Changing dripless seals 2009/10 350-370 dancer 8.1 v drives

[Partyoffive]

hello all
Both dripless shaft seals began leaking. First the port, although the drip is minimal even under load. About 2 weeks ( and several trips) later, the stbd seal started leaking pretty good under load, enough to activate pumps after 30 minutes of running time. When motor is off the drip, while steady, is easily managed. I checked both shafts and both have the spare “ seal carriers” forward of the dripless. I needed a telescopic mirror to even find them as they are almost directly under the transmissions. I can’t see how it’s possible to replace the old seals with the new given the locations of the dripless boot itself and the spare seal carrier. At this point I’m looking at a haul and shaft removal as the only feasible alternative, and have my yard do the work. A few questions:

1. Any advice/ thoughts on above? Is there a way to get to the spares? ( the boat is 14 years old 370 hours in salt water and I assume the spares are originals.
2. If shafts are pulled is there any other maintenance to consider? Im not looking to add any extra cost unnecessarily?

Thank you!

 

[jmauld]

I was just getting ready to post this. My starboard seal is leaking while running. I probably have a little bit more shoulder room than you do, but those things are way down there and I’m not sure my back will be able to survive changing them. I’ve watched a couple of YouTube videos, but of course, it was on a boat where you could walk around the shaft and had full access to it.

If you’re pulling the shafts, you should probably have your props refinished. They have likely taken a few bruises here and there.

I was thinking about having mine modified for a little bit more low end power and less speed. Just looking to reduce how much the engines always feel like they’re struggling.

 

[Partyoffive]

I was just getting ready to post this. My starboard seal is leaking while running. I probably have a little bit more shoulder room than you do, but those things are way down there and I’m not sure my back will be able to survive changing them. I’ve watched a couple of YouTube videos, but of course, it was on a boat where you could walk around the shaft and had full access to it.

Yes the change is easy on all videos IF you can get to the damn things! Ugh !!

 

[Partyoffive]

I was just getting ready to post this. My starboard seal is leaking while running. I probably have a little bit more shoulder room than you do, but those things are way down there and I’m not sure my back will be able to survive changing them. I’ve watched a couple of YouTube videos, but of course, it was on a boat where you could walk around the shaft and had full access to it.

If you’re pulling the shafts, you should probably have your props refinished. They have likely taken a few bruises here and there.

I was thinking about having mine modified for a little bit more low end power and less speed. Just looking to reduce how much the engines always feel like they’re struggling.

Good idea on the props although given I’m probably a few thousand pounds lighter find I have plenty of power out of the hole. TY

 

[Golfman25]

The nice thing about the tides is you can do it mostly by feel. It’s basically just cutting the old one out and slipping the new one in. It’s standing on your head that is difficult. And I wouldn’t want to do in the water.

If you’re going to pull the shafts, do the cutlass bearings too. Also put a new spare on for the next time.

 

[Partyoffive]

The nice thing about the tides is you can do it mostly by feel. It’s basically just cutting the old one out and slipping the new one in. It’s standing on your head that is difficult. And I wouldn’t want to do in the water.

If you’re going to pull the shafts, do the cutlass bearings too. Also put a new spare on for the next time.

 

[Partyoffive]

Thx. Anyone have any itemized guesstimates on haul, pulling shafts, replacing seals, cutlass bearings?

 

[KevinC]

Yes the change is easy on all videos IF you can get to the damn things! Ugh !!

Mine were buried up in the transmission. No access without dropping shafts. Plus access under vdrives is next to impossible.

I will also comment that my housing failed so doing this in the water would not have been possible.

-Kevin

 

[KevinC]

Yes the change is easy on all videos IF you can get to the damn things! Ugh !!

Mine were buried up in the transmission. No access without dropping shafts. Plus access under vdrives is next to impossible.

I will also comment that my housing failed so doing this in the water would not have been possible.

-Kevin

 

[KevinC]

Thx. Anyone have any itemized guesstimates on haul, pulling shafts, replacing seals, cutlass bearings?

If you want pricing details and a great mechanic to work with pm or call me. I will connect you. Sorry but will not post prices publicly.

-Kevin

 

[Partyoffive]

Mine were buried up in the transmission. No access without dropping shafts. Plus access under vdrives is next to impossible.

I will also comment that my housing failed so doing this in the water would not have been possible.

-Kevin

Thanks Kevin. Good info as usual. Much appreciated

 

[dtfeld]

A couple things to try, as nothing worse that an unplanned haul/block at the busiest time of year! Short of total replacement, this might get you a couple months or to the off season.

The tides seal (I'm assuming Tides) can wear a groove in the shaft, and by moving the seal even a couple mm fore/aft, you might get a better seal. If you have a spare, I would attempt to replace it, you might get several more years out of them. You can do it in the water, but if more comfortable, easily done on a short haul.

If you're going to dig into the shafts, as mentioned, you might as well do it right as most of the expense is labor, but there could be some unknowns. Items on my list from a couple winters ago.

Tides recommends a complete new seal (including new feed tubing). Roughly $1000 for 2 including new spare/carrier.
New Cutless Bearing roughly $150-$200 each depending on size
Check flange runout
Check shafts (recondition/ straighten as necessary) I found a lot of grooves on mine under the Tides seal.
Recondition the props (optional, but kinda like putting used tires/rims on your Lambo)! $500-$1000 each

Ball park to have it all done? $3k-$6k including parts

 

[Partyoffive]

A couple things to try, as nothing worse that an unplanned haul/block at the busiest time of year! Short of total replacement, this might get you a couple months or to the off season.

The tides seal (I'm assuming Tides) can wear a groove in the shaft, and by moving the seal even a couple mm fore/aft, you might get a better seal. If you have a spare, I would attempt to replace it, you might get several more years out of them. You can do it in the water, but if more comfortable, easily done on a short haul.

If you're going to dig into the shafts, as mentioned, you might as well do it right as most of the expense is labor, but there could be some unknowns. Items on my list from a couple winters ago.

Tides recommends a complete new seal (including new feed tubing). Roughly $1000 for 2 including new spare/carrier.
New Cutless Bearing roughly $150-$200 each depending on size
Check flange runout
Check shafts (recondition/ straighten as necessary) I found a lot of grooves on mine under the Tides seal.
Recondition the props (optional, but kinda like putting used tires/rims on your Lambo)! $500-$1000 each

Ball park to have it all done? $3k-$6k including parts

Thx so much DT...very helpful