Changing #7 spark plug. Can I shoot a Mercury engineer?

skibum

skibum

Well-Known Member
Jul 30, 2007
2,769
Perry Hall, MD
Boat Info
2005 Sundancer 260
Engines
496 Magnum HO
I decided to change my spark plugs (1st time since I had the boat - 2.5 seasons) Monday evening. I started with plug #2 which was no problem at all. Had to remove 1 end of seawater hose from exhaust manifold to get to #4 and #6. #8 was no problem. On the other side, #1 - no problem, #3 and #5 - remove other hose from other manifold, This ain't so bad. #7 - WTF? Why in the heck did they route the remote oil filter hoses like that? The fittings where the 2 steel lines change to rubber lines are directly in front of the #7 plug. I can't even pull the boot off of the plug. I removed nut from the stud where one of the steel lines is attached to the manifold thinking that I might be able to shift the line back enough to get to the plug. Nope. Line wouldn't budge. Went to put the nut back on the stud and dropped it under the engine. Called it quits for the night.

I want to finish that job tonight. What is the procedure requiring the least amount of disassembly to get to that plug? Looks like my options are:

1.) Remove bolts securing oil filter mount and with the nut that I dropped still off, hope I can shift the lines backward.

2.) Remove the lines at the remote oil filter adapter on the block, and hope that moving only the rubber portion of the lines will get the room I need?

3.) Some other method that one of you can tell me?

Thanks!
 
9mm or 380? I have either...........Oh, and my new xmas present 12ga Mossberg pump!!!
 
Get a 350MAG motor and you won't have that problem. That 496 is overkill anyway.:smt043

The approach you suggested is what I would try first. But never having to deal with this problem personally (my boat has the puny 350MAG), you might want to call your dealer and ask them what they do to get to that plug. Or, maybe one of the other guys with the really big boats that really need all the power of a 496 can help out.:lol:

Dave
 
Easy just use a double swivel socket they cost about 60 bucks from snapon they are a little bit of a pain but not to bad
 
Bank... I couldn't even get the plug wire off because the metal line to rubber line connectors for the remote oil filter were both directly in front of it.


Got er done last night. In order to do so, I had to:
  1. Remove 2 bolts holding p/s reservoir to oil filter bracket to let it swing out of the way.
  2. Remove 2 nuts/washers holding oil filter bracket to port manifold.
  3. Remove 3 nuts holding ECM bracket to intake and port manifold, and move ECM out of the way (left all wires connected).
  4. Remove nut/washer holding metal portion of remote oil filter line to rear of port manifold and work the little clamp off of the stud.
  5. Lift the oil filter bracket off of the 2 studs on the port manifold. This was a little difficult as I needed to use enough force to flex (but not bend) the metal lines a little.
  6. Push the oil filter as far aft as possible (about 3/4").
  7. Change #7 plug.
  8. Reassemble.
It only took about 30 minutes, but what a PIA. Next time will be quicker since I won't have to figure it all out again.

I hope this saves someone else some time & effort.

Maybe I need a new thread about this. After examining the situation, I realized that I would be better off without the remote oil filter setup. If the filter were on the bottom of the block, I would have no problem installing or removing it. I could easily get to it with either a strap type filter wrench or a cup type wrench on a ratchet if I had to. I never use tools to install an oil filter and rarely need them to remove one. I could easily access it by hand with it mounted on the block. Lots of room in the ER. Can the remote oil filter adapter be removed from the block and the filter screwed directly in its place without additional parts? Is there a down side to doing this? Can I cause any problems? Seems simple enough...

Dave - You're right. Next time I change plugs I am only going to buy 5 of them. I'll just leave 3 of them out and have a 5.06L V5. Should be good enough. I could remove the 3 unused cylinder intake valve rockers and run air hoses from the 3 empty spark plug holes to the Vacuflush and maybe save a few electrons next time I take a dump. :lol:
 
Last edited:
skibum What I have done in the past to other engines (But not on the 496 yet that I remember) Is I would just loosen up the oil fitting lines at the engine block just enough to safely rotate the oil line hoses just enough to get access to the spark plug.

And if it looks safe enough to leave the hoses in that position without any kinks, ect, Then that should make it easier for the next time.

You should check into trying that out before you remove the oil filter mount. Good luck.
 
I would think if the engine was running you may not be able to get off the pot after you flush from all that sucktion from a 496, mabey you can try that with a 350 first or youll end up with a giant hickey on your a**
 
Dave S said:
Get a 350MAG motor and you won't have that problem. That 496 is overkill anyway.:smt043

The approach you suggested is what I would try first. But never having to deal with this problem personally (my boat has the puny 350MAG), you might want to call your dealer and ask them what they do to get to that plug. Or, maybe one of the other guys with the really big boats that really need all the power of a 496 can help out.:lol:

Dave
Click to expand...

I thought this site made people smarter...but you're digressing...and I quote:
Dave S said:
"Planing issues with 2005 thru 2007 350MAG powered 260DA's ?
It's at times like this when I am sorry I do not have the 496 engine in my boat. :smt089"
http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3253
Click to expand...


Sorry, but I couldn't resist...:smt043
 
Boat Tech said:
skibum What I have done in the past to other engines (But not on the 496 yet that I remember) Is I would just loosen up the oil fitting lines at the engine block just enough to safely rotate the oil line hoses just enough to get access to the spark plug.

And if it looks safe enough to leave the hoses in that position without any kinks, ect, Then that should make it easier for the next time.

You should check into trying that out before you remove the oil filter mount. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Doh! :smt013

Now that you mention it.... That sounds like the option #3 I was looking for. I'm going to have to see if I can relocate the lines next time I am down there.

Thank you!
 
1956olds said:
I would think if the engine was running you may not be able to get off the pot after you flush from all that sucktion from a 496, mabey you can try that with a 350 first or youll end up with a giant hickey on your a**
Click to expand...

I was planning on taking Al Gore for a ride. When he sat on the head I was going to hit the throttle and see if it could suck his head out of his butt. :lol:
 
You are one BAAAAAAD man, Chuck. Using a mans own words against him...
 
Sheeeeeeeeeesh..................I guy can't crack a little joke around here without some people having to dig up old posts for a little revenge . :smt043 :grin:
 
skibum said:
You are one BAAAAAAD man, Chuck. Using a mans own words against him...
Click to expand...

Hey, we gotta defend our pride and joy...it's family you know.

Dave S said:
Sheeeeeeeeeesh..................I guy can't crack a little joke around here without some people having to dig up old posts for a little revenge . :smt043 :grin:
Click to expand...

The beauty and ugliness of the written word, it's there to haunt us...
 
Stray Cat said:
Chuck, how do you remember that stuff?
Click to expand...
I was on another post a last week pointing the OP to that thread for it's content and remembered seeing it.

Or I just spend too much time here reading.

You decide :huh:
 
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