CAT 3126s overheating/running hot after sucking up mud

Probably from multiple failed impellers over the years.

the why part will probably always be a mystery. Who knows, maybe they somehow got pushed upstream when you jammed the mud in, or higher pressure from restricted flow crammed them into the tubes enough to restrict flow

have you pulled the cap on the other side to this extent?
Yes, I pulled the port hex end cap when I replaced that impeller and found a couple of bits but nothing serious.
 
Look what I found today starboard engine which is the one still running hot

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Am76uVoXdqL5WjeY7

View attachment 132895

This is what you can see. When I pulled mine, there were more bits of impeller extruded up into the tubes, but the only way to get them out is to rod them out. If your getting back down into the normal operating temps, that can wait for another time.

As Carter mentioned, CAT changed the spec on the thermostats from 180, to 190. I changed mine to the 190 version, but kind of regret it. Runs fine, and no real world difference, but between the higher thermostat temp and a couple clogged HEX tubes, its just erodes the safety margin built into the "over engineered" CAT cooling system.
 
This is what you can see. When I pulled mine, there were more bits of impeller extruded up into the tubes, but the only way to get them out is to rod them out. If your getting back down into the normal operating temps, that can wait for another time.

As Carter mentioned, CAT changed the spec on the thermostats from 180, to 190. I changed mine to the 190 version, but kind of regret it. Runs fine, and no real world difference, but between the higher thermostat temp and a couple clogged HEX tubes, its just erodes the safety margin built into the "over engineered" CAT cooling system.

I’m in this conundrum too. I like the temp they run at but also suspect they’re original so I should really replace them.
 
I’m in this conundrum too. I like the temp they run at but also suspect they’re original so I should really replace them.
They are easy to swap out, but I'm leaving as is till the ELC is due for changing, which is spring 2024. I'm going back to the 180's. If they were good enough when new of the factory floor, I don't see a reason to change. Sorry Obama/EPA.
 
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They

They are easy to swap out, but I'm leaving as is till the ELC is due for changing, which is spring 2024. I'm going back to the 180's. If they were good enough when new of the factory floor, I don't see a reason to change. Sorry Obama/EPA.

I’m guessing we can’t find new 180’s anymore, right?
 
I purchased replacement regulators as part of my baselining but haven't replaced them yet knowing I'll have to replace the coolant as well.

@douglee25 I think it's time to boat again, port engine is still running just under 200, which is a little concerning since it used to run at 180° as well. I plan to pull the hex end cap on that one again this week just in case, I'll probably go ahead and barnacle buster flush it as well.
 
I purchased replacement regulators as part of my baselining but haven't replaced them yet knowing I'll have to replace the coolant as well.

@douglee25 I think it's time to boat again, port engine is still running just under 200, which is a little concerning since it used to run at 180° as well. I plan to pull the hex end cap on that one again this week just in case, I'll probably go ahead and barnacle buster flush it as well.
Keep in mind that a thermostat does not contribute to an overheating condition. It only regulates water flow under it's opening temperature. Once it is open it modulates the water flow through the engine to maintain correct temperature and correct flow rate.
Also, one thing about ELC is when it ages it forms a slimy coating on the engine internal surfaces that inhibits heat transfer.
 
Well said and agreed, my caterpillar mechanic brother-in-law shared the same with me when he was on the boat.
 

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