Changing fuel filters

[Glen S]

I thought I would change the spin on fuel filters myself this spring rather than pay the yard to do it. I want to start to get more comfortable working on these engines myself.
The filters are the spin on ones for gasoline that look like an oil filter. I have 5 total. I was wondering what I am getting into. Do I need a big container under them? Will I have gasoline everywhere? Is there a trick to installing the new ones (like adding oil to the seal on an oil filter)? How do you dispose of the old ones?

Any advice or heads up would be appreciated.

 

[Al Gross]

Plan B--
I'm not 100% certain of what 7.4 "spin-on" fuel filters look like. I have 8.1 engine, where fuel filters are integrated into engine, have bolts, and a container to "catch" the debris. BL: changing fuel filters every year is important and relatively easy. Suggest you also change generator fuel filter as well and at same time.
I'd also suggest you use something to catch the gas when you change the filters. I use one of the larger plastic coffee containers with a handle as it is small enough to maneuver in enclosed spaces, but large enough to put filter assembly above it when pulling it out.
Lastly, do NOT put fuel filter back with old gas/debris in it. Empty the "old gas" into container (and any collected debris) and add New gas to top of filter. This will help ensure no vapor lock in your fuel line.
In sum, it is relatively easy and a necessary step you should know how to do, especially in this day/age of Ethanol, which can clog a fuel filter, and may necessitate it be changed out on the water. My quick thoughts & suggestions for what they are worth.

 

[tbirdvet]

If you have the spin on type (like oil filter) then just remove them and have a can or pail to put them in (they will be full of fuel). Put a light coat of oil on the new filter rubber seal and reinstall. Once you empty the filter they will dry out and you can just discard.

 

[Glen S]

Thanks for the advice. I have 5 total to change - one on each delivery line to both main engines and also the generator (3) and also 1 more on each main engine (2). I will get a big container and tackle them one at a time and see how it goes.

Al - I also was thinking I may possibly get less than ideal fuel these days so at least I will know what is involved if I have to do some work on the water.

 

[carterchapman]

Dump them into a clear container so you can examine/determine how much water is in your fuel system. Then what everyone else said about oiling the seal, etc. I fill mine with fresh fuel prior to installing them so I have an easier first start.

If there is little or no water in your discarded fuel, use it for your lawnmower - then you don't have a disposal problem...

 

[Skuza]

Same boat and motors here. I change ours every spring. I have only been aware of the ones on the mains (the oil filter types)? Have not looked close enough on the genny to find one? Thought I remember reading it was a threaded in type on the carb?
To change the mains and minimize the mess I shut the the fuel valves off and start the motors. This uses up up the fuel in the lines and I don't wind up spilling a drop (literally). I just hope that this is not sucking any water and contaminents out of the filter.
A strap wrench makes this job way easier as the seals like to stick. An oil filter wrench would work but the filters are mounted too close to the stringers to get one over the can. Also they are mounted on a plastic bracket that gives when you try to break them loose. You have to be careful to support the bracket as they break loose so it does not crack. I still keep a ziploc under them as I unscrew them off just in case. I never fill the new filter with fresh gas. Instead I cycle the key allowing the pump to fill the filter and line. Do that about 10-20 times.
The boat usually always starts and runs after. Only a couple times has it stalled and been a little tricky to start again. Thats what makes me think is it just loss of prime or contaminents being drawn in.
My way may not be the text book way but it has worked for years. I hate the stink of gas and especially in the bilge which is why I like my zero spill method.

Oh ya and don't forget to turn the fuel valves back on prior to restarting. After one time of about 10 failed starts you find out how I know this...

 

[billnpat]

i thought i would change the spin on fuel filters myself this spring rather than pay the yard to do it. I want to start to get more comfortable working on these engines myself.
The filters are the spin on ones for gasoline that look like an oil filter. I have 5 total. I was wondering what i am getting into. Do i need a big container under them? Will i have gasoline everywhere? Is there a trick to installing the new ones (like adding oil to the seal on an oil filter)? How do you dispose of the old ones?




Any advice or heads up would be appreciated.

your a brave man........good luck....:thumbsup:

 

[Glen S]

Same boat and motors here. I change ours every spring. I have only been aware of the ones on the mains (the oil filter types)? Have not looked close enough on the genny to find one? Thought I remember reading it was a threaded in type on the carb?
To change the mains and minimize the mess I shut the the fuel valves off and start the motors. This uses up up the fuel in the lines and I don't wind up spilling a drop (literally). I just hope that this is not sucking any water and contaminents out of the filter.
A strap wrench makes this job way easier as the seals like to stick. An oil filter wrench would work but the filters are mounted too close to the stringers to get one over the can. Also they are mounted on a plastic bracket that gives when you try to break them loose. You have to be careful to support the bracket as they break loose so it does not crack. I still keep a ziploc under them as I unscrew them off just in case. I never fill the new filter with fresh gas. Instead I cycle the key allowing the pump to fill the filter and line. Do that about 10-20 times.
The boat usually always starts and runs after. Only a couple times has it stalled and been a little tricky to start again. Thats what makes me think is it just loss of prime or contaminents being drawn in.
My way may not be the text book way but it has worked for years. I hate the stink of gas and especially in the bilge which is why I like my zero spill method.

Oh ya and don't forget to turn the fuel valves back on prior to restarting. After one time of about 10 failed starts you find out how I know this...

Skuza,
Like you I am really trying to avoid the gas spill and resultant smell in the ER and on me. I like your idea of having the lines and filter free of fuel - but I guess there would be the possibility of taking any water in at the end that the filter may have seperated. I might try changing the genny filter first and see how it goes. On our boat that spin on filter is located on a vertical post just forward of the generator and is the same as the main engine in-line filters and engine mounted filters. They are currently all Fram PS3808.

 

[Havana Shamrock]

I was told to make sure to use the Mercury, or quiksilver 10 micron filters by the mech. He just spun them off and emptied them into a clear container to sit for a few mins, then he showed me the gunk on the bottom, that was the phase seperation we all worry about thats why its important to use name brands with 10 micron filtration he stated. Your lucky you have that type the 04's i believe started the cool fuel modules where the coffee filter type is bolted in and cost $$$$ just to buy. Its. Very easy to do just take your time and ask questions

 

[johnsross3]

When I change my fuel and oil filters I wrap a zip lock baggie (the heavier duty type) around each filter as I loosen each one and allow the fliter to drop into the baggie when its off. I then zip it shut and allow the filter to drain into the baggie. After letting it sit a few minutes I can readily see any water or debris that was in the filter. It might seem awkward at first (you have to crack the filter loose before putting the baggie around it, but its been pretty spill and mess proof for me. It also works well when the filter is located near other obstructions where a pan or bucket couldn't otherwise be used.

 

[Glen S]

Thanks for all the advice. I am a bit more comfortable giving this a try.

 

[1956olds]

Three things ,first sometimes there will be slight pressure in the fuel line so just crack it a bit,second i saw a cup for sale the other day cant remember where just for this purpose it catches spillage from filter and acts as a gripper to spin it off also,third,make sure the o-ring comes off with the old filter.