Cheap inexpensive LED upgrade

Half Fast

Member
Apr 17, 2010
135
Massapequa, Long Island
Boat Info
1999 27' Sundancer
Engines
6.2 MPI (2005)
(redundant title for easy searching)

I decided to do as much LED swapping as I could on my 270 - and started the typical research online.


There were a number of threads that were very helpful here, but most pointed to LED sources that frankly seemed incredibly overpriced for what they were selling. It seems like you take a china part and list it on a website that says something about marine and all of a sudden it is 10 times the price it should be.


Here is what I settled on and the prices I paid:


Cockpit Lights:


I have two Perko cockpit lights that uses 42mm (1.72") festoon bulbs. I wanted a change of color here. I saw a mod posted here where someone hotglued a G4 socket into the Perko housing and put in a white/red color changing LED disc - that seemed like a lot of work and was still a decent amout of money in parts. I also saw a lot of people replacing the whole unit with one of those $90 red/blue/dimmable white units. Then I stumbled across someone who simply replaced their festoon with a colored festoon bulb form superbrightleds. This sounded like a nice inexpensive route but superbright wants $15!! for the bulb, and it only has 6 5050SMDs on the board. That seemed pricey to me too. Here is what I ordered:


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IWHZPQ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


It has 12 5050 SMDs, fits perfectly in the existing Perko unit, and 4 of them are $6.99 on amazon, Prime eligible. $1.75 a bulb - that's more like it.


Interior Spotlights:


I have the 12v spots with G4 bulbs in them. I saw a number of suggested replacements for these as well, from backpinned discs to rectangular boards, etc. Again, prices were all over the place, but averaged somewhere around $10 a bulb! Good grief charley brown.


I ended up using these. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J8C12A8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They are 1.5 watts and are supposed to be equivalent light output to a 10W standard bulb and I would say that is fairly accurate. The warm white is somewhere between white and warm white. They are encased in a bulb-shaped silica gel housing, making the board itself about as weatherproof s you can get - and are $11.99 for 6 w/ Prime shipping. $1.99 a bulb. One of the 6 was defective and only put out about half the light of the others... which are all going strong. I really like the design of these bulbs.


Interior BA15S replacements:


The overhead light in the bathroom has two BA15S bulbs, and the overhead in the cabin area over the "hallway" to the aft cabin had a single BA15S. Again I saw a number of different options for this, some all-in-one led bulbs, etc. - and again all seemed too pricey (well, for me anyway). Here is what I ordered:


3 BA15S to G4 socket adapters. I got them for $.98 each from here: https://www.wiredco.com/Bayonet_socket_adapter_for_LED_G4_Pins_p/baysktadapt1.htm. Since I liked the design of the other G4 bulbs I ordered - I ordered the same style but the 3watt version, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J8BTCV0/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1 which has double the LEDs and is supposed to be the equivalent of a 20W and I would say it is. The warm white is not nearly as warm as the 1.5 watt version. I am not sure why that is as it appears to use mostly the exact same components. It is closer to a pure white. It is not blueish in any way. They are $11.99 for 4. $4 a bulb including the $.99 socket adapter.


Random bling upgrade:


The circular light over the galley has two bulbs, a 110v and a 12v. The 12v is a g4 socket, and there are so many other lights available in the cabin, I thought it would be neat to turn this into a dual purpose light fixture. I kept the existing white bulb for 110v, but replaced the 12v g4 with a colorchanging disc. Now one switch is white and the other is partytime. The disc was a whopping $9.99, from the same place I ordered the socket adapters. https://www.wiredco.com/9_LED_SMT_SMD_RGB_Color_G4_Disc_LED_Module_12VAC_p/ledrgb12v2.htm


I spent a total of $43.90 (plus $6.95 for shipping from the one vendor, Amazon stuff shipped free) to upgrade almost every light on the boat excluding nav lights, and I have a few bulbs left over.


Hope this gives people some alternate ideas - happy boating!
 
Last edited:
Nice article/post. Thanks.

If I may..... Do NOT just replace the bulbs on the nav lights. Spend the few extra $$$$ for the Atwood 3500 series or something similar. The Atwoods are completely weather sealed and they are USCG certified as meeting the proper color spectrum.

Would a bulb suffice. Probably right up until you get boarded or (God forbid) in an accident.
 
Just remember there is a big difference between cheap and inexpensive.
 
Nice article/post. Thanks.

If I may..... Do NOT just replace the bulbs on the nav lights. Spend the few extra $$$$ for the Atwood 3500 series or something similar. The Atwoods are completely weather sealed and they are USCG certified as meeting the proper color spectrum.

Would a bulb suffice. Probably right up until you get boarded or (God forbid) in an accident.

Nav lights were not on my radar, for the reasons you mention as well as the fact that one of the main drivers for my replacements was energy draw when on battery with engines off .. I'm not overly concerned about what my running lights are drawing while I'm underway... and I don't do a heck of a lot of night time anchoring.
 
Just remember there is a big difference between cheap and inexpensive.

LOL, agreed. I tried for the most part to limit my part searches to well reviewed items, I tried to stay away from random ebay sellers, etc. The 12 SMD blue festoons had no reviews, but I had ordered other cutequeen bulbs for automotive purposes in the past and felt the quality was always good. So far everything I have installed has been rock solid other than the 1 bulb that was dim out of the box. "cheap" in title is just to help for those that search for "cheap led".
 
Conficuis say " Pay crap...get crap" . Tried the cheep route for LED's and found quality and longevity to be very much over stated. After several "less expensive" attempts, I want to Marine Beam and never looked back. I'm just sayin'
 
Don't the cheaper versions get extremely hot as well?
 
I paid $4 each for these G4s, they got so hot they almost caught fire. Keep an eye on your new LEDs for at least the first few hours of use.

IMG_0636.jpg
 
Don't the cheaper versions get extremely hot as well?

I tend to research to the point of paralysis, and while I have seen warnings of this, one of the first things I did was monitor the bulbs at different voltages - standing battery, engine running battery, and house charger on - and I did not see any significant rise in temperature or output on any of the items I mentioned in my post. In all scenarios the led bulbs I installed were significantly cooler after 10 minutes than the stock incandescent bulbs they replaced (the incandescent bulbs were substantially hotter after only a few seconds). Obviously I'm not going to go out on a limb and guarantee the safety of a $2 bulb so if that is at all a concern for anyone I would keep to whatever vendor's products let you sleep at night.
 
Maybe your's were the "inexpensive" ones and not the "cheap" ones. :huh: We weren't slamming your purchase just pointing out some facts that others have posted in the past.
 
I tend to research to the point of paralysis, and while I have seen warnings of this, one of the first things I did was monitor the bulbs at different voltages - standing battery, engine running battery, and house charger on - and I did not see any significant rise in temperature or output on any of the items I mentioned in my post. In all scenarios the led bulbs I installed were significantly cooler after 10 minutes than the stock incandescent bulbs they replaced (the incandescent bulbs were substantially hotter after only a few seconds). Obviously I'm not going to go out on a limb and guarantee the safety of a $2 bulb so if that is at all a concern for anyone I would keep to whatever vendor's products let you sleep at night.

Not trying to slam you at all. Hell I bought $4 G4s!

Just sharing an LED experience with the cheap ones......they literally smoked.
 
l purchased the bulbs mentioned at the beginning of this thread to replace my cabin lighting - specifically these ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J8C12A8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) As mentioned they are encased in a silicon gel. There are multiple LEDs on the board to make up the bulb and give it a 360* output. I was extremely pleased initally with the color and the drop in DC current (originally 10amp with all lights on, down to 1.5amp after all cabin halogens replaced. What I am disapppointed in is the fact that a few of the SMD LEDs that make up the entire 'bulb' have started to flicker which to no surpise creates an annoance. Out of the pack of 6 I'd say at least 2 are doing it. I don't know if I got a bad batch or not.
 
I can't offer any advice on the interior or nav lights but I just had all my exterior lights replaced on my boat. Cost was about $200 dollars, and they are all completely new fixtures except the 3 in the roof. My father did them for me as a thank you for letting himself and my mom use my boat, and he said the only thing that was a pain in the Ass was they were 3 hole units and the originals were 4, or vice versa.









And of course everyone needs LED's around there bed haha

These here are the Lumitec underwater LED's
 
Took a picture the other night of the 2x(12 5050 SMD) festoons I linked in the original post that are sitting in the stock perko housings - one under the rear bench and one in the driver's footwell.

xAuSqJC.jpg
 
Thanks for the LED links. Being an Amazon prime nut myself, I will try some of these.

Steve
 
@Dale. I just bought the same except I got the 3W version. 4 pak. They are a bit whiter than the original which is fine. I will let you know if I get any flickering.
 
Thank you. I did contact the original seller on Amazon and they gave me an in good faith refund in the event the LEDS were a bad batch. I did reorder another set through them to replace what was bad and will see how they do. I replaced 4 of the 6 that came from them originally. So far being on the hook last weekend no problems. It took 2-3 weeks to rear it's head so we will see. If they blink out again I will request another refund and go a different direction.
 
Greetings All,

I had a discussion with my electronics engineer about the current limiting resistor (less expensive) vs. the active constant current controlled (more expensive) LED's that you are seeing on the market.


For the less expensive, IF the current limiting resistor is sized appropriately AND the charging system on your boat is normal (regulator working) you should have no problem unless you are the first person to test your new LED's.

For the less expensive and even more so with the ultra cheep LED's it is entirely possible that you will be the first person to apply power to the bulb.
One of the ways that the LED's get cost reduced is to check very few out of a lot. This is generally to look for manufacturing issues that can trash an entire lot and not test the bulb (although that comes along for free)

Purely electronic devices fail in what is referred to as infant mortality (generally). They crap out within minutes of being powered up or they go on to live very long and happy lives.

Hope this helps someone....

-Mike
 
I am an electronics engineer - and China Export LED's in general are a no go. Not only LED's but also most other "China designed" Electronics should be avoided.

1. The LED's in general get very very hot compared to quality LED's (not regulated correct for automotive use) - my rule of thumb < 30-35 deg Celsius (86f) so just slightly finger warm for normal boat LED's. Hotter than that - then something is probably wrong. I have seen China LED's reach 110-130 deg Celsius.... That is enough to light up paper.

2. They send out a lot of noise (put a scope on the power line) - that noise can mess with your other electronics not limited to sonar, radar, CO2 sensors and other electronic circuits. You will usually find they save on capacitors - or use the wrong type - or don't put any on at all. They might also send out radio noise if they by "accident" run the regulator at a frequency that interfere fx with your VHF. I test with my Spectrum Analyser and it is amazing how many frequencies you can get out of a LED light.

3. Power Supply circuits made in China by Chinese companies are in GENERAL pure crap (There are a few exceptions) Every LED light has a power supply/regulator - some don't and rely purely on resistors (don't even try those) - Power supplies spec'ed/designed by western companies - built in china are generally much better.

4. Fake components : 20-30% of ALL China components are FAKE - so cheaper brand models stamped with "great company" logo's - so instead of CREE (Great US LED brand) you get "FLEE" - but VERY experienced companies usually escape the fake component trap - but sometimes they do fall in....

And last but not least - ask a Chinese person IN CHINA which countries they would buy electronics from. That should upset your stomach more than some of their special dishes :) China is not even ON the list. And it is not because of western popular brands. It is just they do know what goes on.

So please - just keep an eye on them for a while - check the lights temperature - especially while you are running your engines/alternators. The 1 to 1 1/2 volt voltage increase can be enough to send the lights from warm to burning hot.
 
I am an electronics engineer - and China Export LED's in general are a no go. Not only LED's but also most other "China designed" Electronics should be avoided.

1. The LED's in general get very very hot compared to quality LED's (not regulated correct for automotive use) - my rule of thumb < 30-35 deg Celsius (86f) so just slightly finger warm for normal boat LED's. Hotter than that - then something is probably wrong. I have seen China LED's reach 110-130 deg Celsius.... That is enough to light up paper.

2. They send out a lot of noise (put a scope on the power line) - that noise can mess with your other electronics not limited to sonar, radar, CO2 sensors and other electronic circuits. You will usually find they save on capacitors - or use the wrong type - or don't put any on at all. They might also send out radio noise if they by "accident" run the regulator at a frequency that interfere fx with your VHF. I test with my Spectrum Analyser and it is amazing how many frequencies you can get out of a LED light.

3. Power Supply circuits made in China by Chinese companies are in GENERAL pure crap (There are a few exceptions) Every LED light has a power supply/regulator - some don't and rely purely on resistors (don't even try those) - Power supplies spec'ed/designed by western companies - built in china are generally much better.

4. Fake components : 20-30% of ALL China components are FAKE - so cheaper brand models stamped with "great company" logo's - so instead of CREE (Great US LED brand) you get "FLEE" - but VERY experienced companies usually escape the fake component trap - but sometimes they do fall in....

And last but not least - ask a Chinese person IN CHINA which countries they would buy electronics from. That should upset your stomach more than some of their special dishes :) China is not even ON the list. And it is not because of western popular brands. It is just they do know what goes on.

So please - just keep an eye on them for a while - check the lights temperature - especially while you are running your engines/alternators. The 1 to 1 1/2 volt voltage increase can be enough to send the lights from warm to burning hot.

Can you explain #3

Every LED light has a power supply/regulator - some don't and rely purely on resistors (don't even try those) - Power supplies spec'ed/designed by western companies - built in china are generally much better.

I'm not an EE but I understand OHM's law quite well and the constant voltage drop across a diode and in this case an LED. I would need something better than (don't even try these)

Thanks,

-Mike
 

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