Cat 3116 overheating. Can't figure it out.

dtfeld said:
Measure the belts...I wouldn't assume the PO had the right belts, or put them in the wrong package, mislabeled them etc.

I have the measurements somewhere...but it'll be tomorrow.
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I’d bet it’s in the wrong package. My PO had them all replaced and they put the old ones in the packages and stored them for backups, but they mixed up which ones went where
 
Strecker25 said:
I’d bet it’s in the wrong package. My PO had them all replaced and they put the old ones in the packages and stored them for backups, but they mixed up which ones went where
Click to expand...

Part number from the old one is 036-6775 DF 174:B7
Part number on the new one is 036-6775 DF 234:B2

I don't think the last bit of the part number makes a difference. They seem identical, but the new one is not going on. I am supposed to get it around the flywheel, pump pulley and tension pulley. I cannot get it around the flywheel and pump pulley even if I bypass the tension pulley.
 
wickedwheels said:
Part number from the old one is 036-6775 DF 174:B7
Part number on the new one is 036-6775 DF 234:B2

I don't think the last bit of the part number makes a difference. They seem identical, but the new one is not going on. I am supposed to get it around the flywheel, pump pulley and tension pulley. I cannot get it around the flywheel and pump pulley even if I bypass the tension pulley.
Click to expand...
I seem to remember that also on my 3116's. I had to get the belt around most and started around the largest pulley then with a socket and breaker bar rotate the engine to roll the belt into the pulley.... Then adjust the tension.
 
Just called the Cat store...
They gave me a part number 7E0744. The one that was on there was 036-6775 DF. Does anyone know what's right?
 
Go to parts.cat.com, and put in your engine model & serial number. Then you can look up parts. I use the Parts manuals section as it list out the parts in the group along with a graphic display of the components. I've found this to be 100% accurate.
 
I just put belts on my 3126s this morning. 036-6775 is the number. Put it around water pump, idler and as much as I could get on crank pulley then bumped motor and it was on. Clockwise rotation of course.
 
I put one on my C7 Cat (RV) and also had the same issue. Same part number as above 036-6775. I think the Dayco 17340 is the cross reference as well.
 
So, it overheated from a soft grounding and the marina decided to change the injectors as a fix? I assume that they knew how to properly set the overhead when they replaced them? Thats not a widely known procedure and there is special tooling required to do so.

-When was your coolant last changed?
-If you have the thermostat out, now is a very good time to put a new one in and change the coolant on both if it has been a few years.
-I rigged up a hose system that I can flush the heat exchangers and back flush if needed, mine looked clean but you would be surprised what comes out of it.
-Are all of the other coolers clean and unobstructed?
 
So a little update on my saga...

I replaced the belts (which is a story in itself, but it's done). The boat ran under full power for 4+ hours with no issues whatsoever. I scheduled a trip and 2 hours into the trip the engine pitch changed and that same engine started overheating. I throttled it down to idle, but it got up to 235-240. I shut it down after a minute or so of it being idle and motored back home under one engine. Once I got to my mooring I noticed the entire back of the boat covered in black soot.

This is on the 2 year anniversary of getting this boat. I'm just about ready to scrap it or sink it.
 
wickedwheels said:
So a little update on my saga...

I replaced the belts (which is a story in itself, but it's done). The boat ran under full power for 4+ hours with no issues whatsoever. I scheduled a trip and 2 hours into the trip the engine pitch changed and that same engine started overheating. I throttled it down to idle, but it got up to 235-240. I shut it down after a minute or so of it being idle and motored back home under one engine. Once I got to my mooring I noticed the entire back of the boat covered in black soot.

This is on the 2 year anniversary of getting this boat. I'm just about ready to scrap it or sink it.
Click to expand...

Maybe the boost hose cooked and blew? Any obvious signs of failure once it all cooled down?
 
wickedwheels said:
So a little update on my saga...

I replaced the belts (which is a story in itself, but it's done). The boat ran under full power for 4+ hours with no issues whatsoever. I scheduled a trip and 2 hours into the trip the engine pitch changed and that same engine started overheating. I throttled it down to idle, but it got up to 235-240. I shut it down after a minute or so of it being idle and motored back home under one engine. Once I got to my mooring I noticed the entire back of the boat covered in black soot.

This is on the 2 year anniversary of getting this boat. I'm just about ready to scrap it or sink it.
Click to expand...
Where are you located?
 
Don't throw in the towel yet............3116 Caterpillar engines are simple and not prone to catastrophic failures. Typically, most problems are simple and easy to fix, like your your overheat issue that was really just the water pump belt.......(I didn't say easy to get to!)

This isn't a boost hose issue ....if it were, the entire engine room would be black with diesel soot. But it could be a frozen or locked up turbocharger.

It sounds more like a seawater pump or impeller failure followed by overheating the engine. Start by removing the seawater pump cover and checking the impeller.

Also, in the future, one thing you never want to do is to overheat a diesel: 212˚F is the never exceed point. You are better off reducing the throttle setting when you reach 200˚ then continue slowing down to see if the engine temperature will stabilize at some throttle setting below cruise speeds. If it won't, you are better off shutting down an overheating diesel and coming home on one engine.

Good luck with it...........



Frank
 
wickedwheels said:
So a little update on my saga...

I replaced the belts (which is a story in itself, but it's done). The boat ran under full power for 4+ hours with no issues whatsoever. I scheduled a trip and 2 hours into the trip the engine pitch changed and that same engine started overheating. I throttled it down to idle, but it got up to 235-240. I shut it down after a minute or so of it being idle and motored back home under one engine. Once I got to my mooring I noticed the entire back of the boat covered in black soot.

This is on the 2 year anniversary of getting this boat. I'm just about ready to scrap it or sink it.
Click to expand...

As @fwebster pointed out, don't give up yet, and start with the simplest things first, the things that are easy to check and provide better idea of the issue.

Check the fresh water level, how much did you lose? Top it off.
Leave the pressure cap off for now.

Check raw water flow, pick the easiest raw water hose to get after the heat exchange or at the exhaust riser.
Take it off, cover the exhaust with some duct tape (keep any soot out of the ER) start it for a minute and check water flow into a pail or the bilge. You should get about 5 gal in a minute.

While running check the freshwater, is it pushing water out? Are you getting any bubbles, vapors?
Combustion gasses in the water jacket will cause overheating by both pressure pushing out the water plus the hot gasses. Mechanics have a special adapter and liquid that will detect any combustion gasses in coolant.

Soot is a sign of too much fuel and/or not enough air. By itself does not normally lead to overheating.
Frank is speaking to the exhaust side of the turbo that would let soot into the ER.
Ryan is talking about hose connectors on the compressor side between the turbo and the after cooler or air inlet, you would lose the boost air. An easy check.
 
hughespat57 said:
As @fwebster pointed out, don't give up yet, and start with the simplest things first, the things that are easy to check and provide better idea of the issue.

Check the fresh water level, how much did you lose? Top it off.
Leave the pressure cap off for now.

Check raw water flow, pick the easiest raw water hose to get after the heat exchange or at the exhaust riser.
Take it off, cover the exhaust with some duct tape (keep any soot out of the ER) start it for a minute and check water flow into a pail or the bilge. You should get about 5 gal in a minute.

While running check the freshwater, is it pushing water out? Are you getting any bubbles, vapors?
Combustion gasses in the water jacket will cause overheating by both pressure pushing out the water plus the hot gasses. Mechanics have a special adapter and liquid that will detect any combustion gasses in coolant.

Soot is a sign of too much fuel and/or not enough air. By itself does not normally lead to overheating.
Frank is speaking to the exhaust side of the turbo that would let soot into the ER.
Ryan is talking about hose connectors on the compressor side between the turbo and the after cooler or air inlet, you would lose the boost air. An easy check.
Click to expand...


Thank you.
I'll start checking the water flow. I already replaced the impeller. I saw coolant dropping slowly out of the heat exchanger, but while hot the tank was reading full. While off the indicator tank was empty for that engine, though the other engine had enough coolant to read "low". I took the cap off the overflow tank and it was full, though.

The kick in the pants is that I had 4+ hours on it since I overheated from a broken belt. It may be worth replacing the turbo just to eliminate that possibly. It has never been about saving money, but avoiding down time.

As for the other question... I'm in NY, on Long Island.
 
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