Jimmy Buoy
Well-Known Member
- Dec 3, 2008
- 2,468
- Boat Info
- 2003 Cobalt 293
- Engines
- Twin Volvo-Penta 5.0 270hp & DuoProps
Finally, after about 2 months of waiting the new fuel sender arrived. :smt024
After deciding to get a simpler, more accurate fuel sender to replace my original arm/float/resistor one that died I had to measure the depth of my tank (19.5") and relay the info to ??? . Based on the depth and type of gauge used, the appropriate model (18" 2 wire resistor) needed to be ordered from the SSI factory since they didn't have it in stock.:smt013
It was to be shipped June 10th, but nothing arrived by mid-July. After contacting them again, it was discovered that SSI sent them the wrong model, but they sent the right one once notified and it arrived a couple of days later.
That's the hard part!:wow:
The easy part is the installation.
Simply take the old unit out.
Get five #10 stainless bolts that are about 1/4" longer than the original mounting bolts and mount the new unit. (very easy since nothing is actually placed into the tank and nothing needs to be adjusted).
Remove the plug on the sender by cutting both the pink and black wires and cut the ring fittings off the original fuel sender's pink and black wires. Then splice the pink to pink - and black to black.
Turn on the ignition switch and see the fuel gauge do it's thing!:thumbsup:
Now it won't indicate full unless there isn't any air between the sender and the fuel. It won't indicate empty unless it can measure 18" of air between the sender and the fuel below. It also will not have the bouncy gauge syndrome since it averages its readings over a period of time - taking into account fuel sloshing up and down in the tank.
Seems to be worth the additional $50 over a traditional type.
Here's some photos...:smt001
http://clubsearay.com/forum/album.php?albumid=490
After deciding to get a simpler, more accurate fuel sender to replace my original arm/float/resistor one that died I had to measure the depth of my tank (19.5") and relay the info to ??? . Based on the depth and type of gauge used, the appropriate model (18" 2 wire resistor) needed to be ordered from the SSI factory since they didn't have it in stock.:smt013
It was to be shipped June 10th, but nothing arrived by mid-July. After contacting them again, it was discovered that SSI sent them the wrong model, but they sent the right one once notified and it arrived a couple of days later.
That's the hard part!:wow:
The easy part is the installation.
Simply take the old unit out.
Get five #10 stainless bolts that are about 1/4" longer than the original mounting bolts and mount the new unit. (very easy since nothing is actually placed into the tank and nothing needs to be adjusted).
Remove the plug on the sender by cutting both the pink and black wires and cut the ring fittings off the original fuel sender's pink and black wires. Then splice the pink to pink - and black to black.
Turn on the ignition switch and see the fuel gauge do it's thing!:thumbsup:
Now it won't indicate full unless there isn't any air between the sender and the fuel. It won't indicate empty unless it can measure 18" of air between the sender and the fuel below. It also will not have the bouncy gauge syndrome since it averages its readings over a period of time - taking into account fuel sloshing up and down in the tank.
Seems to be worth the additional $50 over a traditional type.
Here's some photos...:smt001
http://clubsearay.com/forum/album.php?albumid=490
