weight?

dscf0123.jpg


Thanks for the quick replies.
 
Is this ring on top of the transom what you're talking about, it's the only thing meeting your description?

Can a ring be installed above the swim platform to the aft part of the hull with a backing plate to distribute the weight?

dscf0123.jpg


Thanks for the quick replies.

I hopr that you are not referring to the lifting ring on your outdrive. :smt018:smt018
 
Is this ring on top of the transom what you're talking about, it's the only thing meeting your description?

Can a ring be installed above the swim platform to the aft part of the hull with a backing plate to distribute the weight?

dscf0123.jpg


Thanks for the quick replies.

NO.

The ring would be used to tie your boat to a trailer.

Not sure your boat has them.
 
I hopr that you are not referring to the lifting ring on your outdrive. :smt018:smt018

Yes I was, didn't seem right, that's why I asked and included a pic to be sure. :smt021

NO.

The ring would be used to tie your boat to a trailer.

Not sure your boat has them.

I do have a ring on each side that the ratchet straps hook to while on the trailer. Are you saying those would be a good place to tie to?
 
Yes I was, didn't seem right, that's why I asked and included a pic to be sure. :smt021



I do have a ring on each side that the ratchet straps hook to while on the trailer. Are you saying those would be a good place to tie to?

Correct.

If you do not have these rings at each corner on the stern then I would make a bradle that splits the tow load between two stern cleats.

Something like this but you could build your own if you wish.
78290_lg.jpg

$20 here http://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?cat=101&item=78290&intAbsolutePage=1


Towing a tube or wake boarder or a child skiing takes a lot less stress then an adult on a slalom ski. Given your situation I would keep that in mind when deciding what I was going to tow.
 
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Thanks for all the great info. I'll be down at WM today or tomorrow, I'll have to pick up one of those harnesses. I do plan on taking a course this summer. I'm pretty new(to boating on Erie) but not totally ignorant, it's just been a few years. After 13 years in the Navy and having 2 grown kids, one in the Navy and one w/ twin grandsons and a 16 y/o boy and 7 y/o girl still at home I'm always extrememly cautious doing things with them(like tubing). Thanks again!
 
The problem with using the D rings is the rope wants to get caught in the wake and pull the tube down. Also the rope is hard to see and could be drawn into the prop more easily.

For small kids I have used a stern cleat and even the horizontal stern rail. But the kids are getting bigger and we want to get more into skis and wake boards so I will probably install a ski eye above the platform.
 
Make sure you use proper rope for skiing/tubing. It is designed to take the stress and most important, it floats. You don't want to use nylon line that sinks and can get caught in the prop(s).
 
Yeah, planned on it, thanks. I was concerned about that(fouling the prop) initially then after a little looking around I found they had the rope you're talking about just for it and it floats. Sounds like the only way to go.
 

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