(Circulation) Water Pump Question

One more thing. We did the bucket trick and got close to the 7.5 quarts, however I just held the bucket under the overboard discharge. I think we averaged just under 7. I am sure some of the water goes out the underwater exhaust.
No sure if there is enough room to get a bucket in a place between engines to catch the water from the hose before the heat exchanger, plus there is alot of electrical in the vicinity. Batteries, starter, distributor, engine harness, so will leave that to last resort.
 
Just to be clear... this boat has twin engines and BOTH are having the exact same problems with the temperatures?
 
No, just the starboard. Port runs at 175ish or under.
 
Goatz I ran across a small issue while fixing mine and thought I might pass it along. I had a pocket of air that really put a stop to my repairs. Then I remembered an old trick of my dads. It will kill two birds for you. Take the cap off the heat exchanger then start the motor and let it idle. The air will escape through the open cap, you should be able to see the antifreeze moving. If the exchanger overflows then you know you still have a blockage. I don’t know if this will help but it did for me.
 
Goatz said:
No, just the starboard. Port runs at 175ish or under.
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Have you used an IR gun on various hoses and engine parts to see where it's different between the two engines?
 
I picked up this radiator funnel thing that helps with bleeding/burping the cooling system, so when I refill I hope that it helps get all the air out of the system.
I do have a IR gun. It just been a while since using. All temps seamed higher then the other. Engine wast not overheating, but hitting the 200 range so we alway bring her back. Will not likely have time this weekend to work on it so, everything is paused.
Thanks
 
Well, heard from Radiator Shop. Said too many of the tubes have leaks in them to be efficient at cooling. So now we got a paper weight. We have a heat exchanger on order from Lenco. There goes the fun boat project funds for this winter. Should be here next week so guess we will see if the Radiator Shop is correct. Stay tuned.
So Lenco asked if we wanted an anode. We said no because our boat is set up that the shaft seals tie into the drain port on the heat exchangers for cooling/lubricating. What do other have for this vintage boat with inboards. Where do your shafts get there cooling/lubricating water. I would assume they tee into the waterline running from the trans cooler to the heat exchanger, how ever our shaft seals supply run up the startboard side of each engine, where the supply for the heat exchanger is on the port side of each engine, so this would be a big job to change. Plus to get to the shaft seals to install longer supply lines would be really difficult. That is why we had to pull and engine last year. To get at the seals.
 
Installed new heat exchanger today. We have a constant 170 degrees and it seems to be running well but still steam from exhaust. Wondering now if it's fuel issue. We went full throttle and could barely reach 3800 rpm.
 
Bill Goetz said:
Installed new heat exchanger today. We have a constant 170 degrees and it seems to be running well but still steam from exhaust. Wondering now if it's fuel issue. We went full throttle and could barely reach 3800 rpm.
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Since you haven't been able to run the boat hard for a bit... how's the bottom looking?
 
Bill Goetz said:
Installed new heat exchanger today. We have a constant 170 degrees and it seems to be running well but still steam from exhaust. Wondering now if it's fuel issue. We went full throttle and could barely reach 3800 rpm.
Click to expand...
The issue over there has always been bottom growth and jellyfish. You’ve been sitting for about a month hunting the heating issue. It would amaze me if you even got on plane.

34’s always steam like that, hell mine was doing it last week and I was at 145 constantly on both. I now have a diver coming once a month until winter sets in.

Check the bottom before you spend to much more
 
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