Cold Start on a rebuit carborated engine

bkdude

New Member
Aug 2, 2013
44
Michigan
Boat Info
1984 Sundancer SRV 245
Engines
5.7L Mercruiser 260
So I have have new to me 1984 245DA with a newly rebuilt engine. I have only gotten it out on the water once and I am sure it was run a couple of times before I got there so there was no problem starting it up.

A month or so passes and I decided to go start the boat up in the driveway. (out-drive submersed in container of water with hose running to it)

It just would not start. at first I thought it was the battery being low so I let it charge for a while. Still no go. getting frustrated and realizing that with spark and gas the only thing missing is air. so I take off the flame arrester and prop open the carb intake to let the air in. It took a couple of minutes but it got running and all was well. My question for all of you is. With these old boats not being EFI, is there a choke? if so, how do I use it, it's not like a car that I can go step on the gas pedal :). how do I get this newly rebuilt engine to start cold without having to prop open the carb?

Thanks.
 
Actually it is probably like a car. Get the shift lever into throttle only position and push it down and return to a spot just before engaging the gears that should set the choke. Another thought is that you if you have a Rochester carb they are known for leaking through the bottom of the float bowls. Durnig the rebuild there is a screw that needs to be sealed to keep this from happening.
 
Actually it is probably like a car. Get the shift lever into throttle only position and push it down and return to a spot just before engaging the gears that should set the choke. Another thought is that you if you have a Rochester carb they are known for leaking through the bottom of the float bowls. Durnig the rebuild there is a screw that needs to be sealed to keep this from happening.

+1. On my '86 Seville if I push the throttle all the way forward and return it neutral it will set the choke and it usually fires right up. I did have to rebuild my carb in the spring due to the screw sdarc mentioned leaking. It would flood it after each run.
 
should have a choke pulloff just like a car too
when the engine fires and vacuum is applied to it the choke plate should back off about 1/4"
then the choke stove..electric or spring ..should pull it back when it heats up.
 
i have two almost new carbed 5.0's in my boat and i need to push the throttles slowly into wide open then back to neutral before i push the start buttons. fires right up every time. even though i have the TKS it's not a fool proof system. make sure you use throttle only and not in gear.
 
i have two almost new carbed 5.0's in my boat and i need to push the throttles slowly into wide open then back to neutral before i push the start buttons. fires right up every time. even though i have the TKS it's not a fool proof system. make sure you use throttle only and not in gear.

So Just to update everyone. I talked to the Person who rebuilt the engine for me today. He told me the carb has an automatic choke. after going through my head the events of that day. I think what happened was that, I ran the battery down (because I was cleaning the inside of the boat during the day) just enough that it would crank the starter but not enough to get the engine going. When it didn't work, I just kept on trying and kept on trying.... I think you all know what I did...... Yes, I think I flooded the engine. and By taking off the flame arrestor and opening up the choke plate, I allowed enough air back into the fuel to get it running.

Silly me but I know now! I still think I'm going to do what AFD suggests and push it all the way forward slowly and then back to neutral. I'll be trying this in the morning before I head out to the lake. I don't want to get all the way out there and not be able to start the dang thing.

Wish me luck!
 

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