Atalla
Active Member
I totally do. Forgot about that manifold in the bilge. Problem is that the errant pumping happens so infrequently, I’m going to have to sit on the boat all day in the slip to figure it out.
Conditions under which fresh water pump should run?
- Thread starter Atalla
- Start date
- Nov 4, 2019
- 2,485
- Boat Info
- 2010 Sundancer 500
2015 Brig Falcon 330T
- Engines
- Twin Cummins QSC550 w Zeus Pods
I could think of worse things to do..
Cocktail anyone?
Atalla
Active Member
Fair 'nuff.
Atalla
Active Member
I'm not seeing a pressure switch minimum. I'm looking at the Jabsco PAR-Max datasheet and I see the water flow at each pressure point, the max pressure. Unclear how to "size" an accumulator.
EDIT: I'm reading more and it appears that most all pumps have a minimum PSI of 20. It seems you size by matching the pre-pressurized PSI to match your pump's minimum. Then the accumulator pressure increases as it is filled by your pump and then "wins" when a faucet is opened until it returns to that minimum 20psi and the pump takes over.
Last edited:
Atalla
Active Member
I'm staring at the specs for this thing and thinking about your offer. I'm wondering if going with this pump and skipping an accumulator might be the right call. With an ultra quiet pump, I'd simply be accumulating to slightly extend the life of the pump. That's got to be minimal really since the pump has to pump the same amount of water either way, it is just cycling less frequently.
FootballFan
Well-Known Member
nothing against accumulator's. Personally I don't have any experience with them.
I have had 2 SR boats, never needed one.
Whether or not you install an accumulator, it sounds like you have a leak. My concern would be will the accumulator mask the leak, make it harder to find - until it gets worse.
I have had 2 SR boats, never needed one.
Whether or not you install an accumulator, it sounds like you have a leak. My concern would be will the accumulator mask the leak, make it harder to find - until it gets worse.
+1. All this talk about accumulators and quieter pumps ignores or I should say, applies a bandaid to the real problem, which is that the OP has a leak which needs to be found and repaired.
- Sep 25, 2016
- 1,257
- Boat Info
- 300 Sundancer 1994, trailered tri-axle LoadRite roller
- Engines
- Mercruiser 5.7 260HP Alpha One Gen II, twin
Ignoring that you may have a leak could easily come back to haunt you if you go forward with a pump and accumulator without being certain.
If you have a valved manifold close off ALL the water circuits. Wait and see if the pump cycles.
If it cycles the leak would have to be between the pump and the manifold which I will bet is a very short limited run.
If no leaks then you know its the pump.
If it doesn't cycle you have a leak somewhere past the manifold which should not be ignored.
Atalla
Active Member
Indeed and agreed @FootballFan and @bobeast re:focusing on the leak before pump/accumulator. I'm digging all the additional information, however, and it relates so good discussion for future forum searches either way.
I do have a valved manifold, it is actually a pretty long run from the bow of the boat (pump is under the mattress just aft of the fresh water tank) into the bilge where the manifolds are mounted to the hull just behind my battery banks (which I always found to be an odd place for a potential source of water leaks). But that's a single pex pipe so any leak source would be the fittings at each end.
I have pulled out the refrigerator in the salon to get a view through to the connections to the hot water heater and salon sink. There is some evidence that there may have been water near the hot water heater at some point based on how some dirt and dust has dried up, but the errant pump cycling occurs with the hot water heater off, so that may be old or just happen to be the lowest point where water from anywhere behind the galley would pool. I just need to find a block of time where I can go test all the fittings and do the valve by valve test.
I appreciate all the input.
FootballFan
Well-Known Member
If you suspect a fitting - but not sure. Shake some baby powder all over it. Come back to it in an hour, you can probably see if there was any water leaking.
- Sep 25, 2016
- 1,257
- Boat Info
- 300 Sundancer 1994, trailered tri-axle LoadRite roller
- Engines
- Mercruiser 5.7 260HP Alpha One Gen II, twin
I have nothing against an accumulator, in fact I installed one when I renovated my plumbing. As usual tho it seems RV/marine stuff is ridiculously over priced. $35 for 0.2 gallon plastic. I installed this:
Falcon Stainless EXPT-2 Thermal Potable Water Expansion Tank 2.1 Gal with Butyl Bladder/Polypropylene Liner and Stainless Steel 3/4-Inch Male Thread Connection for up to 50-Gallon Water Heaters
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7SWXMT/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_1CO0FbY4T9AW8
note the tank is NOT stainless, only the fitting, but it is polypropylene lined tank.
Nater Potater
Well-Known Member
- Oct 19, 2020
- 2,651
- Boat Info
- 1992 300DA Sundancer
- Engines
- Twin Merc Alpha I Gen II I/O's with 5.7 V8's
I think the only reason I went with the small tanks in the past was the fact that they were going into smaller RVs which don't leave much room anywhere for such luxuries. As far as I'm concerned, the bigger the tank, the better. However, if you find yourself needing to replace the pump, the following is a great way to go, as there's no on-off-on-off cycling, and you don't need an accumulator https://www.amazon.com/Flojet-R4426...s=VFLO+5.0&qid=1607640051&s=automotive&sr=1-2 However, it looks like we've thoroughly derailed the OP's original question of how to fix his water leak. Ain't it always the way?
To cut the noise down, use a piece of closed cell foam like a camping or yoga mat sandwiched between two pieces of 1/4" plywood. Cut the bottom piece about 1" bigger both ways so you can screw it down. Then fasten the pump to the upper piece of plywood with short screws that will not penetrate through the foam.
