Changing trans fluid in Hurth V-Drive

"Any good Dexron III ttype ATF from a premium manufacturer works,"

What brand do you recommend?
 
Changed the Fluid Today - Hurth 63 IV

Necessary information to do this job:

1) The cap which seems to screw off to reveal the filter does not screw off. (It is marked with arrows to rotate to loosen - this is deceptive). It has a 6mm alan wrench bolt in the center. The alan bolt goes through a standard washer, then through a 1" diameter aluminum cap, then through the cannister cap and into a rigid inner cap which fits snuggly to the filter using a 1" O-ring (approx).

2) The cannister cap itself has a tab on the side of the top. This is used to lift the cannister cap off once the alan bolt is loosened and the O-ring is relaxed. When the alan bolt is tightened, it pulls the cannister cap down and close to the inner cap, which is pulled up, to squash the thick, rubber O-ring between them. The O-ring expands to push out against the inner lip of the cannister. This seals the top of the cannister and holds the top on. The cap does not fasten hard to the filter cannister.

3) In order to put the top on, you have to push it down as you tighten the alan bolt. It's possible to tighten the alan bolt and squeeze the whole top off, or so it seems.

4) The whole transmission is painted after assembled. The parts can not be separated without disturbing the outer coating of paint. If your paint is un-disturbed, your filter has never been checked. Even the dip stick has black paint over-spray on it.

5) Transmission fluid level is checked immediately after stopping use. Shut down, unscrew the dip stick, wipe it off, insert it, take it out and measure. DO NOT SCREW IT IN TO CHECK FLUID LEVEL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you do, you will indicate in the middle of the acceptable range even though you are about 1/2 quart low (my approximation from trial and error - I added, sucked out (STS), added to determine the effect of 1/4 quart variations). Too much fluid will make your trans run hot.

My filters did not have any metal flake in them, but they did have traces of metal sludge. The bottom of the filter cannister had some black sludge mixed with the apparently stagnant fluid in that area. I wiped it clean being careful to not let the sludge drip through the center hole. You suck the fluid out through that hole.
 
Most of us in Grand Haven do not change tranny fluid every year even if we run 150 hours which is pretty common. I initially went by the book on my 30 foot weekender. After doing this about 4 years in a row my service manager said it wasn't necessary. He suggested every 3-4 years unless the fluid changed colors or smelled differently. My compromise is now every other year which is about 300 hours. The fluid always looks the same and the filters are always clean. I've been doing it this way for about 20 years and have never had a problem. This seems counter intuitive since engine oil is a must and I never cheat on that schedule. Ocean boats probably have more severe conditions, but in fresh water, I've become convinced that you can extend the service intervals, save money and not be penny wise and pound foolish.
 
Well, it seems I have followed sbw1's advice, though perhaps not by choice. I'm not sure if mine has ever been changed. I have 250 hours, and my boat was first delivered to the dealer just over 3 years ago.
 
Just performed my 25 hour transmission fluid change (ZF63V) and used the moeller pump and it completely drained the fluid in 8-10 mins. I found generic filters, that are exact replacements for $37 a piece from MER marine in Seattle. I used Valvoline DEX/Merc III fluid. Is there a premium fluid over what I chose? I too was concerned that ZF marine did not specify exactly the fluid I used.
 
Good afternoon,

I've found this thread quite helpful while preparing to perform the 25hr service on my new ZF63IV. That said, since it appears this thread is quite dated I thought I'd update you all on my conversation with the tech at ZF this morning. With respect to reusing the filters, it was suggested they should not be cleaned and reused. Also while under warranty, I was advised to use OEM filters as a copy would void the warranty. I then searched the web and found Hale Marine to be quite competitive at $48.00 to include both O rings. When extracting the fluid through the hole in the filter chamber I was able to extract all of the oil. Upon filling...don't screw in the dipstick as previously mentioned in the thread...it took about 4.6 quarts. I say this because I've seen in prior comments, to add 5 quarts. As it was explained to me not to overfill as the oil will heat up more than normal, I figured this a fair point to make. Also, I mentioned to the tech that I had some "sediment" in the container I used initially clean the filter with mineral spirits (this of course prior to being told to replace with a new filter) and he mentioned that was fine and a result of the machined parts upon building the unit.

All said, not too difficult a job. Hoping this information is of some value as I've derived quite a deal from all of your prior contributions. Here's to a safe and enjoyable season for all.

Slainte!

Mike Ballin
 
Mike

Timely post. I am getting ready for the same project. ZF lists a boatload of approved fluids, none of which seem to be available in the US. Did ZF tell you what approved fluid to use that was available in the US?
 
The problem with the ZF fluid choices is the manual was printed in Europe. That said, any high quality brand of Dexron/Mercon III is acceptable. I used Cam 2. Cost a bit under $5 /qt. Good luck and...feel free to call my cell #631-235-2318 if you have any questions.
 
mistercomputerman said:
Mike

Timely post. I am getting ready for the same project...
Click to expand...

Rick, you know it's best to do it in the fall before long storage. I know you store in water, but I'm sure for at least couple of months (Jan/Feb) you don't use her.
 
Thanks, Cap'n Alex.

I am on a 125 hour change schedule. When it's time, it's time. Since Mr. Mike talked to ZF, I wanted to verify nothing had changed in fluid recommendations.
 
I understand your point, Rick. I would just move the schedule window to fall time. I think it would only do good to your trainies.
 
All the transmission talk is confusing. We have HSW 630 V1’s and our recent oil analysis says it’s needs changing. 450 hrs (new boat to us). We’ve read the manual (Dex II) and looked through the updated bulletins (several), none of which are on the shelf. Is there a simple, mainstream solution to a recommended fluid? Help appreciated.
 
D Bell said:
All the transmission talk is confusing. We have HSW 630 V1’s and our recent oil analysis says it’s needs changing. 450 hrs (new boat to us). We’ve read the manual (Dex II) and looked through the updated bulletins (several), none of which are on the shelf. Is there a simple, mainstream solution to a recommended fluid? Help appreciated.
Click to expand...
Go to a GM dealership and ask to read the service bulletin on this question of compatibility. Dexron VI reportedly works with older Dexron transmission fluids but you will want to confirm that with a dealer that does service on transmissions. It is also a best practice to remove as much of the old fluid as possible before refilling with the latest generation.
 
It’s ironic that I’ve been researching the same thing for weeks now.
I have downloaded the manual and read almost every post on this. It seems the list in the manual (and several posted here) has part numbers of fluids that I can’t find anywhere. I’m sure I’m overthinking it, but these transmissions would be expensive to change.
So a few hours ago I called ZF directly (North America office) and spoke to a guy in Miramar Florida. I gave him my model number and he gave me a fluid recommendation that was available in most auto parts stores currently. My transmission is different than yours (63 IV) so you might want to call them yourself to get the correct advice.

Also - he was nice enough to send me the owners manual. I did ask for the service manual after, but he said that was not available to me. Fortunaly I found more info online.

I found the contact number on the ZF website.

Hope that helps…
 
Last edited:
boatrboy said:
It’s ironic that I’ve been researching the same thing for weeks now.
I have downloaded the manual and read almost every post on this. It seems the list in the manual (and several posted here) has part numbers of fluids that I can’t find anywhere. I’m sure I’m overthinking it, but these transmissions would be expensive to change.
So a few hours ago I called ZF directly (North America office) and spoke to a guy in Miramar Florida. I gave him my model number and he gave me a fluid recommendation that was available in most auto parts stores currently. My transmission is different than yours (63 IV) so you might want to call them yourself to get the correct advice.

Also - he was nice enough to send me the owners manual. I did ask for the service manual after, but he said that was not available to me. Fortunaly I found more info online.

I found the contact number on the ZF website.

Hope that helps…
Click to expand...


Hello Boatrboy

I also have a new to me 2004 sea ray 340 with the ZF631v 2.0 transmissions and would like to service them, could you relay the information that you received directly from ZF, and would you be able to share the owners manual.

Any help would be welcome
 
CDNBoater said:
Hello Boatrboy

I also have a new to me 2004 sea ray 340 with the ZF631v 2.0 transmissions and would like to service them, could you relay the information that you received directly from ZF, and would you be able to share the owners manual.

Any help would be welcome
Click to expand...
This is the manual. I also sent him this picture front and back of the container to verify it would meet the needs and he confirmed in an email “yes”.
image002.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • 310_01_0005k.pdf
    133.3 KB · Views: 51
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,256
Messages
1,429,419
Members
61,135
Latest member
Gregger
Back
Top