Cost to install windlass?

S

Scotto97

Member
Feb 26, 2009
95
Las Vegas
Boat Info
"Wench & Rum" 2007 260 Sundancer, Gen with A/C
Engines
350 Mag
Speaking to the MarineMax dealer shortly before they closed their Vegas store, I was loosely quoted around $3000 to install a windlass on my 260DA.

I'd like to know if anyone had a dealer install one, and what it cost for a comparison.

My boat didn't not come with a windlass from the factory.

Thanks
 
Scotto97 said:
Speaking to the MarineMax dealer shortly before they closed their Vegas store, I was loosely quoted around $3000 to install a windlass on my 260DA.

I'd like to know if anyone had a dealer install one, and what it cost for a comparison.

My boat didn't not come with a windlass from the factory.

Thanks
Click to expand...


I got a quote from a friend who owns a boatshop and it was slightly less than that, but again, he's a friend. There are a couple other posts on here about this and as I recall they're all in the $3k range. The Windlass itself is rather expensive (maybe not by boat standards) but it seems it's usually at least 2x the cost of the unit itself. I'm looking into a DIY project on my 280.

Brian.
 
I think thats high. You can get a great Lewmar Pro-Series 700 windlass for that size of boat for ~$700 to $800 and a pro-series 1000 for $800 to $1000 depending on where you buy ... then figure the install. I would not think that at an approx. $100/shop hour the total should be $3000
 
The reason for the high cost is (aside from the unit and associated "stuff") is the labor. Typically the boats are not pre-wired for the windlass from the factory. It's a lot of "taking things apart" and running wires - some of the wire is very large gauge. Unfortunately, that quote is in the ball park.

If you're comfortable doing this yourself, the Lewmar V700 is a nice unit at a good price. When I get around to installing a windlass, that's the model I'm going with.

On edit: Oops. Looks like Alex and Scott beat me to the punch... again....
 
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ultratiger89 said:
I installed mine for $680. If you need instructions on how I did it let me know.
Click to expand...

My neighbor is going to attempt this install on his 2003 260DA. I'd love to see your notes and pics if you can post them here.
 
ultratiger89 said:
I installed mine for $680. If you need instructions on how I did it let me know.
Click to expand...

I have a general idea of what I want to do. But, nothing beats talking from experience!:smt001 I would love to see what you did, as well. What were some of the major hurdles?
 
I'm looking at the v700 myself. Can get one for around $650 plus another $500 or so for the relay, foot pedals, switch and wire.

I would also like to see whatever install notes or pictures anyone has.

If I provide the dealer with the unit, I can't believe it's more than 15 hours labor is it?
 
Scotto97 said:
I'm looking at the v700 myself. Can get one for around $650 plus another $500 or so for the relay, foot pedals, switch and wire.

I would also like to see whatever install notes or pictures anyone has.

If I provide the dealer with the unit, I can't believe it's more than 15 hours labor is it?
Click to expand...


Where are you buying your windlass from?
 
Doesn't Sea Ray usually install Lewmar? I was looking at a 2006 or 2007 320DA on my dock and it had a Quick windlass. Any brand better than the other?
 
With two guys - most of the install can be done on a Saturday if you know how to install everything and remove and find chases in your boat. If you don't plus you don't have all of the wiring and tools you need then - who knows. The next day is for clean up and adjustments... The $700 windlass is not the same quality as the factory Windlass. I helped install one on a 28' Bayliner. If you are going to install a model that allows controls on the bow - plan for more time. But plan on this being a weekend project.
 
I am very glad I have controls at the helm and at the bow.

Normally I lower from the helm as I back, going past my goal then hand lower the stern anchor then raise the bow anchor until the lines are reasonably tight in both directions.

When we leave I have a variety of options including paying out more rode form the bow, manually retrieving the stern anchor then with the engines warming up I go onto the bow and raise the rode.

I do not hold the up button and pull the boat forward all at once. That can damage the windlass motor.

Its more like I take up the slack, wait for some more slack in the line then repeat until I have the anchor.

By being on the bow I can see if the rode is tight or has slack. My wife will be at the helm adding some forward throttle if needed as I tell her.

Also I’ll sometimes have a big wad of muck on the bow anchor. Being on the bow I can lower it back into the water as my wife puts the boat into gear and let the anchor drag in the water to get the anchor clean.
 
osd9 said:
My neighbor is going to attempt this install on his 2003 260DA. I'd love to see your notes and pics if you can post them here.
Click to expand...


didn't take any pics, but what I did was this:


  1. remove captains chair
  2. remove storage compartment next to the captains chair
  3. in the closet (front of the head), remove the top panel
  4. remove the wooden guides for the cockpit table. access to the screws is under the sink in the head
  5. remove the panel in the closet on the starboard side.
  6. remove the starboard side speaker and forward cabin shelving in the cabin. This will reveal the OEM wiring harness that runs to the lights on the bow.
Get a fish tape and from the access hole in the cockpit fish the tape up to the opening in the closet. attach your cables and pull them back to the cockpit, pull enough slack to get to your batteries. Take the end at the front and push them through the hole that the OEM cables go through. Pull them to the front and push them through the hole that goes to the rope locker. Pull any slack back to the cockpit. Reassemble 3 - 6 above.

Through the access hole in the cockpit, drill a hole through the panel were all the cables and wires run to the EC. I tried pushing though one of those existing holes but they are sealed tight. Pull the cables and tie wrap to existing wires and route to the batteries. Leave enough slack in the cockpit to reach the location of the up-down switch.

This is the hard part, the rest is just cutting and prepping the wires and connecting things up. I mounted my switch panel next to the trim tab switches, they are lower port of the steering wheel.

I didn't install a foot switch.

NOTE: If the windlass leads are short, it's easier if you pull the power leads through the hole on the bow and wire them up first. I didn't and had to stand on my head in the rope looker to make my terminations, my buddy had to pull me out of there as I got stuck. Also, make sure you have help! Hope this makes sense and helps.
 
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Thank you very much, Tiger! That's great info!
 
Lazy Daze said:
Keep in mind, when determining the appropriate sized wire to use, it's based on amp draw and total feet of wire. That means to the circuit and back. Here's something that will help explain it better than I ever could:
Click to expand...

Actually, ampacity ratings depend on the type of wire used (copper vs. aluminum, stranded vs. solid), temperature ratings and insulation characteristics. There are many types, I typically use THHN, which is good for 40 amps when run with 2 other conductors in a raceway, at 90°C rating. The distance doesn't determine ampacity, but it does come into play when looking at voltage drops. If you have 12V at your source and you need 11.8V at your load, you need to make sure that at the operating current you don't have too much voltage drop across the conductor. Simple Ohms law, E=IR is used to calculate this.
 
Just trying to keep things simple (since we're all dealing with boat wiring). But I am always open to more explanation of why things are what they are. I know enough about electricity to keep me out of trouble and I'm comfortable working with it. More than that, I go to the charts for the specs. So, I thought I'd pass along that info (the charts).

But, wouldn't the size of the wire need to be of a certain size on the return run to be able to carry the load back to the battery? I do understand about V drop, but I thought that on the lengths we are dealing with that drop wasn't as important an issue? This was always the way I understood it - but if there is more to it, please tell (no sarcasm here, I'm really interested).
 
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