CAT 3126 - winter maintenance?

[markrinker]

So far my list is pretty short. Looking for input on anything I should be doing at ~500hrs to ensure a long happy life for my 3126s.

• Coolant levels look fine and appear bright pink and clean
• Oil level fine, change not required yet
• All strainers clean
• Water pump impellors will be replaced
• Annode replacement - should I individually 'test' them, or just replace everything with new at 12yrs old, regardless of condition?
• RACORs torn down and cleaned end of last season. Fresh 10mic filters. Plan to change after next tank of treated fuel, then do 2mic filters at each engine. Algae woes appear to be behind me after removing about 1/2 gallon of black slime from the bottom of the RACORs...600 quick miles with treated fuel and attention to filters seems to have paid off, without any drama underway
• Plan to wash and lightly re-oil intake air filters, crankcase breathers

Anything else I should be looking at this winter? Experienced opinions greatly appreciated!!!

 

[PMvdb395DA]

Always change your oil in the winter. It contains acids that can harm your engine...

 

[markrinker]

Hmmm...actually this is the first winter I haven't changed oil before storage, and also the first year I've owned diesels and had heated, dry indoor storage.

Rationale? Too few hours on since our August purchase to merit the expense of replacing that volume of oil. Also, the color/condition of the oil is excellent - it was completely translucent at 20hrs and just turning from brown to black from sooting at the end of the season.

As for the acids carried in the oil, I am aware they are there. How specificially can the engine be damaged? When you change oil, do you (or your shop) run up the engines to circulate the fresh oil before winter storage, or is the valvetrain still coated in the acid-laden oil?

Appreciate the observation, but I am planning on running this oil all next season, unless there is a very compelling reason to do otherwise. At this point, the best I could do is drain the old oil out of the pan, as there is no way to run up the engines to circulate fresh oil throughout...

 

[Sum Escape]

Change just before storage and yes, run engines to circulate new oil for a few minutes. I have a short run to the heated storage facility which I find ideal after the oil change. Now that you are out of the water, I see no compelling reason not to run the oil next season (assuming you do not exceed hours between change parameter). But then, I am not a diesel mechanic so the opinion is worth what you paid for it.....

 

[osd9]

So far my list is pretty short. Looking for input on anything I should be doing at ~500hrs to ensure a long happy life for my 3126s.

• Coolant levels look fine and appear bright pink and clean

Did you send coolant samples to the lab for testing? Do you know when it was changed last? You can't tell if coolant is good by looking at it. CAT recommends changing the coolant every 5 years. If you don't when it was changed last...change it.

• Oil level fine, change not required yet

Basically a repeat comment of above. Did you send oil samples to the lab for testing? CAT recommends changing the oil every 250 hours OR annually. I change my oil every year before winter storage. And yes, I do run the motors after I change my oil. It's the only way to really check the levels. I fill my oil filters before I install them, but I don't get the completely filled. Running the motor fills the filters and lets me get an accurate reading on the level.

• All strainers clean

Good... this is not just a winterization item...it's an all year round maintenance item.

• Water pump impellors will be replaced

When? I change mine, on average, every other year. I change them in the late spring. If you put on a lot of hours, or if you have bounced the bottom and sucked in any sand....change them first thing next spring.

• Annode replacement - should I individually 'test' them, or just replace everything with new at 12yrs old, regardless of condition?

You're joking right? 12 years on zincs!!!! I replace them once a season. You may want to check them mid season to see how they are wearing, but absolutely change them once a season. there are 11 in each motor and 1 in the genie. Don't forget the Hull and trim tabs zincs too.

• RACORs torn down and cleaned end of last season. Fresh 10mic filters. Plan to change after next tank of treated fuel, then do 2mic filters at each engine. Algae woes appear to be behind me after removing about 1/2 gallon of black slime from the bottom of the RACORs...600 quick miles with treated fuel and attention to filters seems to have paid off, without any drama underway

There's an old sage on the site that taught me to use 30 micron in the primary (racor) filters and the CAT 2 micorn for the secondary (on engine) filter. I change the secondary every spring. I installed vacuum guages on my racor housings and change them when the needles tell me.

• Plan to wash and lightly re-oil intake air filters, crankcase breathers

Anything else I should be looking at this winter? Experienced opinions greatly appreciated!!!

Transmission oil and filters
Flushing the heat exchangers with rydlyme
Checking/changing V-belts
Touching up any rusted areas in the paint
Tightening all hose clamps
Checking condition of the raw water hoses

 

[PMvdb395DA]

You asked for opinions... If you search here on oil change, you find the same advice about changing oil before storage.
But you have to do what you think is the best...

 

[sbw1]

Not sure zincs need to be replaced on his fresh water boat unless they show wear. It's not uncommon for zincs to last indefinitely on boats that are run in clean fresh water. I check mine every year and they still look like the new ones in the box. However, if you are in a marina with stray currents there can be issues even in fresh water.

 

[markrinker]

osd9 - Great info - thanks!!! I downloaded a CAT pdf today with service intervals for the 3126. Between your realworld suggestions, and the CAT requirements, I'll finish out my winter to-do list.

Not familiar with engine zincs, as I have owned gasoline powered 19' - 25' runabouts and single engine cruisers previously. My experience with diesels comes from John Deere tractors on the farm (4010, 4020, 4430, 4630) and 600K miles on Chevrolet Duramax trucks.

The former owner of my 410DA had CAT certified techs do his servicing, but their service records aren't very detailed, and I can't find any references to zinc or coolant maintenance - sooooooooo...it sounds like some fluid testing and examination of zincs are in order.

Question: Every fall in Minnesota, thousands of farm tractors, combines, construction excavators, end loaders, etc many with CAT power are parked for the winter, without oil changes. How does a marine engine (warm, dry, stored indoors) differ? I am certainly aware that annual fall oil changes eliminates alot of variables...but question the necessity of changes coordinated with haulout, rather than operating hours.

 

[my3sons]

I am not aware of any manufacturer that would condone running oil for more than a year, as you say you intend to, most change the oil in the fall before lay up so it doesn't sit in there and sludge up the galleries and etch bearing surfaces with contaminants etc.
It is too late now to drain it as it should be warmed up (read oil filter hot to the touch) before draining, that cooks off any moisture in the crankcase and gets all your nasties in suspension. Were it my boat, I would change it in the spring. If you want to "ensure a long happy life for your 3126's", don't sell yourself short on maintenance. The link below may help you with other maint. interval questions and give you a checklist of what you should be looking at this winter. It may be the one you downloaded earlier.
Congrats on your choice of a really fine boat with excellent power.
Happy new year.

http://oya.com/service/mechanical/3116_Maintenance.pdf

 

[fwebster]

Since you are new to Cat 3126 marine engines, you should be aware that the original fluid requirement as to lube oil was changed after the original manuals were printed and distributed with engines. The original recommendation was for 15W-40 DEO, but Caterpillar found that the viscosity additives were breaking down and plugging up the aftercoolers. Cat then changed the oil requirement to Cat SAEO (Special Application Engine Oil which is a synthetic packaged for Cat.) or single viscosity SAE 30 or 40 depending upon the ambient temperature where you are. There is a Cat publication describing the oil requirement for the 3116 and 3126 engines, but I don't have it with me or on this computer.

Cat also has an extender for their ELC coolant, but I don't use it. Once you reach 5 years, you can add the coolant extender, but you must then begin monitoring the SCA level in the coolant. The Cat ELC is superb antifreeze, is already diluted so there is no measuring or checking to get the mix right and eliminates the need for worrying about the SCA in the coolant. Just change it now and forget it for 5 years........and, never worry about cylinder cavitation.

You have a great boat and engines...........enjoy them.

 

[Turtlesboat]

I blow through generator zincs, probably every 30 to 60 days I put a new one in. Engine zincs vary, some last a long time, others not so long. If you don't pull them regularly, they'll get jammed up and you'll have a ***** of a time getting them out. I pull mine out about 3 times a year and clean the holes if I feel resistance. I can't tell you how much I hate spending a whole day trying to fish out stuck zincs. If you buy zincs from boat zincs.com, he over zincs the heat exchangers, I just checked with CAT and they gave me the correct size. I tap my zincs with a screw driver to tell if they are good. They shouldn't dent or break or crumble. Tap a new zinc and you'll hear how it should sound and feel. I also put a little dielectric grease around the threads so they won't seize.

To check belts, they should stick out a little above the pulley. If they are flush with the pulley, the belt and or the pulley is worn.

Check the coolant cap gasket and tank surface to make sure it's in good condition. This is a pressurized system and if it doesn't hold pressure then it compromises its ability to cool.

I now also give the engine sync cables a shot of grease once a year at the zirc fittings and check the governor rod resistance on the synchronizer while powered up and pressurized. I didn't even realize I had grease fittings until FW pointed them out to me.

Look for any drips coming from the hose that connects to the after cooler. If there are any or the turbos are discolored, your after coolers should be pulled and cleaned.

While you're crawling around, check all of your fuel hoses to and from the tanks.

Check the hoses to and from the hot water heater.

Look for any signs of dripping water from your water pumps.

 

[markrinker]

Since you are new to Cat 3126 marine engines, you should be aware that the original fluid requirement as to lube oil was changed after the original manuals were printed and distributed with engines. The original recommendation was for 15W-40 DEO, but Caterpillar found that the viscosity additives were breaking down and plugging up the aftercoolers. Cat then changed the oil requirement to Cat SAEO (Special Application Engine Oil which is a synthetic packaged for Cat.) or single viscosity SAE 30 or 40 depending upon the ambient temperature where you are. There is a Cat publication describing the oil requirement for the 3116 and 3126 engines, but I don't have it with me or on this computer.

Cat also has an extender for their ELC coolant, but I don't use it. Once you reach 5 years, you can add the coolant extender, but you must then begin monitoring the SCA level in the coolant. The Cat ELC is superb antifreeze, is already diluted so there is no measuring or checking to get the mix right and eliminates the need for worrying about the SCA in the coolant. Just change it now and forget it for 5 years........and, never worry about cylinder cavitation.

You have a great boat and engines...........enjoy them.

I came across this publication online - and noticed that the partial gallon of oil left onboard was Rotella 15/40. Personally, I won't use Rotella in my Duramaxes unless I am in a pinch, and an oil change is in my near future - i.e. topping off in Montana because I'm over a quart down after coming through the mountains in the heat of summer. My Duramax oil of choice is Mobil Delvac, with 10K oil change intervals, which for me is about every other month during boating season.

My plan was to switch over to the straight-weight next oil change. I'm thinking that change may be after the first good run next spring, rather than later.

I'm stubborn sometimes, but not stupid. Thanks for the input.

 

[markrinker]

I blow through generator zincs, probably every 30 to 60 days I put a new one in. Engine zincs vary, some last a long time, others not so long. If you don't pull them regularly, they'll get jammed up and you'll have a ***** of a time getting them out. I pull mine out about 3 times a year and clean the holes if I feel resistance. I can't tell you how much I hate spending a whole day trying to fish out stuck zincs. If you buy zincs from boat zincs.com, he over zincs the heat exchangers, I just checked with CAT and they gave me the correct size. I tap my zincs with a screw driver to tell if they are good. They shouldn't dent or break or crumble. Tap a new zinc and you'll hear how it should sound and feel. I also put a little dielectric grease around the threads so they won't seize.

To check belts, they should stick out a little above the pulley. If they are flush with the pulley, the belt and or the pulley is worn.

Check the coolant cap gasket and tank surface to make sure it's in good condition. This is a pressurized system and if it doesn't hold pressure then it compromises its ability to cool.

I now also give the engine sync cables a shot of grease once a year at the zirc fittings and check the governor rod resistance on the synchronizer while powered up and pressurized. I didn't even realize I had grease fittings until FW pointed them out to me.

Look for any drips coming from the hose that connects to the after cooler. If there are any or the turbos are discolored, your after coolers should be pulled and cleaned.

While you're crawling around, check all of your fuel hoses to and from the tanks.

Check the hoses to and from the hot water heater.

Look for any signs of dripping water from your water pumps.

I will add every single one of these to my winter punch list. THANK YOU.

BTW - there are nasty black oily drips below the hoses to the aftercoolers, and I noticed the starboard turbo is slightly tan colored...sounds like they are overdue for a cleaning!!!