Cost to install windlass?

The wiring diagram that comes with the Lewmar is first rate. Follow the recommendations for wire size. It seems excessive but if you cheat, you'll be resetting the breaker that comes with it all the time.

I did a dual station install with the (not included) relay, and it was easy. Ordered the wire from Jamestown. I had no pulpit so I shelled out another $600 for a Sea Ray roller for a plow, same as the new boats have. Bought a Talon XT plow anchor direct from the manufacturer, rode with chain at West Marine, a ball bearing swivel shackel at Boaters World (RIP), and the whole (self)install cost me $2000. Looks like it came rigged that way from Sea Ray.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Just trying to keep things simple (since we're all dealing with boat wiring). But I am always open to more explanation of why things are what they are. I know enough about electricity to keep me out of trouble and I'm comfortable working with it. More than that, I go to the charts for the specs. So, I thought I'd pass along that info (the charts).

But, wouldn't the size of the wire need to be of a certain size on the return run to be able to carry the load back to the battery? I do understand about V drop, but I thought that on the lengths we are dealing with that drop wasn't as important an issue? This was always the way I understood it - but if there is more to it, please tell (no sarcasm here, I'm really interested).
Click to expand...

Hope you know I wasn't trying to imply the charts were wrong or correct you, just provide more of an explanation behind the theory (I'm an EE), they are very good resources and tools. From the first link I could see that #10 would have been adequate for my application, and that #8 was overkill and it is harder to work with (much stiffer)

Current to and from a load is equal. Here is a good link for voltage drop calculations. http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm and you are correct there shouldn't be any issues at such a short distance. Using the resistance tables, #10 is .001018 ohms/ft. So at 10 amps you would only drop 0.01018V/ft, or at 50' 0.51V, which is nothing. We deal in cable runs of 300 - 500 feet in my line of work and ampacities to 200 amps or so at 480 volts. Any larger and we step up the voltage to reduce the amperage. A 480V 200A service would only be 41A at 2300V
 
Last edited:
ultratiger89 said:
Hoep you know I wasn't trying to imply the charts were wrong or correct you, just provide more of an explanation behind the theory (I'm an EE), they are very good resources and tools. From the first link I could see that #10 would have been adequate for my application, and that #8 was overkill and it is harder to work with (much stiffer)

Current to and from a load is equal. Here is a good link for voltage drop calculations. http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm and you are correct there shouldn't be any issues at such a short distance. Using the resistance tables, #10 is .001018 ohms/ft. So at 10 amps you would only drop 0.01018V/ft, or at 50' 0.051V, which is nothing. We deal in cable runs of 300 - 500 feet in my line of work and ampacities to 200 amps or so at 480 volts. Any larger and we step up the voltage to reduce the amperage. A 480V 200A service would only be 41A at 2300V
Click to expand...

Thank you - and, no, I didn't think you meant anything malicious. I like to understand (best I can, anyway) why things are the way they are. So, I appreciate you taking the time to help. I'll take a look at that link. Thanks again!
 
So at 10 amps you would only drop 0.01018V/ft, or at 50' 0.051V, which is nothing.
Click to expand...

I get 0.51V, which is a drop that is a little higher.:smt013 It might be OK. 8 gauge is going to give a drop only slightly less at 0.32V. I don't know the specs on the windlass motor. Perhaps it is within it's operating specification.
 
Why would you want to undersize the wire the manufacturer recommended?

What windlass draws less than 10 amps under load??
Click to expand...

Good question. The V700 mentioned earlier in the thread is the one I'm looking at and have the manual for. It calls for a 35 amp breaker but doesn't list actual current draw. So, less than 35 amp, but I'm sure it's more than 10. It also calls for 8 gauge wire when total length (battery to windlass and back to battery) is less than 33 Ft. and 6 gage 34 to 60 Ft.
50 ft length with 30 amps is a 1.5V drop on 10 gauge, nearly 1 volt drop on 8. I would use the 6 gauge at a minimum for that length and highly consider 4.
 
tobnpr said:
Why would you want to undersize the wire the manufacturer recommended?

What windlass draws less than 10 amps under load??
Click to expand...

because it's overkill. this is the one I bought http://www.powerwinch.com/powerwinch/controller?action=product&c=3&p=17 and it's rated at 8 - 12 amps, I misquoted the breaker size, it's 25 amps. #10AWG is PLENTY big enough to handle 12 amps, in fact, it's rated for 40 amps, not more than 3 conductors in a raceway, at 90°C, THHN or equivalent insulation.

wish I'd have found that Lewmar prior to buying this one, it's a much nicer looking unit, but oh well, this one works fine.
 
To each their own, and I'm not going to argue with an EE, but I'll bet you a case of your favorite brew that if you run #10 AWG to that windlass you're going to have inadequate voltage at the motor.

The link you provided says "average" currrent draw is 8-12 amps. There's a reason it's got a 25 amp breaker- because it will pull that amperage when it's under a heavy load, and #10 awg isn't up to that task. My $.02. Good luck.
 
tobnpr said:
To each their own, and I'm not going to argue with an EE, but I'll bet you a case of your favorite brew that if you run #10 AWG to that windlass you're going to have inadequate voltage at the motor.

The link you provided says "average" currrent draw is 8-12 amps. There's a reason it's got a 25 amp breaker- because it will pull that amperage when it's under a heavy load, and #10 awg isn't up to that task. My $.02. Good luck.
Click to expand...

I ran #8, per the manufacturers recommendation, BTW. Also, the leads on the Windlass are #12AWG wires. The breakers purpose is to protect the wires, and is sized appropriately for the wire and the load. At 30' the #10 will drop about .3 volts, so the drop would not be enough to make a difference.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,253
Messages
1,429,327
Members
61,128
Latest member
MinecraftRuSwilm
Back
Top