- Aug 20, 2021
- 1,314
- Boat Info
- Started out as MAYBE A DANCER
Became a Dancer - 12/23/21
- Engines
- 450 DA Sundancer running CAT 3126
New to me 450DA w/ Factory standard swim platform.
Aluminum backing plates are used both inside and outside the hull to spread the load out on the swim platform supporting bolts.
Surveyor pointed out significant galvanic corrosion between the stainless bolts/washers and the aluminum backing plates.
Here's a closeup:
Surveyor recommended removing the bolts ONE AT A TIME and replacing the outside aluminum backing blocks with 1/4" GPO3 or G10 fiberglass material.
I bought this sheet on Amazon and cut the new blocks out:
Amazon.com: GPO3 Fiberglass Sheet (1/4") .250" x 24" x 36" : Industrial & Scientific
This may come in handy for other projects as well.
The inside the hull aluminum backing plates are FINE.
Had to chip away the corrosion to get to the bolt heads, which were surprisingly in PERFECT CONDITION, but take a look at these backing plates:
This 1996 DA was a DOCK QUEEN in a large California marina.
Removal of her rudders indicated a bit of galvanic corrosion in her past.
I don't know if this is a chronic problem that comes with age & saltwater boats where y'all need to check yours, or just a specific issue with this one.
Anyway, I thought it would benefit CSR to share the problem...
and the solution...
(photo is sideways)
and the solution.
My background is twin 30 amp 120 volt systems. Never dealt with 50 AMP 220 volt systems.
So, moving forward...
Galvanic Isolators Explained | BoatUS
Is this more or less an isolated situation?
I understand the corrosion, but was surprised by the severity, especially with these being ABOVE THE WATER LINE.
Thoughts?
BEST !
RWS
Aluminum backing plates are used both inside and outside the hull to spread the load out on the swim platform supporting bolts.
Surveyor pointed out significant galvanic corrosion between the stainless bolts/washers and the aluminum backing plates.
Here's a closeup:
Surveyor recommended removing the bolts ONE AT A TIME and replacing the outside aluminum backing blocks with 1/4" GPO3 or G10 fiberglass material.
I bought this sheet on Amazon and cut the new blocks out:
Amazon.com: GPO3 Fiberglass Sheet (1/4") .250" x 24" x 36" : Industrial & Scientific
This may come in handy for other projects as well.
The inside the hull aluminum backing plates are FINE.
Had to chip away the corrosion to get to the bolt heads, which were surprisingly in PERFECT CONDITION, but take a look at these backing plates:
This 1996 DA was a DOCK QUEEN in a large California marina.
Removal of her rudders indicated a bit of galvanic corrosion in her past.
I don't know if this is a chronic problem that comes with age & saltwater boats where y'all need to check yours, or just a specific issue with this one.
Anyway, I thought it would benefit CSR to share the problem...
and the solution...
(photo is sideways)
and the solution.
My background is twin 30 amp 120 volt systems. Never dealt with 50 AMP 220 volt systems.
So, moving forward...
- should these above the water line bolts be bonded?
- Should I consider a galvanic isolator?
Galvanic Isolators Explained | BoatUS
Is this more or less an isolated situation?
I understand the corrosion, but was surprised by the severity, especially with these being ABOVE THE WATER LINE.
Thoughts?
BEST !
RWS