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If it's a Norcold, it could be the A/C power board on top of the unit..had the same issue a couple of years ago..took a while to get the replacement part, but changing it out was fairly simple..My cockpit fridge works great on DC power, will not run on AC. Can anybody tell me where to start troubleshooting? Thanks for help!
My Norcold cockpit fridge is not staying cold either on AC or DC. Has anyone had good luck having their unit repaired. I'm thinking since it is fifteen years young it would be better to spend the bucks to just replace the entire unit. It's just hard to swallow spending north of a grand for such a small unit simply because it is for a boat! There doesn't seem to be one damn design feature that distinguishes a marine fridge from an RV fridge or a household unit other AC/DC and a to allow for securing it.
My Norcold cockpit fridge is not staying cold either on AC or DC. Has anyone had good luck having their unit repaired. I'm thinking since it is fifteen years young it would be better to spend the bucks to just replace the entire unit. It's just hard to swallow spending north of a grand for such a small unit simply because it is for a boat! There doesn't seem to be one damn design feature that distinguishes a marine fridge from an RV fridge or a household unit other AC/DC and a to allow for securing it.
I serviced mine after installing a Schrader valve assembly. Before I put any Freon in I was reading about 40 psi on the low side with the fridge on. Since it was not getting cold I shot a few ounces in and put a digital thermometer inside and left it run overnight. Today I went to the boat and found the fridge running but the temp at 59 degrees. Not sure where to go from here other than cave and just replace it as it is 15 years old.Rusty-I tried the "bullet valve" and R34 on my galley Norcold. Had I known what I was doing in the beginning, maybe I could have saved it. Bullet Valve is a self piercing valve. It goes on the low pressure side and is nothing more than a schrader valve that pierces the copper refrigerant line. Then you hook up to the same can of R34 that goes into your car(like $4.99/can at Wally World and need only one) and you put in a minimal amount. I had a set of HVAC gauges and did not know what the pressure should be. I finally found out it should be -2 to +2psi. I put far too much in it and screwed up the compressor. It did work for a time after I got the pressure corrected. Just does not take much R34 at all.
Bennett