commander 3000 classic controller

[capz]

This problem has come up before on this board but as far as I can tell has not been solved. When I put my control in forward I get no acceleration until it hits halfway. I.E the air intake flap doesn't open until the handle is 4-6 inches in gear. I've tried every easy adjustment. The cables are secure as far as I can tell. The only questionable bend in the cable route I see is when the cables first come out of the control box at the handle. The box is mounted with the cables pointing straight down. It then has to make a 90 degree turn to where it goes through the bulkhead. Could this be the problem? Should this be mounted so the cables point straight at the hole in the bulkhead?
Any input appreciated as I'm about to trash my controller and cables and get a Gen 2 controller, probably for big dollars that I'd like to put towards gas and bait.

 

[Stray Cat]

My prior boat was the same as yours, and the 3000 series controller went about 6 years before it failed. It is likely the mechanism that controls the arms that the cables fastens to in the controller are worn to the point where they won't engage until the throttle is moved 4 to 6 inches. When you push the button in for throttle only, do you have the same throttle function as when you shift into forward? When mine failed, I tore it apart, and though it was greased well from the factory, the mechanical linkage to the cables were extremely worn.

Though it requires replacing the shift and throttle cables, it would be wise to change it over to the new series controller. Consider yourself fortunate that your's failed in the manner it did....mine wouldn't return to neutral while I was docking.

 

[capz]

I figured it was a problem in the control box. Thank you for confirming this. I'll start looking for a new controller. Anyone have any experience with Morse SL3 controls? or should I just stick with the newer Commander model?

 

[Stray Cat]

I've heard good things about the Merc's 4000 series controller. There is supposed to be two variations of shift and throttle cables available. The better of the two cable sets is said to have a teflon liner in the cable housing, which might make it pricey, but it should shift real smooth...

Keep in mind there is a neutral switch that plugs into the ignition circuit from the control box. I'm not certain what changes you would find by switching to a Morse control.