Can a Rookie remove an engine ?

businessjett

Member
Jun 10, 2021
79
Mooloolaba Sunshine Coast Qld Australia
Boat Info
2004 SeaRay 275 ( 260DA in USA )
#USSERR7124K304

5.0 Mercruiser Bravo 3 leg
Engines
2004 5.0 Mercruiser with Bravo 3
Serial No OM684005
My 5.0 Mercruiser needs a new transom assembly. Plus 2 fuel pumps. Mechanic quoted me about $4k in labour.

Can I do all this myself ?

Remove the engine, replace the transom assembly, replace both fuel pumps.
I have zero mechanical experience but seems I need to start to learn so I don't go broke.
 

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I don't see why not???? Youtube would come in handy and if you know someone with some mechanic ability to give you a hand that would be a bonus.
 
What's your skill level, how "handy" are you? Do you think you could swap out an engine in a truck?

Changing the transom assembly is a different story. Your going to need extended skills to do that correctly.

Question, is that 4K including parts?
 
No for $4000. While I encourage you to try it, be forewarned, it will be subject to many setbacks, defeats, frustrations, and eventual victory. Having a good set of tools will go a long way.
 
The trickiest thing about engine removal/installation is accessibility. In your case with a single engine, if the engine hatch opens completely to the transom the engine can be pulled forward a bit then raised vertically quite easily. A tractor with a bucket can be your friend! Youtube videos are available for all the engine disconnects.
 
You will need a hoist or a very large tree limb capable of lifting that engine high enough to clear the boat. A normal auto parts rental place won’t have that.

I have done this three times. It only takes a person with tools and a high attention to detail to pull and replace an IO system. I was fortunate that I have a friend with a shop and an overhead crane to help with lifting/setting. I was able to pull the engines, leave them at his shop. The rest of the cleanup/repairs I did at my house. I also have a shop full of tools, some marine specific, such as alignment tools, etc from 25 years if DIY on boats and cars.

You will have many corroded bolts and will possibly break a few bolts along the way. Your Y-Pipe will likely be corroded at the bottom from the leaking steering pin. Expect trouble getting those bolts out. It is cast aluminum so it may break. I got lucky and salvaged all mine but they need stripping to bare metal and repaint.

When you pull it all, you may find your transom rotted like I found on my 89. I had to rebuild my transom as part of the job. Never again!

Engine alignment is a critical factor when replacing the assembly. One - you can leave the forward engine mounts attached to the engine and pull the large lag bolts from the base to keep the original settings - that may help some.

Depending on your year model, you may be changing rear motor mounts to match your new transom assembly.

Finally, be very very careful when torquing your inner transom plate. The aluminum is thin and, if it gets out of whack or if you over tighten one of the bolts it could crack.

You will most certainly need a second person to help you install the new assembly. They are heavy and need to be inserted into the existing transom cut out straight while someone inside the boat gets the plate on and bolts attached.

Now - the steering system is another issue….

Can you do it yourself? Yes. There may be some costly experience you gain during the process that will, in the end cost you more than paying a qualified, ethical mechanic to do this.

If everything goes smooth to an experienced mechanic, this job can surely be done in one full day plus a half of another, probably less. However, I think he is pricing for expected problems, extensive cleaning and refurb, sourcing broken parts, etc. At 140 an hour a day and half is about $1600. Add a few bucks for two people and you get a $2000 labor/shop cost, minimum.

Did he also tell you it could be less?

You can search YouTube for Frisco Boater. Guy out of Texas documented his complete boat restoration including engine pull, etc. You will get a good look at the mechanics involved.

Note - if you end up doing this yourself, it will probably be done better in the end because you will take the time and carefully clean, scrub, restore, paint, etc everything along the way. The mechanic will yank that motor, slap in the new assembly, bolt everything back together, collect his money, and move on to the next job.

Think it over. Do your research and math. Bring your gut feeling back to us here if you need more consult.
 
This reminds me of when my dad removed an engine from a work boat when I was a kid, while it was still in the water. We hooked it to the dock lift, left to go get something at the hardware store, got distracted, came back and the engine was hanging in the air because the tide went down.

I don't know your mechanical skills, you say none, or finances, this is one I would gladly pay the shop to do. Especially if it means getting back on the water sooner versus later. And not having any breakdowns because I screwed something up.
 
What's your skill level, how "handy" are you? Do you think you could swap out an engine in a truck?

Changing the transom assembly is a different story. Your going to need extended skills to do that correctly.

Question, is that 4K including parts?

thats $4k is labour only. Parts here in Australia is about $6,500 :(
This reminds me of when my dad removed an engine from a work boat when I was a kid, while it was still in the water. We hooked it to the dock lift, left to go get something at the hardware store, got distracted, came back and the engine was hanging in the air because the tide went down.

I don't know your mechanical skills or finances, this is one I would gladly pay the shop to do. Especially if it means getting back on the water sooner versus later. And not having any breakdowns because I screwed something up.
 
thats $4k is labour only. Parts here in Australia is about $6,500 :(

So I grew up doing this type of stuff and still do all of my own work. The reason I asked the simple question(s) that you didn't answer. But ok.

I will assume you have the necessary tools to get this done, including jack(s), com-along(s) and not to mention a cherry picker or bucket machine to actually remove the engine. You will also need some specialized tools to align the engine and outdrive.

I am not familiar with how much room you have in the cockpit of the boat. But it may be possible to lift the engine and just move it forward, either in the engine compartment or lift up and out partially over the compartment and deck. Yes possibly leaving it suspended or sent down. Of course completely out would be best but that is not always possible. You only need to move the engine forward about a foot or so to make it easier to replace the transom assembly. And taking the exhaust manifolds off will give you more room.

Taking the drive off and apart and reassembling correctly with the right adjustments is a little tougher. Depending on the water damage parts of the transom may need to be fiber-glassed. After the transom assembly is replaced and the engine back in place, you will need to align the engine and upper housing of the outdrive correctly. That one usually takes experience and what to do and not do or you WILL be hauling the boat and replacing parts and/or fixing damage. That may require doing this all over again.

If you have never done anything like this before, this isn't the project to learn on, unless you have someone who has to help you. JMO, and I do know what this job entails and have done this before.
 
Remove it? Hell yes!!! Have it survive the removal and be in a condition to be reinstalled? Hell no.

And this is coming from a true rookie...
That’s hilarious. I wasn’t thinking that far ahead so I’m glad you reminded me it all needs to go back together
 
If you have never done anything like this before, this isn't the project to learn on, unless you have someone who has to help you.
He summed it up perfectly there. Sure, it can be done, but this isn't something to cut your teeth on. And, as @DWABoat mentioned, if you find any rot in the transom, you're really going to be hating life. As a mechanic looking to buy your boat, I would much prefer to buy it in an original state rather than after you'd pulled it apart and were selling out of desperation.
Now, that being said, swapping a transom unit isn't rocket science and is within the average mechanic's abilities. BUT, you need a complement of hand tools, torque wrench, some way to lift around 500 pounds of Detroit Magic Metal, plus a couple of other specialty tools. And, if you do find a rotted transom, that's a whole other can of worms, and you'll probably want the engine completely out of the way to do the repair work.
As @Jimmy Buoy hinted at, YouTube is your friend. Start out by spending an hour or so researching what's involved, then be very honest with yourself. If you haven't figured it out yet, BOAT is actually an acronym for Break Out Another Thousand.
 
#1 - Need the proper manual (and read it)
#2 - Need proper tools
#3 - Be patient and read the manual again if there are questions.
#4 - Mark EVERYTHING and take pictures
#5 - Keep safety in front of your mind. Some of this stuff can really hurt you.

Once on the hard, drive comes off pretty easily in less than an hour. I do it every fall and store drive in garage during winter.

Lifting engine, I have found, is maybe the hardest part of it all. A backhoe, bucket loader or even a tow truck with a boom on it are worth pure gold in this case.

Usually a 2 man job, so best to have your assistant be someone with a decent level of mechanical aptitude.

When I drove tow truck years ago, probably did 25 engine pulls / drop ins a year on the Mass South Shore. Even some larger boat engines, with boat in water, along a sea wall at 2 different marinas.

At one time, everyone that has pulled a boat engine, was a rookie.
 
So I don’t even own any tools. I suppose when the mech said it would be about $4k labour and almost killed myself

If that is the case then your going to spend almost half of the 4K in tools so you can do the job yourself. And your not even going to know what tools are really necessary. I feel your pain in what lies ahead for you with the boat.

You may want to cut your losses now. Or get the job done right and enjoy your boat all next season with a nice frosty beverage.

Good luck in your decisions.
 
if you just have to slide the engine forward, you could probably use an engine crane in the cockpit and lift the motor and roll the crane back a few
 
For a proficient amateur its surely a job which can be done but lets be serious :

when he says he has zero mechanical experience and not even a proper tool box i would say no - and encouraging him just to try might be expensive or even dangerous .

Imho a much better option would be to search for somebody more proficient and serve as a helper .
 

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