cost of some repairs

F

flash gordon

Member
Jul 5, 2013
63
New Baltimore, MI
Boat Info
1985 34 express
Engines
454
trying to get idea of cost to repair several issues on my 85 34 cruisser express

1. R & R rear seal on transmision, was told was leaking
2. align motor, was told it was bad on stdbd motor
3. replace hoses on both motors, said they were dry rotted.


i could maybe do the hoses.....

thanks for any advice....

flash .........out
 
Based on my experience minimum 4 hours and 8 if it is a slow day. Rates 100 to 160 an hour plus parts.
I have yet to find a marina that will give you a firm price. Estimate is the the unit and it never lower than the estimate.
Based on my experience 2K for item 1, 1K for item 2, 5 to 10K for item 3.
 
thanks for info NORTHERN,,,
i have completely rebuilt my 38 scarab, pulled motors , rebuilt the motors, they are now 547;s, pulled outdrives,
BUT, never done any kind of work on inboards.
 
Wait until you look into the engine "room" and see the access to things like the hoses that you say are dry rotten, the freshwater pump impellers, the oil coolers and hoses, trans coolers, etc. Not sure on prices, but there's a reason the inboard costs are much higher.

The rear of the transmission (faces forward in the boat) is about 1-2" from the bulkhead covering the fuel tanks. The two inner exhaust manifolds of the engines are about 1.5" apart in the middle, making even central spark plug access difficult.

Item 1 probably requires pulling the v-drive. Item 3 might require pulling, or at least raising the entire engine off its mounts. Some of the hoses that you need to replace run under the engines next to the stringers and can't be accessed to correctly replace (i.e., get the hose clamps on and tight) in situ. If you do have rot, you might want to look at the manifolds and risers as well. Some of the stuff, like the starboard freshwater impeller, is much easier to change out when both of the central manifolds are removed because you can access the port side of the starboard engine that way.

Good luck
 
northern said:
Based on my experience minimum 4 hours and 8 if it is a slow day. Rates 100 to 160 an hour plus parts.
I have yet to find a marina that will give you a firm price. Estimate is the the unit and it never lower than the estimate.
Based on my experience 2K for item 1, 1K for item 2, 5 to 10K for item 3.
Click to expand...
5 to 10k for hoses? What?
 
SCORPIO said:
5 to 10k for hoses? What?
Click to expand...
I paid 10K in 2006 to replace all cooling hoses (Raw water and Antifreeze), oil and transmission coolers. I have no idea if it was too much. Old ones were starting to crack. With the antifreeze hoses they placed new antifreeze in all cooling system. Raw water hoses from the hull to strainer to the raw water pump were noted as cracked on last survey for insurance in 2017. They cost $12 a foot and I needed 24 feet. I put them in myself. It took me almost a day. Marina wanted two men to do it and estimated 8 hours.
 
I'm glad I do my own work. I've done a hose replacement on a twin engine 300, not that terrible and nowhere near 10k. Maybe I should start a new business?
 
SCORPIO said:
I'm glad I do my own work. I've done a hose replacement on a twin engine 300, not that terrible and nowhere near 10k. Maybe I should start a new business?
Click to expand...
At 5-10k, it's likely they dismounted and raised the engines. A twin 300 isn't the same as a twin 340 with 454s. There are hoses and components (i.e., those oil and transmission coolers) you cannot replace with the engines in-situ.
 
Rod Buster said:
At 5-10k, it's likely they dismounted and raised the engines. A twin 300 isn't the same as a twin 340 with 454s. There are hoses and components (i.e., those oil and transmission coolers) you cannot replace with the engines in-situ.
Click to expand...
I could still do it DIY for a small fraction of that. I've pulled engines on every boat I've ever owned, not a big deal, even when hiting a crane for the job. I'd be waiting to do those hard to reach hoses until I had to pull the engine for something more major. Also, when I had my engines out, I replaced those hard to reach items while I had access. To each their own though.
 
SCORPIO said:
I could still do it DIY for a small fraction of that. I've pulled engines on every boat I've ever owned, not a big deal, even when hiting a crane for the job. I'd be waiting to do those hard to reach hoses until I had to pull the engine for something more major. Also, when I had my engines out, I replaced those hard to reach items while I had access. To each their own though.
Click to expand...
I haven't pulled one of my engines in the boat yet (have done many in cars myself), but I have replaced the heads on one of the engines with the boat in the water. Did most of the hard to reach things with the manifolds off of both engines and laying on the engine block of the disassembled engine. Obviously it can be done.

My point was to explain northern's estimate. I agree most things can be done yourself for a small fraction of what a yard charges, but time is indeed money and each individual has to weigh their out-of-pocket costs to hire someone to do the job vs. their time value vs. technical ability vs. etc. 10k to pull both engines and replace all hoses and coolers is not wildly out of line or anything, and to someone who cannot or does not want to perform that task, it can be worth it. Obviously it isn't worth it to you.
 
Rod Buster said:
The rear of the transmission (faces forward in the boat) is about 1-2" from the bulkhead covering the fuel tanks. The two inner exhaust manifolds of the engines are about 1.5" apart in the middle, making even central spark plug access difficult.

Item 1 probably requires pulling the v-drive.
Click to expand...


If his is an express cruiser he has straight drives so rear seal on trans is very easy access.
 
Snapon24 said:
If his is an express cruiser he has straight drives so rear seal on trans is very easy access.
Click to expand...
Good point. Missed that distinction since it's not in his sig, but was in the OP.
 
Rod Buster said:
Wait until you look into the engine "room" and see the access to things like the hoses that you say are dry rotten, the freshwater pump impellers, the oil coolers and hoses, trans coolers, etc. Not sure on prices, but there's a reason the inboard costs are much higher.

The rear of the transmission (faces forward in the boat) is about 1-2" from the bulkhead covering the fuel tanks. The two inner exhaust manifolds of the engines are about 1.5" apart in the middle, making even central spark plug access difficult.

Item 1 probably requires pulling the v-drive. Item 3 might require pulling, or at least raising the entire engine off its mounts. Some of the hoses that you need to replace run under the engines next to the stringers and can't be accessed to correctly replace (i.e., get the hose clamps on and tight) in situ. If you do have rot, you might want to look at the manifolds and risers as well. Some of the stuff, like the starboard freshwater impeller, is much easier to change out when both of the central manifolds are removed because you can access the port side of the starboard engine that way.

Good luck
Click to expand...
no v drives
boat is an express
 
3505152_0_230320111900_3.jpg
IMG_1117.jpg
Rod Buster said:
Wait until you look into the engine "room" and see the access to things like the hoses that you say are dry rotten, the freshwater pump impellers, the oil coolers and hoses, trans coolers, etc. Not sure on prices, but there's a reason the inboard costs are much higher.

The rear of the transmission (faces forward in the boat) is about 1-2" from the bulkhead covering the fuel tanks. The two inner exhaust manifolds of the engines are about 1.5" apart in the middle, making even central spark plug access difficult.

Item 1 probably requires pulling the v-drive. Item 3 might require pulling, or at least raising the entire engine off its mounts. Some of the hoses that you need to replace run under the engines next to the stringers and can't be accessed to correctly replace (i.e., get the hose clamps on and tight) in situ. If you do have rot, you might want to look at the manifolds and risers as well. Some of the stuff, like the starboard freshwater impeller, is much easier to change out when both of the central manifolds are removed because you can access the port side of the starboard engine that way.

Good luck
Click to expand...
let my show NO ROOM.......my 547s in my 38 scarab
 
Rod Buster said:
At least you can reach stuff. I have no room and everything is 2-3' lower than that.
Click to expand...

hello rod buster,,,
maybe you can tell,,dont those seat move ???
anyone...how do you move the seat in an EC
ahhh, u have a dancer..
well i guess i will find out in spring.
i had an 87 SD,,did alot of work on it...

trust me,,,it is or was easier working the SD than my scarab.
 
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